KLR650 Only Thread......

I think you meant to say too long not too short.

Its actually 08+ models.

Lets back up a little. 1st you tell us a few days ago that you can see oil in the sight glass(presumably the bike was vertical at the time) before your ride. If that were true (there would be 2 qts remaining in the motor), then adding 1/2 qt of oil would have brought the level up to full as the required amount is 2 1/2 liters. You say you added 2 qts? If that is correct then you would have had 4qts + in the motor? No wonder the motor puked the excess out through the oil drain that comes from the air box.

You dont say that the motor was not running well -if so then you have dodged a bullet and avoided serious internal damage.

Are you viewing the sight glass with the bike on the side stand or with it vertically? If the bike is on the side stand the sight glass should be empty when the correct level of oil is in the motor. Reading the oil level with the bike 100% vertical is essential. Then if the oil is not hot, wait 30 minutes for the oil to stabalize before reading the level..

At home I park the bike in the same place on its center stand. Read the oil level after an overnight drain down. That way I have a constant. On the road if the ground does not appear level, as long as the oil is high I dont mind. If in doubt, out comes my 2" level. Also, when hot the oil will read slightly higher.

Sounds like your brake pads are now oil soaked. You must replace them. sounds too like you have a good cleaning job ahead of you too.

I have, but not as bad as the 08's did. The reason for the 08 piston and ring design change was oil usage at the higher rpm and ring lands breaking. And when a land broke, there WAS oil usage!

Jeff, if you were supplied with EBC HH pads, they will score the rotor quite badly. Many of us have Galfer Green pads that do not score. They are soft and wear quickly, but still give good braking. Do you have a SS brake line? That will make your smile even wider!

When last did you service the forks? I do mine every 20k miles. Which year bike? Oil level not correct etc can make a big difference. Changing oil viscosity and a fork brace do wonders too.

Have a stroll on over to some of the other KLR forums. A lot have reported oil burners, mine burns a little bit of oil.

That.

Like any new or new to you bike, you should keep an eye on the oil level. I did that for the first few oil changes on my '07.
Mine does not use, burn or leak oil. I have road tires on my bike and have other bikes for any hard core off road.
So my KLR never gets punished unless you call running 75/80 mph on the highway punishment.
Now the only time I do a precise oil check is when I change it. I'll take a glance every once in a while for safety.
I drain the oil hot and let it drip all night, refill with the engine cold, right to the top mark, bike on the center stand.
For the most part I have a KLR I never have to worry about oil level.
26,000 miles on the bike. I change the oil every 1500 miles and the oil filter every other oil change.


Here's 6 KLR's, none of them use oil.

whoops. Yep, I did.

REALLY?

Haven't noticed many Generation 1 owners complaining of oil-burning.

Certainly, excessive oil consumption was not reported as a pandemic major issue until release of the '08 models, as I remember history.

Then again, I wouldn't be surprised at ANYTHING found on, "other KLR forums."

Yes, the kit came with EBC pads....will keep an eye on the rotor, thanks. Not installed yet, But SS brake lines are in the works.

I doubt if the forks have ever been serviced. Its a 2006, that I bought used a couple weeks ago with 4800 miles on it. Has 6000 now. Given that I'm 235 lbs, and will occasionally be running it loaded pretty well, odds are its under sprung. My experience with other Stone Age damper tube bikes, has shown me no amount of magic oils/springs, will control dive like emulator/intimator type valves, or better yet, cartridge style guts. It came with a fork brace on it, which is nice. As a cheap temp fix, I do plan to replace the oil with something a little heavier, and put longer spacers in, to increase preload, so that sag is correct.

Jeff

Any of you guys have any valve shims to sell or swap? I need 2x235 and 2x255s. I ordered from Mike but he's still moving his shop so it's bomb to be a while. Pm me thanks!

Was this on certain year Gen I models?
I've never burned as much as a drop on my 99, regardless of how I rode.

Hmm... I see you have an 04. I wonder if this issue started during certain model years.
Hopefully your issue won't get worse.

It is my understanding that it applied to Gen 1 pistons as they were breaking lands. Whether it applied only to certain years of castings, I do not know. It was enough of an issue for them to change the design. As soon as the Gen 2 pistons were available they changed the P# and the Gen 1 pistons were no longer available. Then in early 09 they changed them or the rings again. I have not had need to nor seen or compared those to the previous generations as by then had gone to the forged 685..

'06 non oil burner with 6k miles! I hear it is a roll of the dice when you get above '01.

Rocky Mountain ATV can get them to you in a couple of days.
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/

2001,23800miles and only burns about 200cc between 2000 mile oil changes

If you have a bmw dealer near you, the shims from a K75 are the same--and they are cheaper, believe it or not.


jim


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Thanks Tsotsie. I appreciate it.

I wouldn't be so sure it'll take too long. I just ordered some filters, gaskets and stuff from him on the 9th or 10th and when I came home Friday it was in my mailbox (and I'm in MI).