Lobby, that's a multiple beer discussion ... one that I hope to have with you at THC in a week or two. Old phartes vacationing and riding motorcycles through this part of Mexico (remember, Mexico is a BIG country; you wouldn't want to send tourists through the tough parts of Detroit, either) is quite different from folks that are Mexican nationals, particularly nationals in other parts of Mexico. There are a million people ... and a million stories. We have plenty of Hispanic friends here in McAllen and we do business with a family that once had a large ranch near Saltillo. Some of the sons that we work with were born in Mexico. Most of the sons are adamant - they won't cross back into Mexico. Why the differences? Some has to do with old scores that they are afraid might get settled, I suspect some legal issues that keep folks from crossing the border that they don't like to talk about, the Reynosa traffic cops have a bad reputation for shaking down the local Hispanics (but not white folks, believe it or not, at least for the last few years), and a host of other issues that don't really apply to the vacationing gringo motorcyclist. On the other hand there are folks (several of the local riders in fact) who cross the border on a daily basis. Yeah, I can see the possibility of kidnapping tourists some day. I can also see a shooting war in the USA with the crazies like the Michigan Militia. Neither case, however, is something that I see as imminent nor does my present opinion of the possibilities keep me from traveling in Michigan or Mexico. The guys using the term "risk management" are absolutely right. Case in point. I was wanting to explore the town of Rio Bravo, which is pretty much a little industrial town not too far from the border. But until they get the present shooting under control it ain't gonna happen. Several of us have discussed, and it's been discussed here at my office, that Ciudad Mier is a good place NOT to bar hop even before the shooting started, because they have too many folks there that are smuggling dope and they are mondo suspicious. (When you get that advice from not one but several of your savvy friends then you listen ) But normally, a ride through Tamaulipas? Not a problem! And it's only our area that is having the big troubles lately. Normally it's very peaceful here. And frankly, other than Juarez, there really hasn't been much going on that would target or potentially endanger a tourist as long as you stay the hell away from weapons and drugs. Anyway, it's a little more complicated than all that, but the number of ADVRiders that journey into Mexico and who return talking about how nice the people area and how wonderful the scenery is should tell us something.
(NOTE TO JD - Tampico has two downtown walking/shopping areas, one more upscale and one more industrial. You'd probably enjoy hitting both of 'em) Tampico will have to wait. Won't get closer than Cd. Vic. Maybe a coast run later? I've re-encountered the siren call of Mexico as in the past but this time it's cruelly amplified by the love of motorcycling. Almost toxic in that, more and more, my mind journeys to that place in the Sierra Gorda - to converting it into a hostel, waving goodbye to a society that has never penetrated my heart as Mexico does. Returning to fitness and Spanish language studies in earnest - with renewed purpose. From the ashpile of a failed marriage rises a renewed life. So, is Mexico safe? Hell, life ain't safe - not if you attempt to live it. And that's all it'll ever be good for - living it. As the lady said,"Life is either a daring adventure or nothing. Security does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than exposure." -Helen Keller <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
Kate del Castillo loves Mole Negro Oaxaqueño: Ingredients 4 large onions, chopped, plus 1 medium onion, quartered 8 ribs celery, chopped 8 carrots, chopped 2 (3 pound) chickens, cut into 12 pieces, skinned 5 chilhuacles negros, seeded and deveined; seeds reserved 5 guajillos, seeded and deveined; seeds reserved 4 pasillas Mexicanos, seeded and deveined; seeds reserved 4 anchos negros, seeded and deveined; seeds reserved 2 chipotles mecos, seeded and deveined; seeds reserved 1/2 head garlic, cloves separated 2 tablespoons whole almonds 2 tablespoons shelled and skinned raw peanuts 1 (1-inch) piece Mexican cinnamon 3 black peppercorns 3 whole cloves 3 tablespoons sunflower oil 1 1/2 tablespoons raisins 1 slice egg-dough bread 1 small ripe plantain, cut into 1/2-inch slices 1/2-cup sesame seeds 2 pecan halves 1/2 pound chopped tomatoes 1/4 pound chopped tomatillos 1 sprig thyme, or 1/2 tsp. dried 1 sprig Oaxacan oregano, or 1/2 tsp. dried 2 tablespoons lard 4 1/2 ounces Mexican chocolate 1 avocado leaf Salt, to taste Directions In a 2 gallon stockpot, heat 5 quarts water and onions, celery, and carrots to a boil. Add chicken pieces and poach, covered, over low heat for about 35 to 45 minutes, until cooked through and juices run clear when pierced with a fork. Remove the meat from the stock. Strain and reserve the stock. Heat 2 quarts of water in a kettle. On a 10-inch dry comal, griddle, or in a cast-iron frying pan, toast the chiles over medium heat until blackened, but not burnt, about 10 minutes. Place the chiles in a large bowl, cover with hot water, and soak for 1/2 hour. Remove the chiles from the soaking water with tongs, placing small batches in a blender with 1/4 cup of the chile soaking water to blend smooth. Put the chile puree through a strainer to remove the skins. In the same dry comal, griddle, or frying pan, grill the onion and garlic over medium heat for 10 minutes. Set aside. Toast the almonds, peanuts, cinnamon stick, peppercorns, and cloves in a dry comal, griddle or cast-iron frying pan for about 5 minutes. Remove them from the pan. Over the same heat, toast the chile seeds, taking care to