Bananaman trees. I'm luvin it. There sure aren't many ride reports with guys camping by ancient ruins. Most are afraid of the ghosts. And zombies. :eek1
I haven't been keeping this up to date very well.Sometimes no access.Sometimes no time.Other times when I get done Skyping my wife,I'm just too tired.But I'm here again. I crossed the border into Guatemala at La Mesilla.It was a great crossing.Aduana spoke pretty good Engish. And the bike getting fumigated. The roads in Guatemala are curvy and at 8-9 thousand feet. I got a room in Joyabaj.Later in the evening I went looking for internet service.Gave up and headed back towards my room.It was 7:45 and I kept passing barbers still working.Since I needed a haircut before I left home,I decided it was time.Cost $1.10.Sure feels a lot better. In the morning as I am starting my bike,a guy walks over to me.Scott Mitchell from England is on his way back from TDF.And he is visiting a friend who moved here from England 30 years ago. I was going to the Copan ruins in Honduras.But he said I must go south to Antigua-50 miles and 2.5 hours away.Well it was about 4 hours for my direction impaired navigation.I asked 3 people witch way to go.All helpful till I came to a fork in the road.Is this the road or another driveway.The third guy I asked spoke English.After trying his way,I decided to go back to Joyabaj and follow the GPS.Hopefully it will be pavement. 5 minutes later a truck flags me down.It's the English speaker.He is taking his mother to the hospital.Told me to turn around and follow him.When he turns right I should turn left.So I finally get on track. I got to Antigua about 1:30.I had to go to the john so bad that I was taking the first room I looked at. $50 with breakfast.But what a room. I got settled in then walked around town taking pictures.Some how I got lost-even with a town map.It was almost dark and cold when I got back. I talked to my wife and son on Skype for about 2 hours total.When the service went dead,I thought it must be a sign that I should go to a bar. 2 doors down was the spot.Small but it seemed to be English speaking.Local people living here from Canada,Holland (owned a bike shop there till he got robbed),and New York.They said the bar closes at 12. don't have to close till 1am. Then why was it 3:10 when I got back to my room. Well I didn't get up till 10am.Had a great breakfast and hit the road about 1. I am now passing on the Copan ruins and going to El Salvador.Before leaving Guatemala,I bought some gas and drinks and candy to get rid of all their currency.I crossed at Valle Nuevo. Check out was good-nice English speaker in Aduana. El Salvador was even better.A guy from aduana sees I'm not playing stupid-I am stupid.He takes my papers and fills them out for me.Another guy wants some papers.Almost there.But he wants 1 more.He puts his hands on my handlebars like he is riding it.He wanted my drivers license.They were very patient.Had to get copies of things. 6 copies-35 cents. My total border expense.An hour and a half. It is now 6pm and dark.But the road to San Salvador is expressway,straight and mostly flat.When I get there I find it to be very American.A lot of signs in English only. Wendy's,Burger King, Pizza Hut,Quiznos,Office Depot.That's just what I can see from here in Wendy's.I wasted an hour looking for a room.I didn't stop at the Raddison,Hilton,0r other high priced hotels.If Wendys cost $9,these places would be $200. On the road again.I found a room in Cojutepeque for $16.Hotel Familiar.Not much better than my tent.Well I'll be gone in the morning. Saturday I rode to the Honduras border.Yes I got worked pretty bad there.I'll do better from here on.I was out in about an hour and a half. Next I was about to enter Nicaragua at El Triunfo.My 8th cop stop in 2 hours.And only 1/4 mile from the border.Cop said I was speeding where he had cones up-20kph.I told his helper I wasn't.I was stopping for him.Now a truck fly's past.I asked what about him.He said he's from here so that's okay.I said what about the safety.I showed him I had no money-that was a fact.He said I would need $80 at the border also.He could make the ticket go away if I used him as my attorney at the border.He said I could go back 25 miles to a town with an ATM and get cash.I told him I would be right back.Well I got a room in Choluteca for the night,and will head to the El Espino border in the morning.Maybe a half hour farther.
Oh man, lots of folks have trouble on that short stretch in Honduras. Maybe I was lucky, but I didn't have any of that. A few cops waved me down. I either kept looking straight or waved back at them and kept on going. They're way too lazy to chase you down... They'll get the next guy instead. Hopefully you had some papusas in El Salvador! Keep on having fun. Looking forward to your next report.
