990 Mods for Offroad

Cool! Thanks.

Jeff;
You can ground the green wire coming from the SS switch. The engine will start & run but the neutral light will always be on.
The magnet is not embedded but attached to the side stand with two 5MM bolts.
On my 990 I've unbolted the safety switch, glued & tapped the magnet to it and tucked it out of the way.

Richard

Thanks, Richard !!
Good info to know, for the next time I need it.
I do like the safety switch being there.

So lots of bike work planned over the next few weeks and so far I haven't strayed too far from my plans. I discovered that my bike has 17/42 gearing...guess the previous owner did a lot of highway miles. I've got a new 16/45 set-up that I'm eager to try. I picked up a set of SW Motech pegs that are 15mm lower than the stock position. My fork and shocks are heading South to Konflict Motorsports this week to get re-worked. I picked up a bunch of other stuff to do a cannisterectomy and a CJ side stand relocator.

And I came across this pic in the hall of wisdom and thought I'd stir up the debate again over the mid-supports for the 990 skid plate.

<a href="http://s910.photobucket.com/user/Kel_ds/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2014-02-17-23-16-34_zps83b9bad2.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://www.advrider.com/advrider-photobucket-images/images/K/Kel_ds_Mobile%2520Uploads_Screenshot_2014-02-17-23-16-34_zps83b9bad2.png" border="0" alt=" photo Screenshot_2014-02-17-23-16-34_zps83b9bad2.png"/></a>

Fabrizio Meoni's bike. Maybe I'll leave middle mount on........

I don't think anyone's suggesting the midmount is less secure and obviously case damage resulting is probably rare. Bottom line, Meoni had someone who'd pay for new cases in this rare event no questions asked, you probably don't (insurance notwithstanding). It's your $$$/decision.

I agree that the cost of a new motor was probably not much of a factor. A cracked/broken case would probably end a race, which you'd think would have been the best reason to avoid making a modification that would increase the odds of a failure happening.

That said, I'm still on the fence.

That would seem to be the most pragmatic "fix" for this problem. I bought the rubber loop thing for £2.50, (less than $4). I just can't figure out how/where to attach it to the bike

Do you have a pic?

Have you seen these http://www.radegarage.com/2013-08-01/under-seat-rear-tank/

That looks like a carbon skid plate so the centre mount is probably there to help stop it flexing to much (was it just a flat plate?). There also looks to be a rubber mount between the bracket and the carbon.

Steve

I want to get a few people interested in one of these tanks not for fuel, but for water. (difrent plastic)
With the Safari tanks I have enough fuel range, but would be handy to have 7.5 Lts of water stored towards the center of the bike and not in the bags.
Anyone interested?
PM me.

I thought about those for awhile, but decided on an underseat storage tray. I can carry water elsewhere the odd time I need it, same with fuel (adv tank planned + I've got a couple MSR bladders). I guess If I lived where it was hotter/dryer for more of the year, my priorities would be different.

Meoni's skid plate was carbon fibre. Most upgrade plates are steel. Its a bit of a different story because steel doesn't flex as much.

There are two steel oil pipes running under the case that are the closest things to the plate. They can flex a bit but not much. Make sure your plate won't touch them.

My plate (rugged roads) which I love, had a screw right under one of the oil lines and slowly punched it. But since it was an intake I just tapped it and rode it for couple of week with very little leak.

So my suggestion is, test your plate by putting your whole bike's weight on it. Also inspect the rubbers on the rear mount points, they wear out, and bring the plate closer to the case. Get cheap ones from Canadian Tier.

Sent from my LG-D803 using Tapatalk

Unfortunately, I found the limits of the stock front rim last weekend, so a new steering damper has slipped to 2nd place on the to-do list.
I'm looking at either a 1.6" Excel A60 or a 1.85" Excel Takasago. Both would be with a RAD hub, heavy duty spokes etc. I'll probably replace my stock rim with a new 2.15" and use that wheel for touring, so the Excel one will be for mostly for offroad.
1.6 or 1.85? Anybody have any thoughts either way (I'm running Michelin Desert front and will probably stick with that choice)?

Also, I've updated to top post to cover off the mods that I've got done so far. Big thanks to rburkat for sharing shop space, help and 990R knowledge to get the majority of them done.

How bad of a hit did it take Kelds and did it just get a wrinkle or go full Taco?

Sorry I don't have insight on widths for you but I'll let you know if I make up some more fork guard adapters ( saw that on your list of things to do) as I think another buddy at the coast is toying with the high fender. Nothing elaborate but tougher than just elongating the plastic and hoping they stay in place.

I didn't notice any particular hit and it's not fully screwed up, just enough to make it shake and vibrate on the road.

I cant find those carbon fiber tank guards anywhere... can some one point me in the right direction?

http://www.carbon-performance.com/index_eng.php?kat_id=57

if you can't find them states side....

I destroyed a 2.15 excel rim that had superlace and RAD hub. Surprisingly with couple of dents it held true for a long time. May be the stronger spokes helped.

I just got a new 1.85. Excel from woody and transformed the hub and spokes to it.

At the end of last summer I ended up having to ride with my original softy softy BEHR 2.15 rims BUT even riding hard on trails did not put a dent on them, because I had made adjustments to my suspensions. Stock springs.

Go for a ride alone with a small flat screw driver handy and play with the compression and damping. The best rims can be bent with bad suspension settings.