I have my old motor out and need to. Get the rest of it dismantled so I can send CJ the transmission that I owe him. I have the heads and cylinders pulled but can't get any farther than that. How do I get the gears off so I can pull the rest?
You are going to need pullers and an impact wrench before you can split the cases. As mentioned, if you are asking, you could benefit from the service manual.
+1 on a manual. But, to get you going, the rotor/flywheel has to be pulled off to get to the balancer shafts. Nothing is coming apart till then. The big arsed gear on the right side of the crank can stay to get the cases spit but has to come off if you want the crank out of the right hand case. Clutch has to come off.
I've got the manual printed out. If you need it let me know and I'll send you pictures of the appropriate pages.
Haven't had need to split any of my KTM's but Pep Boys has a Kawasaki brand impact driver rechargeable that will get anything off,many times using your hand instead of special holder tools.A penny or nickel placed between primary and clutch gears will jam them without any harm to gears to get off crank nut,Motion Pro sells a great universal holder that will work with about any thing,looks like a vice grip.Universal gear pullers from Harbor Freight work well and are cheap enough to modify by grinding arms to fit .Don't forget your old friends heat and cold.Hot air guns will warm up aluminum without warpage or damage to the cases making separation easy.Main bearings may come out of cases still on crank or gear shafts but are easily removable with a Harbor Freight beveled bearing separator .When putting things back together,put your crankshaft in the freezer,warm up the ball or roller bearing mains with the heat gun and install with your fingers(gloved!) and no hammers or violence,put this assembly into the freezer,warm the cases to the point of being too hot to touch and push things together with your hands.Can't knock a newly aligned crank(roller bearing) out of line this way.New transmission bearings and seals,also fork seals can be pushed fully into place by freezing them and warming the aluminum case or fork.I have rebuilt many Yamaha,Bultaco,Husqvarna,Ossa etc.engines in this manner with no hammers,special tools,no forcing or hammering,everything spinning well an not leaking.Tighten up case bolts to specs,if any binding occurs,warm cases and give them a few smacks with a rawhide mallet(not on shafts) and everything will spin freely.Hope this will make someone's life a little easier and less expensive!