Left Honduras at El Espino with no trouble.Straight thru Nicaragua as fast as possible.Several cop stops.One shake down.He said I was speeding.I finally said Boleto.Then I pointed to my GPS and said all my speeds are aqui,and I wasn't speeding.He handed my license back to me and said "Go". Entered Costa Rica at Penas Blancas.I would have been thru at 6:30pm except I was a little short on money.And the border closed at 8pm.I cleared migrations.But aduana wanted something like 7400 liempras-and I had 3000.A taxi driver offered to take me to a gas station to use my debit card.It was about 4 miles away and took about half an hour.He wanted nothing.But finally took about $4. I rode to La Cruz,C.R. and got a room. Killed a few ants before texting my wife.Then this 3" roach runs down my arm.When he ran,the sheets moved.BIG roach.Well I got my mosquito net out then.And slept happily ever after. Got to go get some food.I will be back tonight to catch up.Twice recently when I had internet,the system would go off for the nite while I was Skyping home.Tonight I had to change rooms because the internet (cable hookup) didn't work.
Just did a short ride today. 120 miles to Santa Elena,CR. In the afternoon I went on the canopy zip line.There were 13 lines total.I think the heights were 250-450 feet up.The 2 longest cables were 2700 and 3300 feet.Then to finish it off,they have a Tarzan swing.You drop off a 26' platform,and swing out to the horizon.After about your 3rd swing back,2 little Mexican boys try to slow you down to dismount.It was like a bowling ball hitting pins.One almost pulled my shoe off.The whole thing took about 2 1/2 hours and cost $45 dollars. I got back to my hotel,and 5 minutes later a taxi was taking me to a night jungle tour.It was mostly a bust for me.Big deal-raccoons and daddy long-legs.There were a few interesting things-tarantulas,some birds,some other mammals.But I wanted to see the sloth. So far,the only monkeys I have seen,have been 4 road kills. Thursday, 12/21/10 I rode 373 miles. Had some nice views up around 10,600 feet. And the last 2 hours in Costa Rica was good riding along a river. I crossed into Panama at Paso Canoas. 2 immigration windows open.But the 4 buses bet me there.That line was 1 1/2 hours.Then customs.Nobody in line.The guy sends me for copies and insurance.$16 for that.I have 2 dollars left.When I got back truckers kept getting taken ahead of me.I guess it was a few of the 2 miles of truckers I past on the way in.Thought I was done. He sends me to another office. Someone told me it was $5 for whatever.I go in and sit down and say "tengo una problema". He signals me to open my wallet.Another guy in the office says 'Un dollar". It was $1 for the fumigation.The guy sprayed my bike,got on his scooter,and beat me out of the parking lot.I was the last through the border for the night.They closed at 11pm. 10 miles down the road is a police check point.They are smiley,hand shaking guys.I'm something to break the boredom.They say be careful.People will shoot you just to steal your money.Welcome to Panama. I rode till 12:30 am to find a room.My low beam burnt out,and my high beam flickers a bit.I have a spare. But don't want to stop in the middle of nowhere to change it. I probably will though,in a few nights when it goes.I came to a town and knew I would find a room,or pitch a tent.The room I got didn't look too nice outside.But was pretty good inside.The next day I found the city to be David.The capital of that state. In the morning,I found I was a block from many banks and ATMs.The fifth one I went to,finally coughed up some money.Good ole US $. now I'm in some part of Panama City. I don't know what part,but I know it ain't cheap.I hope I'm in Panama City.My GPS calls it something else. Ate some Mexican food tonight.The Chinese place was closed.Hope to find a canal ride/tour tomorrow.Then look into flights for the bike to Columbia.With Christmas coming up,I may not be able to get out of here this week.Anyone know where Throttlemeister is now?Hope to see him sometime.
Dougs nocturnal tour or Latin America Have fun and Merry Christmas! Enjoy the Chinese food. I tried it in just about every country. It's always just as bad as it is in the US, but it's a nice change of pace now and again.
Thats what I was thinking too, and............. Doogle, you have bigger kahoonas than I do riding at night. I get to Panama regularily, and the drivers are better than the D.R., but the pot holes are worse. You either have a good light or good luck. Enjoying your trip, stay safe
My light isn't too good for night riding.It works better in the day.But the roads have been a lot better than what I read.The last hour in Honduras was the worst potholes I've seen.I read Costa Rica was bad too.May be bad somewhere,but it was all pretty good where I rode. Benny,I have been craving some Chinese.I think it's all good if it's warm.
