DR650SE Index Topic # 9 ELECTRICAL/LIGHTING

there is a method here:

krusty has a master thread that points to all these indiv. ones
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=549433

that master thread will ultimately be linked into gadget boys stickied master bike realted item thread http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=366046 so it will always be able to be found as the 1st post in thumpers. krusty is creating seperate threads per each category. if he mearges then it become huge and unwieldly just like the big dr, hence the indv. therads. of course these indiv. threads will float back in and out of the first thumper page as people post, but the master list will always be on top of thumpers.

what really needs to happen here (by everyone with a dr!) to truely evolve this dr master info tread is to start pointing back to specific technical post(s) in the big dr thread that pertain to issues in addition to adding your own info. everyone has some dr issue they know about and where it is in the big dr thead. make that info known! krusty started this because we all have at one time or another thought i have an issue and i know i've seen it somewhere in the big thread but where the hell is it??? what happens in use is people just ask the question again because it's quicker to get the info that way.

krusty,
i think you need to say something like i just said in your master list thread so people understand what this should evolve into.

Are there any aftermarket indicators that just plug in and work? I haven't managed to find any. I'm touring around Australia (see sig.) and would prefer an easy, cheap solution that gets my bike back to road-legal status.

Wye to Delta Stator Wiring

Thanks to the work of others:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=527351

Some repeat, some new:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=851210

Additional DR electical info.
Suzuki DR650 Electrical Page:
http://dr650.zenseeker.net/Electrical.htm

Stator Rewinding:
[http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=426659&highlight=rewind+stator

Stators Demystified:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189734

so i spent some more time reading about shorai batteries as i keep hearing about them from various sources.

here's a faq on cold:
http://www.shoraipower.com/t-faq.aspx

simple answer is they don't crank as well the 1st time only when cold compared to lead-acid/agm but crank harder after that. so if it's real cold you either crank once and then crank again for full power (which isn't the best for wear) OR turn on the ignition/lights and let the battery "warm up" and then get full crank and a cold weather start.

here's the dr listing:
http://www.shoraipower.com/s-48918-DR650SE-CN.aspx
the standard battery option has more cca than the deka but costs $45 more.
like i said, the weight issue is really not that big on the dr...but if i had a
wr250r i would pay to loose 4lbs. of course the price will come down over time to the point i think it's a no brainer to buy these batteries. since the dr is kinda of a weak starter from the factory (undersized battery cables) maybe the shorai is the perfect battery for us today. it is undersized and thus needs some foam shimming. sound like a complete nice package for jesse & procycle to be putting togthers, shims and all.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=650324

Greg@RME Ignition Switch Removal:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15015229&postcount=2

Edit to add another thread on switch removal: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=700534

Including this by Dukegnarley:
"I did some searching and came up with an answer on another board. The way to add a different switch is to....

1. Cut the pigtail off of the original ignition switch

2. Connect a 100 ohm resistor between the black/white and orange/yellow wires.

3. Connect the brown and grey wires together

4. Run the red and orange wires to your new switch.

I haven't actually tried this yet to confirm it, but I will in the next day or so."

Hi all..

Thinking about swapping out my stock DR headlight for a double round HID projector light kit. Has anybody made a bracket to do this to there bike? I figure I would need to build a double mount, and make both lights move up and down independently.

Wiring wise, I want to have 1 light on all the time, and the other on a switch that I can flip on when needed. High beams will turn both on. Here is a picture of the kit I want to use.



I would also need a fairing, I think I've seen a few on this site that fit well over the round lights.. link??

if not going HID...

first place you should always start is a realy to bypass the stock electrical lines and get max power to the buld
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html

next upgrade the bulb but not so much (too hot) as to damage the housing
http://store.candlepower.com/64205.html
this is daniel stern's site and he emailed me this is the max you could go w/o a wiring harness (ie stock wiring harness can melt if used). not sure the max you can go w/o damaging the lighting assy (too much heat) though if you do have a realy.

