The CRF250L Owners thread

I wouldn't say car drivers are so good here, but most are quite cooperative with motorbikes.

If i should complain, scooters are my target ... no traffic rules and so many :eek1 and more and more powerful :huh
... I fear mostly them

L

never mind....

Exactly what I was thinking, as long as it's narrow when I scoot up so I can still touch the ground then it will be ok. If it makes that narrow part higher I might have a issue with it. I'm just tippy toes on the bike before the lowering link and haven't got to ride it yet since the install. I live in Canada it's a bit chilly yet....

Thank you for the feedback, sounds like a go for me then

I have the lowered seat and it made just enough of a difference to make the CRF comfortably rideable (or should I say when I stop) with my 29 inch inseam.

I finally got all of my gear together to change my stock bar to the Easton EXP 1 3/8". I ordered a set of Cycra Pro Bend Handguards with the front mounts. I'm not sure what to expect when I start the swap. I've heard about "tabs" or "pins" on the controls that have to be removed or ground down. Are these part of the controls or are they on the OEM bar? Do I have to disconnect throttle cable, clutch cable and brake cable, or can I just slip these off of the ends? Thanks for any help or a link to any other postings for instructions.

Thank you, I figured there must be a few people with this seat by now. With all the feedback, it will likely be next on my list.

If you have enough slack in the cables to remove the controls from the handlebars, don't remove the cables. However, you will probably at least need to disconnect the throttle cable.

If you don't wish to drill holes in the new handlebars, you will need to remove the nubs from the controls. I've done it both ways, and I prefer to remove the nubs from the controls with my dremel tool. If necessary, I wrap two layers of electrical tape around the handlebars to prevent slippage where the controls attach.

Spud

I pull the grips, loosen the controls, remove the bars from the triple clamps and can normally just slide the controls off.

I use black tape trick too.


I cut the Easton 1 3/8" EXP bars to the first mark, about 5-7mm per side. I did it with a tubing cutter(I was about to get the saw out). It made it about half way in and the end snapped off clean.

It looks like it has 2 or 3 walls at the end. After I cut them I found out there is another wall in further inside. :huh

My Acerbis x-strong inserts just fit inside the bar. When I went to put the inserts in after cutting the bar they were about 5mm too long. I shortened them to fit in about 2 minutes.

If I would have cut the bar anymore it the inserts would have need about 20- 30 minutes longer to rework the inserts as needed. About 3 marks is the maximum the bars could be cut before some serious reworking is needed to make the inserts fit.

The last wall on the end is harder then the outer walls. I didn't try to drill the inside wall deeper so I don't know how hard it is?

They fit and feel great now. I don't doubt the strength either.

That's the way to do it, Guru! . The handlebars are coming off anyway.

Spud

All the pictures show it with the heat shield and side plastic off. Did you have to do that or is it optional

I noticed this on my bike when it was new too. It went away after about 200 miles. I thought it was because it's an O ring chain, I figured excess chain lube between the O rings was slowly leaking out. On a different topic, after about 500 miles the motor started to loosen up, has 900 miles now and the difference in power from new is very noticeable.

I was wondering if any one has found a LED tail light for the CRF? I want to keep the stock fender assembly back there so no eliminator kits. Is there one that just plugs into where the bulb goes?

Here is where it sits today. It has the EJK tuner, air box mods, 13t sprocket, Shinko Trials tires, Big Gun slip on, led taillight, tool kit removal.

Looking good !!!

How loud is that Big Gun ?
I just ordered the the stage one kit from BDSB's with the megabomb and Q4 I just hope it is not too loud
BDSB just lowered their prices and it was cheaper than the CRF's Only kit.

And we all KNOW you started it with no muffler. How much quieter than no muffler is the Big Gun?

lol ... yes we do !!!

Looking at this, it seems the spark arrester (#7 on this) is $63. The lower part is just the spark arrester screen, which slips off (not sure which post showed this). So, I think Ed@Ford posted he modified the muffler on his XR400. It seems a cheap mod would be to get the SA out, and enlarge the holes (which you can't see in this schematic) to make it a bit more free flowing, and a little louder, way less $ than any aftermarket muffler, while still retaining the cat. Point being if you went a little at a time, enlarging the holes, and got too far, easy enough to put it back the way it was. Some of these DB ratings I'm reading about are just way to obnoxious, just my 2¢. Will the ECU "relearn" the mod?

http://www.hondapartsnation.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053e49df870021c54be2131/muffler

its pretty loud compared to stock. The bike is way louder with no exhaust :)

Looking good. Btw I have a big gun full Evo R system on the way, will post sound clips once it's installed and my EJK comes.

I realize this is a personal preference type question but ... I would like to hear what people like.
I am leaning towards the woods low bend because I also have the Rox pivoting 2 inch risers coming.
these are the pro taper bars I have to choose from.

CR High Bend
CR Mid Bend
Carmichael Bend
KX High Bend
Henry/Reed Bend
Pastrana FMX Bend
Windham Mid Bend
Woods High Bend
Woods Low Bend
YZ High Bend