Last night I spent an hour updating my thread.As I went to submit,it disappeared.And I was too tired to repeat. On Friday morning I went to the Miraflores Locks of the Panama Canal.I know it was a huge effort to construct.But I was not overly impressed.I have seen a lot of locks,and gone through a lot.I decided against looking for a boat to ride through the locks. I headed to the airport to see what my chances were of getting to Bogota before Christmas.DHL does not ship bikes.Girag cost $901.Copa was $860.Both require cash.If I wanted to get the bike on the road Friday,I needed to ship the bike before 4pm.And I needed to be at Copa Cargo in Bogota on Saturday before noon. Aduana in Bogota closes at noon Saturday,and doesn't reopen till Monday.That gave me an hour and a half to ride 5 miles to the airport,buy a flight ticket,get another $860 for bike shipment,and 5 miles back to Cargo. Well things didn't go good.I'm new to using debit cards.My card would only allow me to take out $500 a day.I had another card on the bike.I got it and withdrew another $500.I went to Copa for a ticket.They only sell round trip,and it was $860.No thank you.I don't know for sure how I'm coming back. Avianca had a one way ticket in the evening for $750.Or a Saturday ticket for $460.That would be to late to get the bike before the holiday shutdown.I ride back to cargo and start them on the bike shipping. I text my wife and have her look on Expedia.She booked me on Copa,"one way", Friday 11:40 am for $399.The flight first went to San Andreas,Azores. 2 hour layover then on to Bogota. Somehow, they booked me into first class. I still have to wait till Monday to get the bike. While at the airport in Panama City,I got that sudden urge to run to the bano.Well I make it there just in the nick of time.While I'm in my stall,I hear kids voices.Then I hear women's voices.My first thought is,how progressive.Men and women sharing the same banos.The sign did have a picture of a man next to a picture of a woman.Then I thought "you dummy,this is a fine mess you got us into". You're in the women's john. Then it sounds like someone is knocking on my door.Then again later.When I reach for the toilet paper-there isn't any. That's what the knocking sound was.A toilet dispenser is right in front of my stall.Lucky I have a supply in my riding coat. I waited about 10 minutes until I heard no voices,and escaped without any screams,yells,or other recognition of my careless act. I got some Columbian pesos at the ATM. 320,000 of them.No idea what the exchange rate is for them. Just knew I needed some. I go to a hotel and pay 230,000 pesos for a room. Later I find I'm in a $124 room. It's the Hotel Plaza. It's nice.But it's not what I wanted to spend. Well the next morning I'm finding another room.Online I found one for $42 that is about 2 1/2 miles away.Walking distance.With my tankbag strapped to my back and my GPS guiding me,I'm there in about an hour.But there's no hotel there.I flag down a taxi and move on to the next hotel on my list.It was about 4-5 miles away.I think the taxi driver has never seen a GPS before.Every red light he wants to look at it.He finally asks where I got it and what did it cost.Well we got to the hotel.It's small,but clean,and $78 for 2 nites including breakfast.They said it had wifi.Later they told me it would be fixed on Sunday.Had to go to an expensive hotel to rent some web time.Had to Skype my wife on Christmas.The hour of time I bought,it crashed twice.And I had to use there machines.One, then the other.I have had very few good connections since leaving California. I am still amazed at how many police and military there are.Even more here in Columbia than Central America.And it seems like most stores have armed security.2 guards at a bank.They unlock the door after making me take my coat off and leaving it outside.Then they run the metal detector wand over me.They treat you like you are a 15 year old boy going into a school. Today, for Christmas,I walked around Bogota and took pictures. And as usual I was lost for some time. The Spanish influence is amazing once you get south of the USA. The 400 year old stone buildings, brick roads, beautiful court yards, lavish cathedrals, huge wooden doors. In the states we marvel at a 150 year old house.Makes me feel like we were cheated. I am surprised that I still find a lot of English speaking people here.I know enough Spanish to get my myself understood.But when they start talking back to me,I usually just smile and laugh. Today I went to the Museo del Oro.It was free and only 3 blocks away.I don't do many museums-but it was interesting. On the way back to the hotel i saw some gondolas that were taking people up the mountain behind the city.Seemed like it would be a great view. $4 for the ride up and down.I think it is called Montserrate. Great view of the city. Then I went back to my room.Internet still not working.So,I packed up and moved to a hostel a block away. Hotel Chocolate. I like this place.Great internet service too.Well tomorrow off to the airport-and hope Copa has a bike there for me. Tonight I need to figure out where I'm going next.
