The XT600 Thread

only the bootm one act's as a drain
i have used a stud in the past but best solution would be to just rebuitd tread with helicoil or someting

Nuno

I think it has something to do with the way of life in Europe/Australia vs the way of life in the US and A.
I do know how Mark words are meant.
But this leads to nowhere...
Olli

Hi guys, I am back.

I am trying to sort out this 1984 XT600 that runs pretty good but the idle seems to be off. When you give it gas it will run fine but the idle seems to hang around 3-4k RPM until I blip the throttle and then it comes back down. I need to make sure that the throttle valve and secondary piston aren't sticking open still but is there anything else that I might check out?

Jetting is all stock, float level is within spec, fuel screw is at 1.75 turns and all the intake rubber has been replaced so I am fairly confident that it is not drawing any air from unwanted places.

Thanks so much.

Thanks Fred,

Yeah, I mean the two top bolts that hold the oil filter cover on. The bottom (drain) screw and the bleed screw are still good. The one at the front facing the front wheel, is the stripped one.
My worry was was that this hole was open inside the crankcase. If I tried to rethread it, swarf would go into the engine. If I tried "Thread repair" it would put epoxy into the crankcase.
I SHOULD take the clutch cover -I know- but really I dont want too:) Too slack......
But I'll work on this, maybe get a stud if I can find someone in Cairns that has half a brain. The last bolt dealer I went to (biggish shop) said "Nah, thats an automotive thread. We dont have those"
Thanks Fred!! Done well!! Thanks Nuno! Usefull replies Good on ya!

Sounds like -maybe- a frayed throttle cable? At the top prolly. Or sticky stuff around the carby linkages? Trapped/kinked throttle cable?
Mark

I've seen this happen on a 660 (similar carb) on the top of the primary carb there is a linkegde under the plastic cover
attached to a shaft this is what makes the slide rise and go down inside the carb, the link has a screw that hold it on the shaft
It was a little loose and the slide would not go down by itself making the idle hang until the throttle was bliped.

here: (blue arrow):


Nuno

Any photos of your 1984 XT 600?:eek1

Thanks for the replies guys. I had to take the wheel off for repair. It will need new spokes. So once I get that sorted I will start on the carb again. I put some marvel mystery oil in the gas and ran it to lube and clean the inside of the carburetor while it sits with the wheel off. The engine felt and ran strong, and pretty quiet for 13,000 miles.

Ed, I will get some pics up very soon... The bike just looks so sad right now, I need to take care of some things on it first.

I am looking for a set of spokes for this '84 XT600. Can anyone point me in the right direction here? I see kedo has a set for the '87-'89 XT600s but they don't list anything for the '84. Where there some major changes done to the XT in '87?

I got a rear set off e-bay a few years back. Just have to check it often, Kedo has a set for your bike too. Just tell them its a 43f model. Very good company to work with.

I am going to change the fork oil on my 1991 xt600E, any big downside to draining from the drain holes as opposed to removing the entire forks. I am also condidering adding spacers to stiffen up the front suspension, bike is used 85% on road. Thanks

Just got my wife a 95 XT600E.

Shes digging it!

Thanks, I found a set on powersports plus for $62. Ordered a few other things and hopefully that'll be all I need. I'll put some pics up sooN!

You won't be able to get all of the old oil out if you use the drains...It's not much more work to just take the fork tubes out.

Hey guys new here on the 600 forum, Have a 82 XT550 already. Been reading into the XT600 and I've read a lot of different stories. I being in-patient bought the Off-The-Road external oil cooler without a lot of research. Living in California we don't get killer temps but 100's are common in summer. Is this cooler worth the money to install or will it cause more issues later on. If it is a good deal and works with no other issues how do I go about routing the new stainless oil lines. The instruction are in German and even translated are still difficult. Please can anyone explain how to route the 2 lines. From the pics on there site it look like one goes from the cooler to the bottom of the oil tank? then the other line from the cooler to engine(below carb)? That sound right guys and thanks for the help!

http://www.off-the-road.de/Other-bikes/Oilcooler-acc/OTR-oil-cooler-Yamaha-XT-600.html

This might help, Its my oil-cooler installed together with an mocal oil thermostat. You have it almost right.

Without the oil thermostat it goes like this.
First line is from top of cranckase engine ( below carburator ) to oil-cooler.
Second line is from oil-cooler to the top of oiltank.
That means the cooler is installed on engine oil return line.


Best regards Brage

Do you think I need a thermostat as well? and thanks so much for the picture and info

Is there any data proving the effectiveness of these coolers? Just looks like something else to break to me. Is it really going to be effective when it is really needed ie when chugging along at low speed in tough terrain, sand etc? Sure it might have a small cooling effect when you have a bit of speed up, but is there really a hot oil issue when travelling at speed? Being an oil in frame bike, the frame is the actual oil cooler and when you think about it is quite a large heatsink/ radiator as compared to a DR650 that needs a cooler as there is no other source of cooling for the oil.

Difficult to answear that one, I think - if you have an completely original bike and mostly run it in a normal envirioment, you should not be in need of an oil-cooler - if so it had been there original from the start.
But, like mine which is modified and tuned, I`m pretty sure it`s needed. I have installed the Tenere 83 mod. big 30 litre fuel tank, and therefor removed the air scoops attatched to the original tank pushing the air around the sylinder head, this decreasing the aircoolant flow ,also The old classic Teneres had oil-cooler, and so do all the old tuned Dakar version of the bike from the Gauloises team.
So if you have an tuned bike, or run it very hard, or very slow in hot citys or have an aftermarket fueltank installed, the oil-cooler is needed.

Pic of my modified XT600 2kf below:


Best regards Brage

I think your right, But One question, you said the oil is in the frame? I thought that's why I had the external Oil tank on the back left. My 82 XT550 had oil in the frame but not this one? unless its routed somewhere I haven't seen yet? Ive had the 550 for a few years now but the 600 is new to me.

Anything else you guys know about the XT600 or more specific my 89 XT600? Ive been reading about the issues with 5 gear, what is the minimum speed to be in 5th, Im always above 60-65 when in 5th? Anything I can upgrade from a diff year or pay attention too? I did remove the side stand switch, but didnt notice any differences with or without. Thanks guys

I've recently purchased an 1989 xt 600, 3900 miles on the odomoter. I knew I would have to throw some money at it, to get it running right. Basically doubling the original purchase price, but those expenditures were at my leisure, to the consternation of the old lady.New tires.steering stem bearings,professionally cleaned and tuned carburetors, desert tank,performance exhaust,re-upholstered seat and a Wallmart rattle can paint job. I did change the gearing by adding one tooth to the front sproket, (an excellent up-grade) ,thought about the oil cooler...but ...decided upgrading to a better oil (50 % synthetic) and oil changes every 1000 miles would be sufficient. The front forks allready had the upgrade of progressive springs and compression spacers, but new 10 wt. fork oil was added insurance to a 23 year old bike. Runs like a raped ape, so I am totally happy with the end results...