blacken but not burn them, about 20 minutes. Try to do this outside or in a well-ventilated place because the seeds will give off very strong fumes. When the seeds are completely black, light them with a match and let them burn themselves out. Remove from the heat and place in a bowl. Soak the blackened seeds in 1 cup of cold water for 10 minutes. Drain the seeds and grind them in a blender for about 2 minutes. Add the blended chile seeds to the blended chile mixture. Heat 3 tablespoons of oil in an 8-inch cast-iron frying pan over medium heat until smoking. Add the raisins and fry them until they are plump, approximately 1 minute. Remove from the pan. Fry the bread slice in the same oil until browned, about 5 minutes, over medium heat. Remove from pan. Fry the plantain in the same oil until it is well browned, approximately 10 minutes, over medium heat. Set aside. Fry the sesame seeds, stirring constantly over low heat, adding more oil if needed. When the sesame seeds start to brown, about 5 minutes, add the pecans and brown for 2 minutes more. Remove all from the pan, let cool, and grind finely in a spice grinder. It takes a bit of time, but this is the only way to grind the seeds and nuts finely enough. Wipe out the frying pan and fry the tomatoes, tomatillos, thyme, and oregano over medium to high heat, allowing the juices to almost evaporate, about 15 minutes. Blend well, using 1/2 cup of reserved stock if needed to blend and set aside. Place the nuts, bread, plantains, raisins, onion, garlic and spices in the blender in small batches, and blend well, adding about 1 cup of stock to make it smooth. In a heavy 4-quart stockpot, heat 2 tablespoons of lard or oil until smoking and fry the chile paste over medium to low heat, stirring constantly so it will not burn, approximately 20 minutes. When it is ?dry?, add the tomato puree and fry until the liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Add the ground ingredients, including the sesame seed paste, to the pot. Stir constantly with a wooden soon until well-incorporated, about 10 minutes. Add 1 cup chicken stock to the mole, stir well, and allow to cook 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Break up the chocolate and add to the pot, stirring until it is melted and incorporated into the mixture. Toast the avocado leaf briefly over the flame if you have a gas range or in a dry frying pan and then add it to the pot. Slowly add more stock to the mole, as it will keep thickening as it cooks. Add enough salt to bring out the flavor. Let simmer another 30 minutes, stirring occasionally so it does not stick, adding stock as needed. The mole should not be thick; just thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Place the cooked chicken pieces in the leftover stock in a saucepan and heat through. To serve, place a piece of chicken in a shallow bowl and ladle 3/4 of a cup of mole sauce over to cover it completely. Serve immediately with lots of hot corn tortillas. Hint: Be sure to put the blended chiles through a sieve or food mill, or you will have pieces of chile skin in your mole, which needs to be silky smooth. You can use oil instead of lard to fry the mole, but the flavor will change dramatically. In our pueblo, people traditionally use turkey instead of chicken, and sometimes add pieces of pork and beef to enhance the flavor. You can use leftover mole and chicken meat to make Enmoladas or Tamales Oazaquenos made with banana leaves. Inspired by Maria Taboada and Paula Martinez
Hey Thanks so much John, That was a very useful post with all the coords and highlights. Already loaded into the GPS. You da man! Now it's a simple matter of listening for the "noise" reports to determine if we are going to cross and sleep or sleep and cross. With these waypoints though, our confidence is enhanced and chances are increased we cross first late on the 14th. Thanks again buddy, I owe YOU a beer. Question is, will you be there to collect? <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
I'm dying to get out and do some riding. It just seems like every week has thrown a new challenge at me that has to be overcome. But there will be some trips later this year, come hell or high water, unless we have a full-scale war going on around Tampico. And I don't expect that. In fact, I was looking at today's Mission paper and things were relatively peaceful, although someone took a shot at a soldier's barracks near Tampico with a rifle-fired grenade. :eek1 No serious injuries, they say.
If you are here on Friday, I expect to collect. For sure! The only question is whether I ride north or south on Saturday. That's the same weekend as Bugscuffle, and I planned to ride up to near San Antonio that day. This is the stuff that always comes up. Conflicting events.
WOW! That's Fucking beautiful! And a great inspiration for our impending ride south. <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
Kate del Castillo loves Mole Negro Oaxaqueño: You bring your guitar, I'll bring the wine We'll tripe my guacamole baby just a one more time "Tripe Face Boogie" -Little Feat
Why don't we get drunk ... and screw? -Jimmy Buffett- Trivia: I've seen Little Feat open for Buffett once or twice, and not too long ago I saw a Buffett concert and was wondering who the new member of the Coral Reefer Band was until they started to play Dixie Chicken. It was Bill Payne - the keyboardist for Little Feat.
I'll have a heart attack just thinking about it. We need to send 'em over to Boys Town. On a busy night you could find a Kate del Castillo look alike without too much trouble ... thong optional.
Yep, somebody's gonna be hittin' sumpin' every time that line's used! (or) More Trivia: Bill wrote "Tripe Face Boogie" with Richie Hayward who is fighting liver cancer at this time.
As they say in Ohio, "bring your rubbers." These are Ohio rubbers, at least from my parent's generation:
