The CRF250L Owners thread

... what would gives almost the same gearing reduction but at the added cost of a new chain, as 13/42 allows you to keep the stock chain.

L

The XR650L rear sprocket is also commonly available with 48 teeth.

In addition, the PBI C/S sprocket for the CBR250R/XR250R is available in sizes from 12T-15T.

http://shop.pbisprockets.com/product.sc?productId=69&categoryId=20

Therefore, one could also employ a 48T/15T sprocket combination instead of a 13T/42T sprocket combination.

However, I think a 45T rear sprocket is a good choice. For technical off road riding one could employ the stock, 14T front sprocket with the 45T rear sprocket. Then, one could easily swap a 15T, PBI C/S sprocket for lower rpms during extended street riding. The larger sprockets reduce wear on both sprockets as well as the drive chain, thereby extending the service life of all three components.

Spud

Yes, that's true. Therefore, it would be best to switch to a 45T rear sprocket after one needs a new drive chain.

Spud

Yup ... but let's wear the stock chain with a 13/42, then use the stock 14t contersprocket w/ a new rear sprocket and a longer chain

Thats economy

L

Another factor to consider is possible interference with the chain guide and/or chain guard when using 45T, or larger sprockets. Also, the larger sprockets might cause accelerated wear of the chain guide slipper, part #9 in the following diagram.



Spud

If one wants a 13T C/S sprocket, I can also recommend the Primary Drive C/S sprocket for the XR250R. These excellent C/S sprockets only cost $8.99.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/44/54/226/957/618/2105/Primary-Drive-Front-Sprocket

Spud

This chain guide slipper have to be reversed when using a 42t.
I guess i would simply remove it with a lager sprocket, unless i can find a suitable aftermarket part.

L

You wouldn't really need a whole new chain. You could get another master link and add enough links to make it work. I have run chains with 2 master links many miles with no trouble. Plus, it makes it easy to switch back if needed.

True

I didnt even consider this, because were I live, chains have to be riveted (by law).

Not that can't be done, but put aside, the 13/42 w/ stock chain is a "no brainer"

L

I completely removed the chain guide slipper on my XR650L. The chain guide slipper is installed to prevent the drive chain from leaving the rear sprocket. My XR650L has greater suspension travel than the CRF250L; however, I have been riding the last 16,000 miles without any drive chain problems. Nevertheless, a more "spirited" rider might derail the drive chain if he removed the chain guide slipper.

I also removed the chain guard, since I don't carry passengers on my bike. Drive chain maintenance and rear wheel maintenance are much easier after the chain guard and the chain guide slipper have been removed.

Spud

I guess I didn't realize this......if I ever read about it, I had forgotten!

So you just unbolt the slipper and flip it over with the beveled end now on top and facing the rear?

I dont remember ... but just unbolt it and you'll figure out :huh

L

No, if you turn the chain guide slipper upside down, it will wear very quickly. I think Krono rotated the chain guide slipper 180 degrees, so it did not extend so far from the rear of the chain guide. I imagine a larger rear sprocket will rub the extended rear of the chain guide slipper, unless you rotate it.

Given the way I ride, I would just remove the chain guide slipper entirely. However, I don't jump my bikes, et cetera. A very aggressive rider should keep the chain guide slipper; otherwise, he risks derailing the drive chain.

Spud

Looks like things are moving along over at Scott's...

http://www.scottsonline.com/Stabili...=6329&Year=2013&Size=250&Fred= L&BI_ID=243800

I didn't see any grease zerks on the parts diagrams for the CRF250L. Did I miss them?

Spud

No, you didn't miss them..Honda's been missing them for a long time..my 1996 XR400R had none, and what a frikkin mess there when the swing arm pivot bolt siezed onto the inner bushings that the roller bearings ride on. Took 40 hrs plus a new swing arm to fix

a set of instructions to add them would be a wonderful thing .....I've got a set of instructions to do my KLR....before spring

All this talk about sprocket swapping prompts me to share a bad experience. I have had numerous hondas that have the same spline arrangement for attaching the countershaft sprocket to the output shaft. Cheap sprockets have VERY poorly made internal splines that are very prone to wobble around on that shaft....and promptly destroying the spline on the output shaft....the fix involves $$$ parts, splitting the cases, and lots of labor. Do yourself a favor....only use Renthal or factory Honda countershaft sprockets...might cost $10 extra...but cheap insurance. I think it was mentioned that Honda XR250R, maybe XR400, or XR600R probably fit the CRF spline...I think...but am not 100% sure that these bikes have different tooth count sprockets available in the Honda parts books. I have all sizes from 12 to 16 for my XR400R (Renthal brand)...but haven't gotten to test fit one on my new CRF.

ALSO...my ride buddy has a WR250R Yamaha and had some really UGLY wear on his C/S sprocket...took the tips of the teeth right off. Turns out the stock sprocket has a big rubber step on either side of the sprocket to reduce chain noise....well, the chain side plates hit that rubber, and keep the chain from setteling into the channels between the teeth and causes bad sprocket wear. I believe the CRF has similar rubber moulded onto the C/S sprocket. Cut it off or just get a different sprocket (without that rubber)...even if you plan to keep the 14T stock sprocket

There are folks that are spending BIG bucks on rear shocks for the CRF. Certainly many of those folks ride hard enough to be able to feel the improvement and appreciate it. I'm older, and my old ass can appreciate selected improvements, but my wallet appreciates a good price.. Example in point is my 2009 KLR650...a bike with a supposedly "non-rebuildable" shock, that had waaaay too much rebound damping. To aggravate that, us normal mechanics couldn't even remove the KLR spring (fortunately the CRF springs appears to be removable, with a real threaded preload adjuster). I was able to get the KLR shock modified for a little over $100....and the difference is frikkin' amazing. The high buck suspension shops don't like to piddle with these sorts of low $ jobs. Has anyone looked at the CRF manual and the shock to see if MAYBE the shock is rebuildable/revalveable...or has taken it to a reliable shock shop for modification? The guy who did my KLR shock was SLOOOOOW....so I have no plans to go back to him...and I have no clue what mods the CRF shock needs anyway.

just looking at the shock section in the manual now...pretty much NO info. on any rebuild-able procedures, other than inspect damper rod, damper unit and bushing...and upper and lower torque specs, of course.....and a 1/3 page of Shock Absorber Disposal...that pretty much sums er up

Those who have thoughts about radiator protectors that are ROBUST, drop over to www dot rickramsey dot net....and scroll around and find his pictures on installing a VERY nice one...it's got some transverse stiffeners that give it some crush strength