Hi Jeff, I think you might want to start by comparing the part numbers for each of the models you reference using the spare parts catalogs. These will also provide you the part numbers for the bearings and seals. FYI, I've been very pleased with the quality of the wheel bearing/seal kits from All Balls Racing (available directly through them or from many online stores). You can source the bearings and seals separately through a local supply house, too. Hope this helps! Regards, Gregory Bender
The bike is in 1.7 million pieces right now. I've been building a work bench from scratch to take my mind off this god-forsaken bike. (yes those brackets are handmade from 1/4" steel and welded in the corners to prevent wobble) Since I moved out here to the ranch in December I haven't had a workspace for my gunsmithing/reloading (my father-in-law's shop is pretty cramped as you can see in the pics) so I started building a bench from scratch to take my mind off this godforsaken DR. All I'm missing is the pegboard for the back, stain and sealant then I'll have my own work area for tinkering. The Husky will be in on the 15th. I have the feeling once I can ride a dualsport again my nerves will be a little better. I've been on swing shift this month so I haven't had a chance to pop open a beer and calm my nerves to take another look at the DR. I do have a wire brush and some rtv for putting it back together. So maybe next week I can start reassembling the jug/head/cam/gremlin factory and still try to see what caused it to run so rich. I've been going through dirt bike withdrawals... shakes, irritability, 1000yd stare, and I'm constantly dreaming of that Terra 650. At this point, I really couldn't give a rat's ass about the DR350 or whether it gets turned into a parts bike for Ebay. If it does, you guys have first dibs on the parts. I already have the new Acerbis tank off and my rack with the ammo cans removed.
Don't think you need to connect the wires. You might have a bad flasher or connection somewhere. Check the connections on the LEDs. They have to be +to power and - to ground. What's funny is, I went out last night to check mine to see if I could see any glow from the left signal (bulb type clearance lights) when the right one was on. No glow, but what's weird is the indicator doesn't work unless the motor's running. This one looks pretty close (except for wire colors). Probably don't need the resistor on the indicator if you aren't using an LED. http://www.google.com/search?q=Led+...ton.com%2Fled-turn-signals-t6679.html;821;390
i hope rugged ex gets the bike back together but if it goes to parts dibs on tanks rack and ammo boxes!
Yes, they did from 90-96 on the street legal models. This was covered earlier, 97-99 SE models do not have cush drive.
If you have the spares there, you can just test fit them to your bike. Should take less than 10 minutes to swap a front wheel. They should fit on there just fine.
Cool, got it all figured out. just traced power till I found the problem. It was at the signal connections. Turns out I was crazy in assuming green was ground and black w/ white tracer was hot. Safe to say it was also the indicator since I had also tried reversing the connections beforehand.
Anyone have a stock muffler laying around they'd part with for cheap? I don't care how beat up as long as its quieter than the godforsaken aftermarket pipe that's on my dr right now.
Lookie here. I was concerned about doing some fork seals, bushings and oil change on my 49mm twin chamber showas. Been looking for another pair to work on in case the job took longer than I thought or ran into problems and/or messed up. Found this pair on ebay. They are super clean, and have good seals. I guess I will jsut slap these puppies in and run them. Came about to be about the same cost as a set of seals, bushings, driver, and oil. Sweet!!
Here is one,but it is not cheap: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1994-SUZUKI...Parts_Accessories&hash=item589b92e176&vxp=mtr These stock mufflers seem like they are in short supply. THe first thing most poeple did to mod their DR's when new was to throw on some loud muffler. These people most likey jsut hucked their stocker thinking that there was no value in them. 20 years later the DR350 riding crowd is no longer the loud muffler type.
HI Guys, Ive looked to this thread for answers to my questions... but here is one I am stumped on... When I push the rear break leaver, it doesnt return, it almost gets stuck down and I have to push it back up with my foot. Ive just replaced the break fluid (after it had been in there for well over 2 years!) and I am a bit hesitant to pull apart my piston without knowing why it is doing this. please note: I chewed through a set of break pads in a couple of months when the first set lasted almost 2 years! Does anyone know what is happening with my bike?
Hi Danielle, Remove the rear brake lever and see if the shaft is gummed up. Hopefully this is the problem because a quick clean and lube of the pivoting shaft is really easy to do. If that isn't it. you'll want to determine if it is the caliper or rear master that is hanging things up. BTW, I'm very much enjoying your blog as I am slowly catching up with where you have been :> Regards, Gregory Bender
Thanks Gregory! I just had the leaver off when trying to sort out the problems with the clutch... it not the cleanest (and I was too lazy to clean it at the time) but it is ok and its not enough dirt to foul it up. to me it seams as if the piston is not pushing back out... but but I really dont want to pull this all apart!! Just replacing the break fluid was drama enough - the valve screw was completely jamb up and took some gentle persuasion to come un-done! Im also searching on the net... at least its usable just not ideal. As for the blog... well I am glad you a slowly catching up as I am slowwwwlllllyyyy adding blogs. I am so so far behind! I really need to have a sit down and have a write session but work and bikes come first then a blog! Do I have it in the right order?
I would have that the pivot shaft was gummed up as well. Someone did this to help prvent it: I would remove the bolt/connection between brake lever and the master cylinder. See if the MC moves freely. Are you thinking the piston at the caliper is not returning. Even if it was stuck the brake lever should be returning.
Ok - dont laugh.... But seeing your picture made me realise I was missing a few things! Like the nice wee little grease nipple and the more important the spring! I wonder what country ended up with that spring! Right - I guess I am off to the bike hospital here in J-burg to find me a replacement spring!
The grease nipple is a modification to keep the pivot, pivoting freely. DR's don't come with it stock. The "return" spring however is something that you need.
Thanks a lot - tntmo But I fear posting them to South Africa is a bit of a long stretch... they many never arrive or just take too long. Im sure I can find one at the Bike Hospital - Johannesburg equivalent to a bike wreckers or for me bike haven!
