Clean, good find. Pawn shop??:huh I've seen bikes, 4wheelers, go-carts, dune buggy's...etc... at pawn shops through the years but never seen anything that wasn't a complete POS. Your bike looks brand new.
Thanks! The pawn shop I got the bike from has always been very fair on there prices and they only deal in decent stuff. I tightened the spokes though it looks like ill have to replace one or two, cleaned the carb trying to get ride of a very slight off idle miss, and gave it a good bath. I hope to put some time in on the trails this weekend.
I picked up a used '02 off craiglist first of July thinking it was a good deal at $430 only needing a top end and the kid selling it had a kit. I jumped on it without really checking it over becuase it was cheap and I was looking for an easy project. Little did I know that the wrist pin on the piston was galded up and the dumbasses who'd owned it before never thought to adjust the the timing chain that was in the process of eating the motor. Turned out the top end kit was 65.5mm which turns out to be standard bore I had my engine guy sleeve it so I could use the kit that it came with and I gave him the crank assembly to set up the new rod and crank pin/bearing up for me. It was a fun rebuild but it was very easy to tie up more than double the cost in doing so along with a lot of other bits and pieces missing/broken on my good deal of a XR200R The point I at now is needing a new solution for the rear shock. Does no one make any higher spring rates for the factory shock? I've searched online and haven't found much. Seems like have to find an earlier model xr200r shock. Any good ideas on beefing up the rear to haul my ass around without bottoming the stocker all the time? I've got to get a new chain slider before I start it up and break it in, I was going to follow the motorman method on this one and see how it does. Neat looking little bike and I'm sure it will work great for doing some trail riding and practicing big bike skills. I'll get some pictures sometime and post up of my little beast. If anyone has one they are parting out I'm looking for a light kit too.
I believe the trick on the rear shock is to pick up an older '86-92 rear shock with the remote bladder on ebay and rebuild it. For the spring, I think Progressive is what a lot folks use. http://www.xrsonly.com/dirt-bike-pa...-springs-honda-xr200-81-90-xr250-xr250l-86-97 Also, you might give race-tech a call for some advice: http://racetech.com/ChooseVehicle.aspx the have spring calculators on their website but nothing comes up for the shock. If you going to get into it the shock, they might have some valving suggestions for you. If your going to beef up the rear, you should probably do something for the front as well to keep it balanced. Progressive springs for your weight and emulator valves if your serious about it. I've got a couple XR200's I'm working on as well. Guess I ought to get some pics on here as well. I got a suprise last night when I was attempting to replace the clutch plates: you need a special tool/socket to pull off the Center Clutch nut and an oil pump nutt that is in the way as well. I made a tool with a grinder and a 3/4" socket that did the trick. Not pretty but it works. Aaron C.
Thanks for the shock info Aaron Those little tools for the clutch and oil pump are cheap and pretty handy to have working on these little motors. The two I needed where that one you made and a rotor puller bolt. Very nice addition to the tool kit to have around. Last night I ran the preload down most of the way and shortened the spring up to help a little carrying my weight around. Will check into the early model rear shock after I get the engine up and running and dialed in. Something about a xr250 shock I've been reading about as well I check more into Both the front seal in the forks where blown as well, go figure. Whoever had been running this bike ragged on it pretty but it took the beating fairly well and came back together nicely. Looking forward to seeing how capable this little bike can be, I like the idea of a 6 speed trans.
Hi, I have a 91' xr200r and I'm looking at mounting a bigger capacity tank but yet to find any after market tank that make for this bike. I'm wondering if a 83' XR500R tank will fit?
not sure about the tank options. I have a '83, which has a different seat and have not been able to find bigger tank options for it. not sure if a xr350 or xr500 tank will fit on the newer style.
I was thinking about getting the fmf powercore 4 slip-on for my 01' xr200. The previous owner had already removed the snorkel from the airbox. Will it still run fine with the exhaust or will it get too much air?
I will be rebuilding up a damage XR200R, a project now in progress... it is a 1995 model... the previous owner painted it with enamel which looses when drip with gasoline. i am so irritated of it coz sometimes the paint pigments leave onto my boots. so i had stipped down the original paint and repainted it with marine epoxy which is rock hard when fully cured...
Actually it's only the top end are for rebuild but since i already torn apart each pieces, i decided to have look after on its finishes...and i prepp the engine ... and sprayed using VHT High Temp Ceramic matte black... Exhaust header... Cylinder head cover... on the frames, i suspect marine epoxy is far better than other polymers epoxy. since the condition am running in with the bike is sandy beach and desert shoreline, i think marine epoxy would do the job better protecting it's bare metal parts... i baked some small parts after painting (placing in an oven set for 250C) and it turned out rock solid...
i had just received the parts and i can begin the engine rebuild... PISTON, RINGS, WRIST PIN, BLOCK & CYLINDER HEAD before start of the reassembling, i did the routing Inspection if the parts received were in specifications. Inserted the 2 compression rings to the bore and check the ring gap... As per Ring gap calculator, it shows 0.011". Using the feeler gauge, these parts were on specified gaps...
Another inspection is the wrist pin. Since the piston doesn't come with the wrist pin, i settled with the old wrist pin in it before but later found out that the circlip lock cannot get in on the other end. Wrist pin was little longer for the new piston(back to standard bore) so it needs to shorten with lathe machine to enable the other end of circlip lock in place... FRONT: machined wrist pin BACK: Original wrist pin of the Last rebore piston And the Piston assembly was finally installed...
this is now the other end of the wrist pin in the piston look like, the circlip is already in place. now the cylinder block was intalled with timing chain tensioner and the timing chain in place... <a href="http://s185.beta.photobucket.com/user/casabella1434/media/Clipboard02-1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://www.advrider.com/advrider-photobucket-images/images/c/casabella1434_Clipboard02-1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Clipboard02-1.jpg"/></a>
Block was setted. Next, cylinder head gasket was applied with Head Gasket Shellac. then placing the cylinder head on top... TIP: tap the head slightly with rubber mallet to easily engage its face with the block's face...
during disassembly, i never any gasket between the head and the cover. so i better choose to apply a hi-temp gasket maker to make sure no oil leakage. TIP: before clasping the face of the head and the cover, position the decompression lever at 7 o'clock position, otherwise decompression won't work as it will bump with the head's fins... then tightened the Head bolts to specified factory torque: 28-30 NM and 16-18Nm for the head cover bolts. TIP: order of tightening of bolts better should be on X format...
Let me know how you are setting the timing. Both mine and a friends XR200R have been tore down and we are struggling with how we set it.