this is be a great offroad bulb (& would produce even more light w/ a relay) if you are primarily a dirt rider:
http://store.candlepower.com/rose12v60h4h.html

here's the full list
http://store.candlepower.com/h4hb29003bulbs.html

i have also used these (with & without a wiring harness) and they do produce some serious light. they are imported by ARB.
http://www.bestrestproducts.com/p-94-ipf-h4-type-x51-super-low-beam-8060w-bulb.aspx

Crap. I've had intermittent issues with my '98 that sound like that, may be time to dig in....

a little hard to see, but this harness is secured to the top of the neck & is independent of the forks. no tugging

Saw on the first page a lot of people are running heated gloves as well as heated grips. Is that usually necessary? <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

I relocated my Watsen Design's LED turn signals. I bought these a couple of years ago for my SV650. They are actually made to fit the turn signal slots of the front fairing on a V-Strom, but they have a pretty generic mounting system, they can be adapted to fit almost anything. They were quite expensive but I do like the fact they are made with top quality craftsmanship, and they're small and extremely bright.

I decided to relocate them because I recently swapped my OEM luggage rack for a Pat Walsh Design rack. Rather than drill holes in the new rack I tried to come up with a more creative mounting solution that would be practical. This is what I ended up with:

Drill a couple of small pilot holes.
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Enlarge the pilot holes and drill 2 more small ones for the lock pins.
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Use a glue gun to seal the wiring.
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Cover it all up with heat shrink tubing for added protection.
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Right side installed.
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Both installed. Clean and out of the way.
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While these suckers may be small, they are extremely




bright... insanely bright. They are easily visible




on a sunny afternoon.
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Here's the link to a previous blog entry which shows how they were mounted with the OEM luggage rack
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http://www.fy-yff.com/2010/03/led-lighting.html
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Ouch, $119 CAD per set....:eek1

They look good though.

I know, I know.... But I managed to get free shipping because I got in on a group buy. Silly expensive but they're the bomb as far as blinkers go.

HID conversion for DR650
If you&#8217;ve ever ridden on a dark, Moonless night with no street lights and little traffic then you may already know the stock DR650 headlight ain&#8217;t much good. I recently up graded my &#8217;07 1050 Triumph Tiger with an HID and was very impressed with the result.

For the DR650 I first ordered the 35 watt, H-4, Hi-Lo HID kit from DDM Tuning. This kit indeed has the H-4 bulb but is really set up for a CAR with two headlights. So, basically you get a whole length of harness you can&#8217;t use .... and the install is much more complex. The Triumph Tiger has two headlights but with the HID I use only one ... and that&#8217;s all I need. So I figured to do the same on the DR650. I sent back the Hi-Lo kit and got the $25 HID single bulb kit.

http://www.ddmtuning.com/category.php?CA=61

They refunded my $15 (HI-Lo is $40). The new kit arrived in a couple days and was very straightforward to install on the DR650. You only have one beam ... but so far its a huge improvement over stock. HID bulbs have very long life ... but if one does go down, replacements are $15.


Here is the DR650 headlight with stock light on low beam. High Beam is not great at all ... useless on a very dark road.

I&#8217;m not great at tutorials but here goes anyway:
Take off plastic headlight cowl.
This is what it looks like:

Ignore my two brown wires ... they go to my funky headlight switch. Yes, if you ride off road this area may be dirty. Clean it up if you care. Headlight has to come off to get to bulb. 4 bolts (two on each side)



Headlight off, back of headlight. Carefully unplug three prong female from OEM bulb.



Gently peel off rubber cover. Release spring clip and remove OEM bulb. SAVE for back up! (wrap in bubble wrap, put in plastic bag ... DO NOT TOUCH with bare fingers)

Handle the HID carefully! Never touch it with bare fingers or skin ... or greasy rag. Remove from plastic holder it is sent in by twisting clear plastic tube counterclockwise. Thread HID bulb wires through stock Rubber boot dam and through HID kit rubber dam.

You will have to pull through the HID kit power wires as they connect to OEM stock plug outside the headlight shell ... but there are options here.



Carefully install HID bulb into headlight shell. It only goes ONE WAY. Do Not Force. Once the three locating tabs are seated in the slots, lock in spring clip as normal. See above pic.


