Separated fracture of the glenoid (shoulder socket) back in January, but I'm back riding again. I finally replaced my flakey OEM pump with the latest CA Cycleworks pump about 1000 miles ago (just returned from a 5 day NM trip where I got in about 400 miles of dirt). Everything seems to be working great and bike is running stronger than ever (close to 14K miles overall). I haven't moved my filter out of the tank yet and am using a metal NAPA 3095.
I am using a CAcycleWorks pump on my Husky and I used the Duralast equivalent of the NAPA 3095. The first one lasted 6000 miles and clogged up, the 2nd and 3rd filters lasted 1000 miles apiece, but I admit I started using octane booster in my Husky thinking I was hearing some knock. The octane booster may have had something to do with the filters failing, I put in an even bigger filter of the same, paper design ( http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=19749197&postcount=118 ) and that's when things got ugly, the bike was cutting out, backfiring, and dying, all the signs of my previously clogged up filters, but now this was on a brand new filter. I have now stopped using the paper filters and got a 40 micron, all metal/metal screen Edelbrock. Bike is running great again. I have lost all trust in those $5 filters being able to handle 43 lbs of pressure.
I have now replaced my fuel pump in my KTM 690 with the California Cycleworks pump; replaced the line with the Gates H209 5\16" submersible fuel line; installed a Napa 3095 steel body filter. and we are up and running. I have driven around town yesterday and will be out on the trails today for 5 or 6 hours so, we shall see how things unfold! Incidentally, the Napa 3095 appears to be for 1989-90 vehicles which were carbureted engines. I'm curious about the reliability of the of the Cycleworks pumps as, you see posts where folks are now carrying a spare fuel pump on long-distance trips. Has anyone suffered problems or failure with the Cycleworks pump? I know that Alongat received a defective pump 1st time around from Cycleworks which, they replaced immediately. Maybe people could chime in on how long they have been running the Cycleworks pump or how many miles\kilometres they have put on since replacement. AustinJake - How has the Edelbrock 3029 filter worked out for you?
replaced my fuel pump with Cycleworks and Napa 3095 filter and it's been working real well for a few hundred miles on road (I'm not taking this thing into the boonies until I know I'm not going to have to leave it there!) Once it stalled and was low idling when it got pretty warm in stop and go traffic - even with the low temp fan switch. That was yesterday. Hoping it's not the FI system rearing its ugly head once again. I did put my filter outside the tank in place of the quickconnect . Yesterday when I started it cold, there was a leak and I notice that the hose clamp was pretty loose at the filter inlet. Strange because I'm one of those guys that overtightens everything but maybe I was trying to be ginger with the rubber hoses. Maybe the hose clamp vibrted loose. I'll keep an eye on things. that edelbrock filter that was suggested above being a 40micron screen is concerning. I would think a particle that big could block the injector. Maybe someone can verify? IMO the paper filter element shouldn't be an issue since the fuel flow rate is miniscule on these bikes compared to auto engines and the pressure diff is almost nothing. I suspect there's a chemical issue with the octane booster used in that case. James, please PM me when those filter socks etc come in. Thanks for stocking those!
I agree, 40 micron is not good enough. KTM used to spec a 10 micron inline filter for their dirt bikes, now they revised it to 20. A good compact filter many people are using on the Husabergs is the one from a Can-Am quad, #709000100.
Carburated car systems run 10psi and EFI runs 43psi, I ran the Duralast version of the NAPA 3095 for 6000 miles but from 6000 to 9000 I started having problems. Cycling my system inside a clear plastic jug, the gas turned cloudy, like the filter was shedding. My CAcycleWorks pump has almost 10,000 miles on it, and works great. The pumps are made in China and cost $7 wholesale, they are an easy decision to replace for the retailer. I have about 200 miles on the Edelbrock, working very well, I will be looking for any and all solutiions to upgrade it versus going back to a paper filter. The screen inside the Edelbrock looks to be upgradeable, I would love to find a 20 micron ready-fit screen to slip inside the alum housing, that would be the ideal. I have a 400 mile off road weekend coming up in November, I'll report back, I usually ride sweep, so I eat alot of dust.
This appears to be a part of an EFI system for the CanAms, I will see if I can find out if it is paper or metal inside.
AustinJake - Thanks for the response, what about contacting Edelbrock directly? One thing I'm struggling with is aren't most fuel filters paper filters, if fact the the KTM filter appears to be paper. I'm going to cut open my old KTM filter and I may order another Napa 3095 and open it and compare the filter material. Could it be additives that people are putting in their fuel that's destroying the filter or is it the dreaded ethanol that North America is adding to fuel?
I used the Duralast/NAPA/small metal body paper filter for 6000 miles with no apparent problems, then I just kept putting them in, one after another, bike would run for a while and then start sputtering/backfiring/popping etc, so I dont think it's the ethanol, it may have been the octane booster I started using, but I need to able to use that stuff, particularly in out of the way gas stops where regular is all that is available.
I phoned Edelbrock's Tech Support today and they advised that the finest filter screen available is 40 microns. I questioned whether this would meet the particulate size a fuel injector would withstand and he advised it would be fine. I may phone KTM and pose the question to them or even a filter manufacturer if I have time.
Possibly already answered but I took an old one off my bike and cut it apart and it is a paper filter inside.
4 long and one short code.... already chged the fuel pump... w/ ca cycle pump... failed last fall no codes, I'm sure someone has the video for that..:huh failed in my drive way a month or more ago setting the 4L1S code, chged the fuel pump... had a grnd failure a week ago, fixed that easily, then failed again yesterday 4L1S code again.... wtf........................:huh no sound from the fuel pump to be heard.......... ideas?
4 long and 1 short is "Fault/short-circuit in fuel pump control circuit". Since this has occurred with more than one fuel pump, it may be independent of the fuel pump itself. Looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like one way a short could be detected is that the ECU is monitoring current flow in fuel pump power line for safety reasons. Another way is that the ECU contains a resettable circuit breaker. I would check wiring in the fuel tank for possibility of shorts. I would also check the continuity of the ground wire (black-blue) to a ground elsewhere on the wiring harness. Of course, it is possible that you have had a short in more than one fuel pump. :huh
I pulled it all apart last night........ or it could be self abuse by ty wrapping the fpump wires too tight and the wires popping off the pump leaving me on the side of the highway...:huh .......... self abuse is just the best... no one else to blame... except the guy that was with me at the time, yep i'll blame him.. so, it is back together and running... I did think that about the wires to the tank, i pulled the battery and tray to see if anything... I did find that that wire was pinched under the battery tray, but that wasn't the fault... it was a future fault though... thanks to bk.rd.rnr and dirtjack for their input on possible causes... this place would be a pile of blah blah if it wasn't for people like you guys trying to help people you never met... thanks again
Sean When I wrap tied my wires I happened to notice that it pulled the connectors almost apart at the pump. Cut the ties off, crimped the connectors tighter & started again. All seems fine since.