I'm trying to add a GPS mount to a '92 R100R. Next phase is tapping into the bikes wiring harness. It looks like the GPS harness I'm using has some voltage regulation box, with an LED, so I would prefer to have that powered only when the ignition is on, or as a "plan B", have it switched. No sense draining the battery when not running... So, looking for suggestions on best/cleanest location to tap into the wiring harness for "ignition on" only power, or if there is a supplier or after-market option for using one of the switch blanks on the instrument cluster of the 92 R100R. Would prefer to not use the bmw accessory socket. Both because I'd rather have the wires tucked in out of sight, and I'd like to keep the socket available for electric vest. I have the wiring diagrams from the shop manuals, but more realistically need information where on the actual bike location wiring would be a good location. of the 4 fuses, 3 seem to be switched by the ignition, its mostly a matter of picking one circuit, either at the fuse box or elsewhere in the harness. thanks
Check with Eastern Beaver... http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/fuseboxes.html . He has very good wiring solutions for accessories, lights, horns, etc.
Powerlet actually makes a handlebar mounted socket that has a Ram mount hole for a GPS. Bonus is that it wires directly to the battery - no splice required. Just put one on my XR650L and love it. Doesn't solve the switched power idea, but you could easily add a switch to the Powerlet harness rather than hacking your bike harness.
Sounds reasonable. Time to pull the ignition switch to tap in there. I like the idea you can still use GPS with switch in "Park".
Powerlet handlebar socket is intriguing. "switching" could be accomplished by unplugging the GPS from Socket. This option also also allows easier swapping to other powered items on/near handlebars (not that the electrical system on those era bikes could handle a lot of electrical add ons). Still could be the justification for upgrading the charging system with something like the Motorrad Omega 450. Socket means no need re-wire if I change brands of GPS (just adapting it to the powerlet plug. Not piggybacking on existing fuse, I could run straight to battery and put a separate fuse in-line. Would need to find suitable location to mount the socket. To get really fancy, could have relay switch on the socket based on taping off the park tap of the ignitions switch, so the socket is dedicated circuit but is only live when ignition on, or in park. But that could also just mean more parts to fail.. Good feedback, nice to think of options I hadn't originally considered.
You are on the right track, but making things too complex. Use a powerlet socket as suggested by Ignatz. Wire the powerlet socket to the eastern beaver fuse panel. The wiring harness to the fuse panel has a built-in relay for on/off functions of accessories. When you understand how the eastern beaver fuse panel functions, you may decide that it is a good way to go.
Just so you'll know... I'm running a small PC680 battery and have me Garman 550 wired directly to the battery. My GPS uses so little power, that even with my small battery, leaving the GPS turned on for a day or two means nothing to the battery. OTOH, unless the bikes in the garage, the GPS goes where I go. No sense tempting those having weak morals!
The powerlet harness is fused already, BTW. I'll edit with a direct link when I'm on the real computer... Powerlet 1/8" to 1" Bars (they also have one for 1-1/8" to 1-1/4" bars, not sure which the R100R has): http://www.powerlet.com/product/handlebar-outlet-also-mounts-gadgets/347 One mounted on my XR650L: <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/X9DxfzXjvVK6C-0M18oxqoEES5kTO12MX3CKkDXjE10?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LFoUoKRN29U/T7Q9FOGfMGI/AAAAAAAAAuU/MeYUK2Kus5w/s640/IMG_6510.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/satchefratz/XRL?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCNjJ6dyzjqDOYQ&feat=embedwebsite">XRL</a></td></tr></table> Pricey, yes; but worth it. Standard BMW accessory plugs fit Powerlet sockets, no adapter needed.
For now, the single powerlet looks like what I need, especially with in line fuse. I can add an eastern beaver 3 circuit fuse block later, but unless I upgrade the alternator, can't see needing that many sockets or power taps needed at the same time. I already have the bmw standard socket next to battery side panels. I may just get the socket and adapt a handlebar mount, the R1001 has its plastic "dash" with the two blanks for switches covering prime front and center bar mounting area. Hmm, custom machine an adapter to fit the powerlet socket into one of those switch blanks. Will edit this post to include a before photo to make it clearer.
Hmm, this forum doesn't store photos, have to be at a public URL. This advrider thread includes photos of a 92 R100R Dash: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=471110 Using the switch socket might work. Powerlet lists drilling an 11/16 hole for the socket, and the switch blank is just 1/64 over 11/16 wide. Might get a little more wiggle room, or have the switch hole to powerlet socket rise a little above the dash and get wider to provide a little more material to the adapter.
Try to think ahead tho. If you are going to add more accessories, which is where I'm at, you may be better off mounting a fuse box some where. For instance, I'm running GPS, heated clothing both off the battery. The dyna points thing is running off, I think the black wire on the coil which is switched (I installed the thing and can't remember. How sad is that?). But I'm also planning on an Acewell speedo and Baja Designs race light, and a power outlet for charging the cell and ipod. Also, some one added heated grips and I have no idea how they are wired. So I got fuses and wire every where. Point being, you don't want to start tapping into the switched wiring which was only intended to run a couple OEM things without upgrading the wiring gauge. I'm going to clean up my mess with a fuse a box that is powered or grounded (depending on how the wiring is) from a switched source.
+1 ... plan your work, then work your plan; also, give yourself room for things to evolve. I have a GPS, radar detector, battery tender, powerlet, horn, headlights, and a USB connection; and it's all so simple and clean. Centech and others make fuse panels; I like the ease of the Eastern Beaver wiring harness and fuse panel - it's plug and play.
Current plan is powerlet outlet on bars, inline fused direct to battery. One bar/tankbag device plugged in at a time. This is can easily be adapted to plug into eastern beaver fuse panel if I need to add that in future, and add more circuits. I'm aware (from house wiring) , that sometimes the limiting factor is your overall capacity (the master fuse/breaker in your panel), and sometimes the limitation is space for additional circuits. Right now, with the stock, 17 amp total output from alternator, I'm trying to not exceed that capacity, so purposely limiting the ease of adding circuits/devices. Besides, part of the appeal of the motorcycle is to get away from all the electronic gadgets. Which is why its taken me this long to even consider a motorcycle mounted GPS (but I've gotten addicted the usefulness while driving a cage, especially around where I live, where street signs are often small, missing or hidden by vegetation). So, yeah, while fabricating the switch blank to powerlet socket adapter, I'll probably make two, since I have two unused switch blank slots on my bike, but one will just get stashed for now, until I upgrade charging system, and then want to add additional circuits.
