Knife Sharpening

According to this video the Work Sharp WSKTS can sharpen serated blades

2:20
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in few days I'll be able to tell you first hand!

I just sit down quietly away from the bustle at work. Put my feet up, get the small round files out and....the magnifying glass.Not much different than sharpening a chain saw and that's what I use a chain saw file. I can probably do that 5-6 times before the knife needs replacement. Well not exactly replacement I just leave it there as a "staff knife" and get them to buy me a new one altough she said no last time. I'll be fine, new budget is coming up....I'll get one eventually.Will be the last one, then I can hang them all up for good.

Quick touch ups, out comes the steel.

I've done that to improve one in the field, but it usually leaves a burr or uneven edge on the concave side, which is far from finished. Better than nothing, but far from ideal.

Hitting bones does that to them, curls the edge toward the concave side and then they don't cut all that well. I like mine to saw through anything....small bones, frozen meats and then go on to tomatoes.

Old ones "sort of" resharpened are the best garden knives, cut through them roots way down there.

35 years of handlking knives, only nasty cut I ever had was from one of them serrated, a brand new one at that. Sure hit my finger bone.

I'm not one to quote long posts, normally, but this one deserves another look by most of us. It's very good.

Think I posted this pic on the other knife thread.

Falkniven F1 Zytel sheath with sharpener pad attached(held in place with a peel and stick adhesive).



Beats using a rock!!!
The smaller Falkniven folder is my EDC.
bill

The edges of the triangular stones of the spyderco sharpmaker keep the cheap serrated bread knife I have cutting bread. It's the only serrated knife I use. Works good enough for my needs.

A wooden dowel, sanded to the right profile if need be, and wrapped in wet/dry sandpaper will do the job very well. That's what I'd use to sharpen carving tools if I wanted to touch up the inside. If you want to go overboard on sharpness, you could load the dowel with honing/buffing compound.

I really like your idea, what type of pad is that?

It's a Fallkniven product.

http://www.fallkniven.com/en/shop/details/365/13/sharpeners/d3t

Available in the USA here...

http://www.amazon.com/Fallkniven-Knives-Diamond-Whetstone-D3T/dp/B0091WCXK8


bill

if its a working knife, use the bottom of a pottery coffee mug.

tip-
drink the coffee first!

ty sir!

For a convex edge, a mouse pad and wet sandpaper 400 thru 2000 then a leather strop and you will be able to split an atom with little cost.

You will also be able to cut yourself clean and deep with barely a touch, ask me how I know

Dosen't matter how I sharpen them , first the wife says "honey the knives are dull again". So I sharpen them , tell her " dear they are sharp". Next Damn it I just cut my self repeat every 3-4 months

My wife complains that the knives need sharpening again. I tell her when she quits banging them around in the sink with the dirty dishes, I'll sharpen them.
(But I do love that woman)

Mine does that with a little cutting stuff on a stone block thrown in. :huh

Mine bangs hers on the edge of a metal colander to knock debris off. I've shown her that it takes chunks of metal out of the blade, but she keeps doing it. Because of this, I don't bother with good knives, nor do I spend a great deal of time on blade maintenance.

No where close man. The hardest thing for a non pro sharpener is the correct angle. And the Work Sharp makes that a slice of cake. A belt sander does not make it easy and also only puts a convex edge on a blade. The average non trained guy will have a lot better time at it with the very easy to use work sharp.

I'll agree with Snipey on this one. OTOH, I'll be damned if I can put an edge on a Victorinox with it.