My "98SE was a little hard to shift and find neutral. I did the spacer thing ( http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18199055&postcount=11211 ) and it's better. Not as smooth as the old XRs were but I don't think about it any more. If you check back through all the previous posts , some others have reported that new clutch plates solved the problem.
Thanks cwc, The reason I was asking is because I have a fairly weak spark, ignition coil resistance is in spec primary and secondary even put on a new coil, brand new cdi box from horse power ignition, The trigger and source coil resistance are both in spec but the output a/c voltage seems weak. Im getting .3 volts a/c from the trigger coil which I believe is good but the source coil for the cdi im only getting 24 volts a/c which might be the problem. Anyone else might know what voltage I should be getting??
+1 (99 dirt model) My clutch cable broke fifty miles from home once and even without the clutch I was able to shift through gears fairly easily and ride it home. A clutch cable that's adjusted a little on the loose side on these bikes can cause the "hard to find neutral" problem though.
Yes,your right about a loose adjusted cable making a hard to find neutral. The adjustment is a fine line between full engagement(no clutch slip) and full disengagement(finding neutral or 1st) made even finer when you add Jesse's easy pull clutch arm.A very narrow sweet spot is the price you pay for that easy pull. I believe that I will pull my steel clutch drive plates back out and lay them on a piece of glass to check warpage.I did not notice any blueing when I last had them out for the material removal off the kick start gear. BTW Cheap Cycle Parts has those 6 steel drive plates priced at $8 a piece. Thanks 2bold2getold for the reference!
My DR shifts much smoother when I blip the throttle and sync the rpm a bit. Just a little blip makes a big difference between clunky and perfection...
I got the bike so I can ride it. Bags, pivot pegz, bar risers, new bars, handguards, fairing, wrapped the header. I know I will need the suspension resprung. Then the motor upgrades will come. Right now I want to ride it so I can appreciate the new motor. Next thing is to get my other bike running. The difference between stock pegs and pivotpegz.
They are bajadesigns DUAL FUEGO's. When I get some time and money I will be changing the lights out for some LED's.
Apologies if I'm posting in the wrong forum but I couldn't find a DR250 thread and my bike is the small sister of the DR350.... I'm making a long trip for the 1st time on my DR250. It's just 200 miles which isn't far but in the current british climate (snow), it is! Avoiding highways, I reckon it'll take 6-8 hours So I want to be able to use my heated vest which apparently uses 43W / 3.3 amps. But the bike will have it's lights on too. The manual doesn't help me. Can anyone here advise? It's a 1991 DR250S.
Hmm. My '92 DR350S stator drives dual 65W halogens w/o issue (does dim at idle with both on, but not with just low beam) Best thing to do is get a voltmeter - as long as you're up around 14V everything is good. Get a variable controller for your vest and you can tune things to match. Good luck! PS: I've also ditched the battery and gone to a capacitor, so I don't have reserve voltage at idle, but I don't have the drain of a halfdead battery half the time anymore either.
I have used a heated vest on a longer ride than that - Granted not on max heat but I imagine if you keep the rpm up most of the time you'll be fine. If the headlamp starts to dim all you need to do is turn the jacket down (or off) for a few minutes to put a bit of charge back in the battery. After my 225-mile cold-day ride, I plugged in the batter maintainer and it indicated the battery was fully charged.
looking at adding a capacitor instead of a battery on the kick start DR. I know that some bikes can not do this as they need a charge to start the prossess. I know that the DR is able to ditch the battery. Pablo used a 35v 2500uF cap wired in place of the battery. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15108825&postcount=125 Any other tips. How do you prevent discharging the cap into you and dying. Would a bigger rating of uF or a smaller one of volts be better? Experiances
In the past ( 10 plus years ago ) after I got in a good dirt ride I would wash the bike and engine with Simple Green. It did a nice job and also degreased the frame. Now that I'm going to drive the bike again after that many years, what should I use for a protecting spray after I wash it. Maybe CRC or WD-40 or what do you use for a wash and spray down? I going to start driving the bike again. It's a 1990 Suzuki DR350S. I just did an oil change and rebuilt the carb. Thanks, Frank
I used an Accel 151308 Battery Eliminator capacitor, I recall the specs are 25V and 27,000microF. Got it for $20, looks like $30 now. When I turn on the key (on a dark morning) I see the neutral light come on and fade out in less than a second. That's the entire charge of the cap going by. I don't worry about getting zapped, but I would turn on the key and discharge it before I stuck my finger on it.
I too run a kickstart DR350S without a battery. I'm using 2 4700mfd capacitors in parallel in place of the 4 AH battery. The lights dim slightly with the turn signals at idle but are stable above 2000 rpms. I'm running stock lights and I routinely use an electric vest AND grip heaters. No problem since the engine is almost always spinning fast enough to run everything. If you're worried a voltmeter is the best way to monitor it. Getting zapped by the capacitor is not a problem since it bleeds down thru the voltage regulator almost instantly when the bike is shut off. Truth is, I almost never turn the ignition switch off... just use the kill button. Nobody can steal it anyhow cause only a tiny percentage of the world's population can kick off a DR350. ;-)
That's my thinking on my old Enfield 500. I normally leave the key in it when I go into a store. I was surprised one day when an on- break employee ran to tell me that I had left my key in the ignition. I kinda figured that anyone this day and time that knows how to kick start a 500 single deserves it free of charge. But I do take the key out of my DR350SE. Any idiot can press a starter button.
That is quite a range of capacitors. Seems like anything will work. Will the bike start with nothing in place of a battery?
Why do you need vent lines. The CV carb has at least 2 pisser lines that come off it. Are these really needed or do they jsut keep the gas from spilling on the engine. The "T" vent line is the most baffling. Stock point up. Point it down and it vac locks. Most "T" it. But with a hose it runs too. WTF.
