I disagree with a lot you have to say, but I kept my mouth shut, but this tops it. Do you really dyno bikes? Have you ever tuned a bike with an FCR on it? Just about every bike I have ever been around with an FCR had a choke on it. My stock WR had a choke on it, and my DR with an FCR has a choke on it. Added: I am sure you are going to chime in about the technical difference between a choke and an enricher circuit, but for the average person they are they same in the way they work to warm a cold bike up.
I looked up the price of a choke for the FCR in my Outlaw 525 and it was $100!!! So if that's the case off of all the variations of the FCR, maybe I can find another bike or something where I can get the thing cheaper. Otherwise I'll just keep dealing with it as it is. It's a mild annoyance is all. Rob
Using the stock vacuum petcock with the Acerbis isn't a 'bolt and go' option. Stock Acerbis. I suggest changing the order that I did this project. File the flat first, if you loose interest or decide this is too much trouble, you can still use the Acerbis petcock. Once the hole is ovaled, there's no goin' back. If your tank has a raised boss on the surface like the Acerbis 5.3, you'll need to file it flat or the rectangular o-ring on the stock petcock won't seal. The o-ring isn't very 'fat' and won't seal over the four red circles shown below. You want to be real careful here, since the o-ring is so thin, if you nick the surface with a power tool, it won't seal. I used a hand file, it took forever and I'm happy with the result. File til my fingers hurt, watch TV, file til my fingers hurt, watch TV.................................................. I used single file strokes, making sure the file was flat to the surface every stroke. Petcock hole elongated for the double tube stocker. Once you commit to this point, the Acerbis petcock o-ring won't seal anymore. Stock petcock on the left, Acerbis on the right. Where it's going to leak. Original debris inside new tank doesn't matter since the filing to fit added more (And why you want to rinse out your new tank before you use it). A benefit to the neutral color; it was easy to see inside the tank, all surfaces. I used hot faucet water to rinse the tank, shook it up good and drained it, three times. To get the remaining droplets out, I rubber banded a paper towel to a dowel. The neutral color made the drops sparkle, easy to blot up. Another difference, the stock petcock is 1" taller than the Acerbis. This might be a problem since the uphill loop is now 1" higher. The uphill loop and potential vacuum lock. When the fuel level gets low, there isn't enough head pressure to overcome the air bubble in the loop. This means the bike quits running even though you can still see gas in the tank. It's a common problem on both the IMS and Safari aftermarket tanks, some work, some don't. I haven't heard anything on the Acerbis yet. And: the vacuum petcock is thicker where it screws to the tank. I don't like the idea that there aren't threaded metal inserts in the tank, the mounting screws thread into the plastic. My point is, now the provided 2 screws are too short for a good secure bite in the plastic. OCD, maybe. The provided screws are 3/4", I bought a pair 1" long (size 12x1 SAE stainless is just a bit larger O.D. [.17mm] than the 5mm that were supplied). Before: Reason, low profile front tire: After:
/QUOTE] I decided to use the Acerbis supplied petcock because of the large weight difference between stock and Acerbis. They might have planned it that way so the screws into plastic would not present a problem. Chris
My FCR41 has a choke. BTW, the guy who is selling his original carb in the Flea Market who stated that the " The pumper was not worth the trouble to set up" does not know what he is missing! I was lucky & bought mine from a very knowledgeable gentleman who sent it to me set-up & ready to go. A true bolt-on. On the road the CV does OK, but off-road there is no comparison!
Chris: You may be right. Could you go back and edit out 11 of those photos? It's a bandwidth thing for some users.
Unless someone did a really strange retrofit, your FCR41 has a cold start enrichment circuit. A choke is closed when an engine is cold and opened when it is warm, whereas a fuel enrichment circuit is opened when the engine is cold and closed when it is warm. A choke works by restricting the air flow, whereas an enrichment circuit works by adding extra fuel. A choke requires a fast idle cam or something akin to it (or you have to hold the throttle open manually), whereas an enrichment circuit adds a little extra air simultaneously with the extra fuel, so the fast idle is already built in. Regards, Derek
How many times do you feel it necessary to point this out. All adjustable wrenches aren't Cresent wrenches, but if someone says "Cresent wrench" everyone knows what they are talking about. Same with Allen wrenches. The little picture on the handlebars of the DR650 shows an image that is unmistakeable that a true choke resides in our carburetors. Maybe that's where the confusion originates. I'm sure when someone pulls that carb apart, a lightbulb goes on and they will come to realize the reality. Let's just all agree that when someone says the choke on their DR, they mean the system used for coldstarting the bike. Regards, Rusty
"Crescent" and "Allen" are brand names, and do not imply that the items referred to operate in a manner opposite to how they do in reality. Therefore your analogy is invalid. It must at least be a contributor. It won't hurt to realize it sooner. If meanings are continually perverted, then language eventually becomes such that no one can any longer be sure what others are really talking about at any given time. There are many examples of this in common usage, and I'm against every single one. Regards, Derek
I am going to but a set or torque wrenches: One for inch/pounds and one for foot pounds. The foot/pounds wrench is going is for 3/8" sockets, and with the inch/pound wrench I have a choice of 1/4"and 3/8". What size you all recommend for the inch/pound wrench? -------------- Some advice: be gentle with the kickstand (don't sit on the bike and rock when the kickstand is holding the bike up) or its mount will bend and the kickstand will grind into the swingarm.
I have to admire your persistence. air screw / fuel screw there, their, they're your, you're, yore air, heir, err to, too, two weather, whether
The cold start enrichment slide and knob assembly lists at $27.39 ea. for an FCR and at $34.27 ea. for the FCRMX. I'm told that the assemblies for OEM are different. From Honda, they're ~$26.00. From Kawasaki, they're ~$28.00. From Suzuki it looks like they're around $25.00. From Yamaha, ~$22.00-31.00. Regards, Derek