Took a cab to the airport-Copa Cargo.The girl there pointed me down the parking lot.Looking lost,an Avianca employee tries to help me.He walks with me,1/4 mile to Aduana.The man there says I need a paper like the blue one I have.But I need a pink one with a stamp on it.Back to Copa.With that hopeless look I seem to exhibit all the time,an airport girl tries to help me.She looks at the paper I have and walks me to the road.This is when I realize my bike was shipped on Cargo Pack,not Copa.She says it is about a mile away.She tells the cabbie where to take me.In the office there,I fill out papers,pay $35 and need to go back to customs.One of there employees rides me back on a 125 Honda.I fill out forms.Then the biker boy fills out some things for me-to speed things up.Then off to Cargo Pack to get the bike. All work stopped while I was there.They wanted to know everything about me and my trip.Must not happen often here.The whole customs and immigration process was great.If only I knew who shipped my bike.Everyone in Columbia has been so helpful. On the way out of Bogota I stopped to have my oil changed and air filter cleaned.They were busy.But within 2 minutes the mechanic had my oil filter out.On the sidewalk.You pay labor separate from shop parts.Labor was $5. 2 liters of Motul oil-$19.WHAT? Should have asked first.Hope it is some super synthetic that lasts the rest of my trip. Later got gas and my big meal for the day. 3 doughnuts and a Pepsi at Dunkin Donuts. There are a lot of toll roads in Columbia.The nice thing about being on a bike is-for bikes there is a free lane on the right side. A lot of money would be spent for quotas if in a car or truck.Wonder what it cost for this truck? The last 2 hours into Armenia was great curvy,hilly,mountain area.I was tempted to stop before it got dark.But there was no place to stop. I spent the night in a luv nest in Armenia. Couldn't wait to leave my room.Picture of a girl topless above the head board. And the mirrors on the ceiling.I watched myself all night. Monday I had good riding into Popayan.But the best was the last 100 miles into Pasto. Curves,up and down in the mountains,on the edge of cliffs,in the rain and fog.It was the most riding fun I've had so far.There was a 2 hour wait for crews to clean up some mud slides.Bikes do go to the front of the line though. I got to Pasto just before dark.It's a busy clean city.I like it here.I am going to Sanuario Las Lajas today.It's a cathedral built in a valley.Hope it looks as good as the pictures I've seen.It's 2 hours north of me.So I will return to this hotel again tonight.Before I checked in last night,I was told they had hot water and wifi. Just got wet in the shower and all the water went off.Then I tried to get online.2 minutes and it went dead.I couldn't understand the receptionist.He called a woman guest and her 10 year old daughter down.The 10 year old was taking English in school, and did a great job interpreting.We got the internet going-there mix up of wifi name and security codes.Then 15 minutes later I had water again.Just finished breakfast and talked to the girl and her dad.Will talk with them later tonight.The dad wants to see more pics and talk more about my trip. What wonderful people I've met.
Today I went to Santuario Del Las Lajas.It's about 5 miles from the Ecuador border.I thought it was north of Pasto-some map I saw online.So I kept the room I had in Pasto for 2 days.If I had known,I would have been in Ecuador tonight.On my return from Las Lajas I couldn't find my hotel.Didn't mark it on the GPS and didn't know what road it was on.Eventually 2 uniformed guys on a motorcycle lead me to my hotel .The help I've gotten from the Colombian people has been unbelievable.
Losing ride report work when the computer crashes sucks. I would post and submit, then, in multiple windows, edit the posts every few minutes. Or type it up on word or something. Ask Ken.
The next morning I did write it up on a text document.Again on my very last sentence,I somehow managed to delete it again.Luckily there is the edit undo option there.But there was a moment of panic .
I left Columbia yesterday morning and arrived at the Ecuador border about noon.I think it's called Rumichaca or the Ipiales crossing.No helpers pestering me.A few money changers to cash out $4 for me.It took about an hour. Just before getting to Quito,I looked at my GPS to check altitude.And I noticed I had pasted the equator.So I turned around and back tracked about 5 miles to take a few pictures.Have to have pictures of this holy land. On the way into the city II saw a lot of small fires.They were life size dummies of men on piles of paper and wood.Usually there were 10-15 people gathered around.Many looked like they were in front of their work places.Hope to find out what that's all about. In Quito I was trying to find a hostel that my friend Merrill stayed in 6 years ago.I found it-no vacancy.But the Hostel Arupo,across the street had room.I booked 2 nights.Didn't want to be looking for a room new years eve. I went out that evening to see where I was and what food was available.This place was starting to party early.I wonder what it will be like tomorrow night. I need to change my rear brake pads.Latin American riding is hard on brakes.6000 miles on this set.When I installed these,I cleaned and lubricated the calipers and slide pins.I read they were bad for wearing on one side.And they are not reversible.You can't save the 1/2 worn pad for the other side later.I brought 2 rear sets and 1 front set.Hope they last that long.Seems like some enterprising person would sell individual sides for the pads.
