TuneECU for 990 - got tunes?

I was hoping not to have to pay for a custom tune, but it is probably worth it in the long run. Can anyone recommend a tuner in CA. I live about 2 hours North of LA, along the coast.

Thanks

Don't that figure. I posted in the West forum to see if any 990 owners wanted to share the cost of renting a dyno in LA and got no takers. Decided to just go pick my bike up and take it to Sac for the testing I need to do.

So it should be for less than 3000rpm.

After running the 2007/2011 hybrid map and being dissappointed by the MPG, i went back to the stock 2007 map with 10% min opening on the 2nd throttle and the O2 sensors off. It runs great, the best running setup to date, i can live with this, i guess I can stop looking at BMW's.... I haven't had time to check the mpg but i am not expecting a lot, but it would be nice to get into the 30's.

This leads me to believe that the real issue with these early FI 990's has to do with the feedback control system for monitoring the exhaust gases. The sensor read too rich so less gas is dumped in then it reads too lean so more gas is dumped it, hence jerky/snatchy throttle. I am probably just restating the obvious.

DirtClaudeKilly,

Excuse me for asking as you probably have already said...What exhaust cans are you running and what map is the hybrid map you are using? Please list the TuneECU # or name.

I have 990 adventure 2008 and have ordered the cable from CJ and I will be tuning soon. Much to learn:)


Edit: tahoeacr, Please let us know who you go to for the dyno in Sac...I'd join you if possible with my 08. I'd be ready by the middle of March as I have surgery Jan 30. for a shoulder (not major)


Thanks gentlemen KJ

I'm going to go to a dyno in Carmichael that isn't open anymore. I use to work for them so I have a little juice. Usually I use Brian at SPO. He is moving his dyno right now so it is out of commission until Feb.

http://www.splreno.com/index.shtml#

I am sure in March I'll have something to dyno.

For me and my 08 the best map package has been the AKRO map WITH the O2 turned ON. If I am easy on the throttle I'll get 35MPG, If I ride spirited in the twisties I get 30, and in the dirt about 28 (fireroads).

I have Remus cans and they work well with the AKRO map and O2 turned OFF however the mileage is 28-32 at best.

I have been playing with TuneECU for a year now and have come to the conclusion to get the perfect map you probably need to hit the Dyno.

I is a great program that can help get rid of the twitch and pause though...

After custom map I got between 36 and 43 MPG depending on the hard/soft riding

It was worth the money!

KJ, I have the stock cans, the hybrid (for lack of a better name) is a custom made using the values from the 2011 file copied into the 2007 file - this was suggested by someone earlier in this thread.

Thanks Dirtclaudkilly,
and to answer your question about a tuner in California... I found a recommendation<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
from Powertrip. Any one use this shop? KJ

JT&S Performance (http://www.jtsperformance.com/), Infineon Raceway Sonoma CA<o></o>
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From Triumph foram<o></o>
http://www.triumph675.net/forum/archive/index.php/t-50266.html

I've used his services on my track bikes a couple times. Good results and good tuner. That said, it was a mobile service in his truck (nothing wrong with that) but time was limited. A good tune on the 990 will take time...

I modified minimum 2nd throttle opening at 14%. I have difficultry in morning low temperature start up. Would you guys think it could be the reason?
Cheers.

My guess would be you are running too lean. If you think how the system is actually working with the 2nd butterflies open you are allowing more air into the mix, which means you are running leaner. If you think back to carburated bikes (or any engine for that matter) you usually have a choke switch on them. Which essentially closes off the air like the 2nd butterflies do. You run the choke when cold and then turn it off after the bike is warm.

This is assuming that all you did was change the 2nd butterfly values and not the fuel tables.

Try adding in 5% increase to the L tables at 0 throttle and 0-2000 RPM (basically idle). If you have your O2 sensor turned off then you may need to do the same on the F tables.

Hey everyone,

Perhaps I have missed something and someone can point me in the correct direction..... I have read the manual, messed around in the program (running v2.0.0.3), changed the external file from comma delimited to tab delimited..... and it still will not allow me to "Paste" these values into the selected table. I can however say copy the F1 table and paste it to the F2 table (not that I want to do that). Its like the app is not calling the clipboard contents from outside the app.

In effect, what I want to do is have TuneEcu "consume" either a properly configured .csv or .txt file and "import" these values into the selected table while in edit mode within the TuneEcu App. It will do this with a PCIII file. I don't really need the automated consumption/import part, just the ability to paste from the clipboard.....

Anyone know if this is possible? If not, can we get this added to the TuneEcu application by the developer/s?

Why? Because Excel is MUCH easier to work in when dealing with fields of data and Macros can be written and all sorts of other bits to make the process easier to alter a map file.....

Input greatly appreciated!

If the TPS value changes when at operating temperature, wouldn't it be easier to heat up the*TPS using a heat gun and check it with digital or "laser style" temp sensor, rather than reassembling the tanks and air box and running the bike and checking it. This seems like a lot of assembling, dismantling to get an accurate reading. If that is the case can someone tell me what temps they see inside the air box, preferably right at the TPS?

If stock airbox with no heat shielding, 160+F is quite easy.

Mine will have heat shielding when I reassemble it. How much cooler? Is this plan reasonable Tahoe? I am more methodical than quick when playing with things designed by smarter people than me, so pretty sure the reassemble, run and check for me would be a pita.

I wouldn't put a whole lot of heat on it. You would be heating it quicker than what it normally sees. Can't trust electrical stuff around heat too much. You could plug in to TuneEcu and watch the voltage as you warm it up. I find the difference between hot and cold to be pretty consistently .05 volts. I just left my left side fuel tank off then warmed it up.

Hello guys, anyone of you is able to use Torque for Android with 'the ECU 990?
thanks

Actually was figuring on heating up the whole airbox area slowly (while shooting it for temp to monitor it) so that it simulates normal heatsoak - localized heat wouldnt stay there long enough to make adjustments anyway I was guessing (my workshop area is pretty cold at his time of the year). Just remembered that my datalogging Fluke came with a thermistor which is tiny and can be laid in place beside the TPS, or even poked through a small hole to record airbox temps while running, logging the whole thing. Would be really cool if I had that much time on my hands.
Thanks for the tip on the 0.05 - gives me a starting point.