In the photo below is a new and old filter. When I removed the old one I noticed there was no metal ring. Previous owner hack! I'd like to know if the new filter pictured can be installed "without" o-rings? There were no o-rings when I dismantled the pieces. Also, just to be certain, what is the sequence of install on the parts... filter, metal ring, white o-ring, gasket? Here is a so-so pic of the bike. A little over exposed on the bottom and under exposed on the top. The sun was streaming into my garage. Better pics to come. It's getting there.
I just did mine. Let me see if I have some pics that show any detail. Otherwise, it's: 1) oil filter goes in (I like to rub a little oil on the rubber gaskets and the o-ring) 2) metal "washer" goes onto the outer lip of the canister 3) white "o-ring" goes in 4) outer metal filter cover goes on Look here: http://largiader.com/tech/filters/canister.html Some of the newer bikes have a canister that does not require the metal "washer". See Anton's information
I have some pics starting with post #41 here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=818377&page=3 . Don't know if that helps.
Really need to know the year bike from the OP before giving advice. earlier models with the sharp-lipped canister need the metal, later with the rolled edge do not.
Perhaps you can tell me? I bought a new ring to install. Seems logical that I would need one with a gap at the opening of the canister wall, but this is new to me. The white o-ring that I removed looked "pinched" from this gap.
Yes! You need the metal "washer" placed onto the canister. This protects the white o-ring from being cut. Then place the o-ring onto the metal washer, followed by the outer cover.
Not exactly the same as yours as it has an oil cooler, but it's not THAT different either. Shamelessly stolen from Anton's excellent writeup on the subject. Go read it: http://www.largiader.com/tech/filters/canister.html and this... http://www.largiader.com/tech/filters/ When you're done reading those THEN go change your oil filter. RTFM, as they say.
Be sure to measure the canister edge depth to engine block face accurately with a depth gauge or like tool. Anton has a nice easy-to-read table regarding the shimming process. I prefer using Oak's 10% to 25% O-Ring compression formula. i.e.; O-Ring + Metal Shim - Cover Gasket (if used) - canister depth / O-Ring x 100 = % O-Ring Compression. Constants: O-Ring = 4.0mm Metal Shim = 0.3mm Cover Gasket = 0.5mm Canister depth = To be measured Any doubts regarding the dimensions of the above parts should be checked with a micrometer. You should only have to measure the canister depth once every few years since it shouldn't move. If less than 10% or more than 25% O-Ring compression; adjustments are needed. Remember the cover gasket for the 77 and later models is not used to seal the canister for external leaks. The O-Ring does the sealing and depending on your cannister depth measurement the cover gasket may not be needed. <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
I have been working on my R100RS Café Scrambler project and since I don't wish to destroy my bike during its first startup, I just want to be extra sure on how the filter set up goes together. Since I got the bike in pieces I never got a chance to see how the filter was set up in the first place. I just placed everything temporarily into the position I am thinking its supposed to be installed I also noted that the filter has a built on small rubber seal (that I assume) goes on the inside but no seal on the outside? And why not a gratuitous shot of the project so far. Thanks for any input you might have