Well I changed my rear brake pads.And they were worn out.For new years eve I thought I would eat a good meal.I went to a steak house and had a great big not so tasty steak.And my stomach said let's go home instead of going out for the big party.So that's what we did.Midnight and I'm in bed.Oh well. The next morning I had some sunshine.But it didn't last very long.Long enough to take a few pictures. Unless you have ridden Latin America you can't imagine how often you see this stuff in the roadway.It is as constant as tax bills. I'm riding into higher mountains.I was at 9000 to 14,500 feet most of the day. But there were people farming. And the temperature was from 44-58 degrees most of the time.And I don't think it was fog.I think I was just in the clouds most of the day.And of course it was raining.But I still like the riding in Ecuador. I stayed in Azugues this night. The next day I cross the border to Peru at Macara.I'm out of Ecuador in 10 minutes and in Peru in 30 minutes.This is a great crossing point.Every one was friendly and helpful.And I didn't cost a penny.As I walked out of Peru customs,I saw a boy ride a scooter into the back of a parked car.Sounded terrible.But he got up and rode off a few minutes later. I ride down the road about 10 miles and have seen hundreds of guanacos in the road.Makes you a little nervous. Then I see a guy standing behind his car looking at something.It's a guanaco he just hit and killed.There ought to be a law. I got a room-well it was a luv nest-in Sullana.Because I was too tired to ride further into the night.I wouldn't even take a shower in this place. The next morning I need to get Peru money-soles.My debit card won't work.So I go into a bank with a credit card.An hour and 20 minute line.I get to the counter and the girl says they don't deal with Master Card.Luckily,an employee takes me to the managers office.The manager tells the guy to take me to another bank.The guy hails a mototaxi and we go to the other bank.They don't accept Master Card either.But we go outside to their ATM and try my debit card.On the 3rd attempt,I get money.So back to the 1st bank we go.I took a picture of the employee that helped me. A half hour down the road 2 cops wave me to stop.They want to see the insurance paper I don't have.They didn't sell it at the border,and then I forgot about it.They said the fine was 432 soles.But I could give them $200 US and be on my way.I tried to act like I knew less Spanish than I do.It probably just made a 15 minute stop last an hour.I got my Spanish book out and finally said write me a ticket.He did 10 minutes later.And had me sign it.Then he started the $200 thing again.I told him I would pay the infraction at the police station-not here.10 minutes later he gave me my license,passport,and title back and said "go". I stayed in another love motel in Chao for $8.And I'm eating street food.Some kind of meat on sticks.Right next to the fried chicken feet. Then I go to an internet cafe.I've had bad luck getting on line for several days.When I'm done I go out side to listen to a free concert.14 guys singing and dancing on a stage.They are really good.I stay for an hour and a half.But at 11pm,it's time for bed. At 7am I'm on the road.And today I will get insurance.Because I read that the worst cops are around Lima.I asked a roadside cop where I could buy insurance.He said 1/2 hour down the road in Chimbote.When I get there,I ask another cop.He told me to get in the car and he would take me there.5 minutes later,I am paying $20 for 30 days insurance.I guess all cops in Peru aren't bad. Then he took me back to my bike. 1/2 hour down the road a bike behind me is beeping his horn at me.I stop.He is from Brazil and is traveling on a 750 Honda.Where he is going seems to hit the places I want to see.So I will ride with him for a while. We leave the coast line and head up the mountains.Into the clouds and cold. We got rooms in Haurez.And I finally get internet where I can Skype home and update ADVrider.
Well done with the cops. I don't remember ever having an insurance card unless I paid for it at a border and didn't realize it. I certainly never went out of my way for one. Except for buying some regular insurance on-line before entering Mexico, I think I must have been uninsured from Guatemala to Argentina! Oops!
Lot of people paying fines in Peru for no insurance. I couldn't find anyone who'd sell for less than a year, so I didn't bother...but I took a few evasive actions near Trujillo where the famous roadblock is. I'm surprised you found a monthlong policy--must be a change in national policy (or fake). Costa Rica certainly sold you insurance, Mr. Banana (or is it Mr. Man?). Colombia is cracking down these days--at some points of entry (often including the airports) you need to buy before they'll let you in. So is Argentina, where riders have been getting stuck at borders without insurance. Keep the photos coming! Mark
It's entirely possible that I bought insurance and just wasn't paying attention. I'm not advocating that anyone try to break the law. Seriously. And FWIW, I had purchased three levels of global liability insurance before I left the US. One was through my auto policy, with a global amendment, and another was through my homeowners, with a global umbrella, and the last was a solid policy through TravelGuard. My motorcycle was not insured, but anything I or it did would be insured, if that makes any sense? PS: I promoted myself to Sir Bananaman.