580 watts compared to 720 watts. So that's 140 watts less. Or 10 amps less at 14v. There are only 2 spark plugs instead of 4. So that'll save some. I used to think a normal 2 plug system took about 4 amps, but I kind of doubt that these stick coil systems take that much. Anyway it's a saving there. Let's say 2 amps. Halogen headlight bulbs take 4 amps each, but LED headlights (or driving lights) only take 1 amp each. So that 3 amps each saved for the two headlight bulbs or 6 amps total. Now we're up to 8 amps saved. And of course if you use LED driving lights instead of halogen, then you save another 6 amps. That would be a total of 14 amps saved over what was provided for previously when the high beam was on and the driving lights were being used. In total, the new bike as a system, has a 4 amp surplus over the old bike when just considering lighting and the ignition system. :)
Can you link to figures for the 1A per headlight? Current figures would have the actual light out put in lumens a fair bit under a normal halogen. Personally I think the LED lights will be neared 3A, more than happy to be proven wrong though. As I said earlier what if you don't have LED as many don't? They don't come with a bigger alternator to make up for it. Valid point about the 2 spark plugs that will save a bit but then you have the added synchro throttle bodies and all the other electronic stuff the older bikes don't have.
Adding to the subject: The GSLC not only has a new smaller alternator but also a new smaller battery (12 Ah). In spite of very likely differences in watt consumption of the new versus previous model, the major reason for a change in battery capacity and, therefore, alternator capacity is the new starter system that uses much less energy to start the engine due to the new decompression system. Although I find cjack's calculations perhaps too optimistic regarding LED consumption and Marki GSA more likely closer to the actual real value, the fact is that to know the real values one has to either measure them or get BMW's specs. The first are most likely easier to acquire... What I think we can safely assume is that there are at least 5 amps available to the user as this is the limit of the accessory socket and another 1 amp if one doesn't use the GPS and an additional (estimated ) 3 amps if one doesn't use the original auxiliary lights. Most likely there is more watt reserve available, however, how many extra watts are available is, without measuring or BMW's specs, a wild guess. Andre
The GSW alternator at 580 watts (is that correct?) supplies a whopping 20 watts less than my '05 which was rated at 600 watts. My '05 had power assist "whizzy" brakes that sucked up the juice. There was still plenty of power left over for halogen fog lights, heated gear, etc. I did not order LED lighting. It's not that important to me. I'll be moving the same halogen fog lights to the new bike. I expect to still have plenty of power left over for heated gear. More than I had with my '05.
You will this noise about 580 is just that noise ! I can remember my first car having 30 amp Generator, and those were the days when a valve radio was fitted ! Here we have a 48 amp Alternator @ 12 Volts , or 42 amp @ 14 volts . Have a look at some car specs and you'll find this alternator is as powerful.
It looks like BMW is thinking if they make the front of the new GSA "round" enough, it will roll right over and back upright again when you drop it. Would solve the problem of having to pick this beast up. Just spring load the windshield so it folds down out of the way...
Hmm yes your spot on, BMW were just playing with themselves when they increased the alternator output on the newer oil heads. It was obviously all just for show and or to rob their customers of a bit more hard earned. It's not a valid comparison in any way but my last couple of cars have all had 100A + alternators. I will bet your car didn't have 20A plus of computers and fuel system taking power. In fact I would say it was probably from the 70s at the latest so had very little of anything electrical. Everyone will come to their own conclusion and to most it won't matter at all. It might to those who have their bike lit up like a Christmas tree and use heated clothing though.
I am a little concerned about how long the OEM Anakee3's are going to last. As of now I've got 2k miles on them and with a longish trip starting next Monday (To Salem OR, a few day trips and then home). I'd expect to have close to what they can take. We'll see. FWIW I'm concerned enough that I'm riding one of the other bikes to work all week. On top of that the only people who appear to have these tires available are the dealers.
Oh, that's what is on yours? Spoke wheels, right? Tourance Next on my cast wheels. I recommend that you and anyone else who has a spare minute or agrees, go to the Metzeler "contact us" page and send them a note asking them to produce the standard Tourance in sizes for the R12GS-W wheels. I have liked those tires a whole lot and will be bummed if I must choose between a tire that wears out sooner or one hard as a rock like the 880. Oh look, here's the link: http://www.metzeler.com/site/us/about-us/contact-us.html
Revzilla.com shows available the Metzeler Tourance Next for $326 a set or Conti TA2 for $350 a set. Should be available at other mail order sites as well if you're into installing your own. I'm hoping to not need a set until next spring, maybe prices and selection will be a bit more reasonable by then.
I like the longevity that I've gotten from Tourances but I've always felt more planted in all situations (Rain, dirt, cornering, etc.) on the Anakee's. And these new 3's have performed flawlessly and predictably on the new bike in every situation. So I'd like to stick* with them if at all possible. * No pun intended. I've called some of my regular bike tire suppliers (Bike Bandit and Rocky Mountain) and they've stated that, since they can't get them yet, BMW dealers may have an exclusive on the rear (170/60-17) for the time being.
I have the Next on my bike, and compared to the Anakee 2's on my last three 12GS's, they are crap. The bike has done 4k now, and its nearly shot. The A2's would last between 7-8k. I'm torn between buying two Anakee 3's, but don't want to replace a hardly worn front tyre, but on the other hand don't want to give Metzeler any more money. Decisions decisions!
I will be buying Anakee 3s when it is time to replace the crappy Tourance Next's that came whit the bike. These are horrible on road snakes. If they even think that one is near they slip.
I'd love to be able to get tires that cheap in Australia ! We pay nearly double for a set of tires. I find 6,000 miles or 10,000 k's about the best I can get for my rear. I am unsure how the Next that is currently fitted will wear , but I have no issue with its road holding ability. Muddy road performance is not much better than normal road tires though.