Slip stock rubber boot along wires and replace back into its position over the shell.

Next, slide the rubber boot up the wires and firmly fit it over the bulb end. It should stay there.



This is what it looks like now. At this point you have to start deciding where to stash the ballast and ignitor. I fitted mine up into the little shelf area in the headlight cowl. But there are options here and plenty of room for creativity. All the plugs on the cables have rubber, water proof gaskets and snap together nicely. THEY CAN ONLY GO ONE WAY ... so hard to screw this part up. Notice the two HOT WIRES (Hot and Ground). These go into the stock three prong headlight plug. You have options on where it can go. I plugged mine in and wrapped the plug up in the vinyl pouch with the rest of the wiring.


Notice only TWO of the three plugs are used .... and they are NOT the same as the stock set up. The good news is plugging in any combo
will not damage unit .... but HID light will only work as shown above.


Here is stock headlight .... low beam.


Here is a before and after of the light against my garage wall. Very unscientific but there it is.

HID @ 5000K, 35 watt bulb. WOW!


HID straight on. I guesstimate about 4 times brighter.

I will update on this, but so far its an improvement. Dealing with the Ignitor/ballast require some careful placement. The pay off here is not only are you getting much brighter lights for cheap, but you're saving 20 watts (approx) over stock set up. On the DR, every watt is precious.
Hope this is a good starter for those thinking of upgrades. I'm sure I've left out a few things ... please chime in with ideas or improvements in the install!

Part of the dimness of the stock rear signals is due to the shoddy silver spray job on the inside of the housings. Mine were almost all black, hardly any silver in there at all. I took some shiny ducting tape (the metallic stuff, not Red Green's secret weapon) and lined the insides of both housings with that, then upgraded to LED bulbs.

I recorded this video as a wrap-up after the diode-debacle of getting normal flasher function with all-LED signals and without getting rid of the dash indicator, but it shows just how bright the stock signal lenses CAN be if you give them a little big of attention.

<iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/VGXinMvBOfc" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="390" width="640"></iframe>

Making Kill Switch Momentary Instead of Latching

Someone mentioned this and I like it. Hint for the electically challenged: it's inside the kill switch. And be careful, there are small springloaded pieces.

Cyberdos posted several good pics removing the small brass pin that rides in the piece I removed which will also disable it.:
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=23526161&postcount=88241

Prior to our annual summer road trip, I wanted to add more visibility to my wife's DRZ - both headlights and signals. In addition to adding LED signal/tail/brake lights to her Givi (write-up here), I also installed an HID kit on her bike.

Earlier in the year, I added an Eastern Beaver H4 relay to my DR, and then replaced the stock H4 bulb with a PIAA Intense White bulb. While it was a noticeable improvement from stock, it still doesn't hold a candle (pun intended) to the HID setup.

I set my camera in manual exposure mode, metered the first shot (the DR's "upgraded" H4 on low-beam) and locked in those settings so that the subsequent shots wouldn't be exposed differently, hopefully producing a series of unbiased shots comparing the two lighting setups. Seeing as the lens/reflector of the DR and the DRZ are practically identical, I think this is as close to a 'scientific comparison' as possible without taking before-and-after pictures of the same bike (which I didn't have the forethought to do).

So... on with the goods.

DR - Upgraded H4 on low-beam:


And the DRZ with HID - low-beam:


Convinced yet? Okay fine... here's the high-beam shots, too.

DR - high-beam:


DRZ - high-beam:



The HID kit I installed was one I sourced from a local online retailer. He had installed the same dual-beam, 55W/5000K kit in his VTX 1800 and I was impressed with the brightness, colour, and spread of the light it produced. My hopes that the DR/DRZ headlight would produce similar results with an HID kit didn't go disappointed.

To get more light from my DR, I ended up adding an Eastern Beaver Headlight Relay harness with an extra Hi beam power line. I made up some brackets to mount two 10W Monster LED spots up on the handlebar were the mirrors mount. This bracket also moved the mirrors out 35mm so I would be able to see around me.