Nice-looking bike. I bought similar graphics for my DRZ but have been reluctant to put them on because of the horror stories of what happens with these graphics and aftermarket tanks like the Clarke. Supposedly the slits help, but they still peel very rapidly. - Mark
Here's my SM. I haven't washed it in a few months, I'm the worst dad ever! Just picked up a set of dirt rims for it, need a front rotor and some tires and tubes. FMF Ti powerbomb exhaust FCR 39mm Twin Air Filter Moose SS brake line Pro Taper bars TT case saves Edge tail light Distanzia tires (best thing ever for this bike) Other stuff I'm forgetting
Hello all my wife and I just picked up two brand new 2007 drz400s. They are a great hop up from the KLR 250 we owned last year. I have a question could anyone recommend a set of bars for a guy that is about 6' 02" I would like something a little taller and a little more forward than the stock bars with out spending a ton of money. I realize that the answer is probably burried in this thread some were but I would really appreciate it if someone could share there expertise.
I am new to this forum and just bought a 2008 DRZ400S and plan to use it searching out trout streams in the Sierra mountains and to ride to work a few days a week. I did a few mods to it such as foot pegs, buddy peg eliminators and case guards. I have looked for several weeks, when I could, for a skid plate that bolts on with the original bolt holes but all I see out there are the ones that use clamps and I hear they are a PITA. I can't find anyone with a Whitebrothers plate or the other brand Paochow mentioned. I also would like to change the tank to a 4 gallon size but want one that bolts right on and not require me having to relocate the cooling fan or such. Can someone point me in the right direction...? PLEEEEEEEASE. Thanks, Dave
Welcome to the forum. There is a plethora of information available here and on thumpertalk about the mods you should do and the bash/skid plate. Here is the one I used. The Ricochet plate uses existing bolt pattern, and only 1 clamp for frame stability. Installs in just a few minutes. http://www.utahsportcycle.com/store/page165.html Put some cycra pro bend handguards on it and ride like the wind...
The Thumpertalk skid plate is decent, very HD, & uses original bolt holes to mount. It does use one clamp however, but is very easy to install. Same plate as the inmate above recommends, but you are supporting TT. I used a Clarke 3.9 gallon tank on my 2009 S model, fit perfect even with the Unibiker radiator guards & stock cooling fan. I went with the traslucent tank, as I wanted to be able to see how much fuel I had- not the nicest looking, but very practical.
IMO, these are the best out there for what you're looking for. Most block-type risers move the bars up, following the same line as the fork tubes, which moves them up, but also towards you. The pivot risers allow you to move the bars up and away. Pricey, yes... but much more comfy. I'm 6'2" and have them on my bike. Stock bars.
Interesting! I did not even know those existed. They're a tad spendy but look very effective. I like the fact that ROX also has a 7/8" and 1 1/8" setup (using a reducer) so I don't have to buy them twice if I decide to go with a fat bar. Thanks for the heads-up!
I have the White Bros plate and it mounts without clamps and works fine. Not sure it is very available these days though. - Mark
Thanks for they replies. Justgastanks is about 20 miles from me so I gave them a call. Looks like I might get the 4 gallon IMS tank with the shrouds built in. As for the skid plate info I want to thank you all for that informative tidbit. Looks like I will be ordering one from TT. I got their case guards already and they seem to ship out fast. Fast is good, very good.
Just so you know, the bottom of the IMS tank wings are below the level of the float bowl, so you end up carrying around fuel that you can't use unless you install a pump. The weight is low and forward, though...
The stock cables fit, but you have to be careful... I think I had to rotate the throttle around a bit to prevent revs from increasing at full steering lock. Definitely not a show stopper, but may require a little tweaking.
This evening I decided to change my oil, and when I took off the cover to the oil filter, the O-ring just suck to the engine side of it, and I left it there while I took out the filter, and when I replaced it I forgot to put the O-ring in the little groove on the cover, and guess what, it broke the o-ring. Supid mistake, but since I don't have one laying around I put some form a gasket on it, and when i started it up shortly after it leaked (suprise I know). The bottom seemed to be holding but not the top, so I took off the covor and got really generous with the formagasket, and I think it sealed okay this time. I have a couple questions- How long does it take to cure so I can test ride it before I go to school? Will it hold up untill I can get the proper O-ring, or disentigrate quickly and leave me stranded somewhere? Can I get an O-ring at an auto parts store? I can't get one online (I don't want to pay 6 bucks for a two dollar O-ring!), and while there's a suzuki dealership that should have one, it's a ways into town. Thanks for advice, I can't belive it did something this stupid!