For those of you who question the value of a late modle low mileage DR350. This biek was mentioned a few days ago. And like I predicted the bids have already reached $2K (well $1999.99 to be exact) with 4 days left. Who wants to wager a beer on the final sale price. I am predicting $2400. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999...6342868?pt=US_motorcycles&hash=item3f1fcb1654
Be careful swapping CDIs... some won't swap. My buddies 93 DR350 dirt model didn't fit my 95 street model.
Hello, I'm in. The 2 people with 5 and 7 buys seem to be bidding against each other, way to soon for that, great for seller. A Corona says neither will get it and over $2400.00. Hope the Armorall doesn't fade by then. Heirhead
Not gonna bet, but I'll tell of my DR buying experience. I have that exact bike. A '99DR350SE. I bought mine from a figherfighter in Des Moines in the fall of 2011. The bike was completely stock, without a scratch, and just a tick over 5800 miles. I paid $2000 without batting an eye. Was it a steal? No. But Zooky isn't making them anymore, and I didn't have to drive 10 hours to get it. While that bike may go for $2400, I wouldn't pay that much. I check www.bikefinds.com almost daily, and I have spied several low-mileage '99s for sale at or below $2000. Here's what my $2000 got me; the day I picked it up: And @ about 11,000 ft. on a mountain in Colorado this past June: And I just bought a nice 2000 DR650 with 10k miles for $1500, so for me, anything over $2000 for any DR is too much. But that's just me?
Yep, there are definitely differences between the years and models. Make sure the one you are buying has precisely the same number and color of wires as the one you have (I don't think comparing numbers printed on the CDI - under the rubber mount - is sufficient). When I wanted a spare CDI for my DR350, I just kept looking on eBay til I found one. I don't hear of them going out very often (neither coils nor voltage regulators nor stators, either). But I have all of those bits, just in case. Regards, Gregory Bender
That bike looks to be in good shape, but there are a couple things that just don't seem right. Why would someone go to the trouble of armouralin the piss out of it, but not get the engine very clean? That chain looks like it needs to go. I wonder how many winters that has been sitting outside? Not a bad example, but that's a lot to pay for an old bike you've only seen in pics. I picked up my 99SE for $.10 a mile with 14,000 miles on it and it was in great unmolested shape.
Regarding the used parts hunt: My Regular / Rectifier had gone bad, charging the battery at 39.5 volts! I kept riding the bike on single-track (Elec. Start, lights long-gone) with the R/R disconnected from the battery, then charging the battery for a couple hours when I got home. I had been doing this routine since I got the bike last May. Last week I finally found a Regulator / Rectifier on eBay for $20 shipped. You just have to keep searching... sooner or later your parts will turn up.
In my opinion, that's a little too much for that bike. By comparison, I just picked up a very clean '99 SE about two weeks ago. Mine had just over 1800 miles on it. It still had the original tires on it, so you could say that it needed tires (which I've already ordered). My bike will also need the fork oil, brake fluid, air filter, etc. changed, just because of age. I knew all this before I bought it. I gladly paid $2300 for the bike. Why? Because I got the best year DR350SE made, and it's a model I've been stalking for two years. The P.O. was a very nice guy, and he threw in a nice bag for the rear rack, a tank bag, a new cable lock, and an inexpensive bike cover.
The price of that 99SE might end up going for more than what it is worth (to you), but it does represnet a national market price (even though it is pick up only). Prices on these thing really fluctuate based on the area. I check Craigslist Reno, Sacramento, and the San Fransico Bay Area. DR350's prices in the City are consitantly 20-40% greater. It is all about what people are willing to pay. And really what is a couple of hundred bucks in the grand sceme of things. Esspeically when you are talking about the best motorcycle ever built, which is no longer available new.
Oh, I agree - a bike's worth what the market will bear. The region definately makes a difference too. There's a California plated '95 SE on Bike Finds right now, that's going for $2750. It has 6000 miles on it too. Would I pay that much? No, but someone probably will, therefore it must be "worth it" to someone. I also agree with, "what is a couple of hundred bucks in the grand sceme of things?" If it's exactly the bike you want, and it's in good shape, what's another $100-$200? A day's take home pay, or maybe two? Just to illustrate prices in the Michigan dual-sport market, I recently bought an absolutely pristine 2005 KLR250, for $2150. It had 900 miles on it. A year or so ago I sold an absolutely pristine '08 CRF230L for $2400. It had brand new tires, and 2100 miles on it. These might not seem like reasonable prices to some, but they're perfectly reasonable for this area. You can get some very nice bikes in the Detroit area for sub-$2500 if you keep your eyes peeled. That's part of the reason that Ebay DR doesn't appeal to me. You can get a better bike for less money in my market. Last summer I screwed up, and passed on a '97 DR350SE with 6800 miles on it, for $1600. It had brand new tires on it, and it ran well. If another one comes up at that price, with low miles, I'll snatch it up.
Hello, The bike in question, 99se, was taken off Fleabay by owner. Oh well, we will never know, who cares. Was very clean and sparkley. Heirhead
Looked like it was a shop that was selling it. They must have had a walk in customer who bought it. On another note: Last winter I did a fork swap on my DR350. I put in a pair of dual chamber 49mm Showa conventionals off a 98 RM250. Fork works great but it needs some servicing: new oil, seals, maybe bushings. I have never done this job before. Local shop quoated me a $150 in labor. I could buy the parts or he could. He is basiclly jsut a dude out of his garage. I have done oil changes on the stock dampener rod forks, and serviced FOX mountain bike forks before when I worked as a bike mechanic. I know that I will need a seal driver, but I think that I could get away with standard garage tools for the rest. Should I tackle this job myself. The DR is jsut sitting for the winter and will sit for another 3 months. Anyone have any experiance with these forks. All the write ups I have read do not cover chagning the oil out of the inner chamber, or the bleeding part. I have the DRZ manual. All dual chamber reference have been for USD forks. Thoughts?
Is the RM250 front the same as an RMZ250? Did you have to fab up any parts (bushings) for the steering head? Is the RMZ250 a better choice than the DRZ400?
It really depends on what years you are talking about. I can think of 5 different forks which were on the RM250 over different years. I know knowthing of the RMZ's I think you wanted USD forks which is not what I have. RM250 fork history of what I know. Early 90's they used some USD forks. Was told they were terrible. USB forks were cool. in 96-97 they had 49mm showa coventionals. Our are 43mm. Alot of places say these were dual chamber. But I think they were just single chamber or cartridge forks. I beelieve that these are the same as the DRZ400 forks. in 98 the used a dual chamber 49mm conventional. These are the ones I have. Picture of of the fork caps can be found here. http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/forums/index.php?topic=86066.new#new 99+ they used a USB dual chamber showa, the sliders were still 49mm. Later they dropped the sliders to 46mm(?). The DRZ250 forks are the same as the 97-99 DR350 forks. I swapped out my steering stem to make the swap happen. The good thing about using suzuki stuff is the the bottom press fit dimension of the steering stem seems to be the same on all their "dirt" bikes. You have to swap the stem and can not simple get bearings to make the RM triple/stem work for the DR. The OD/ID combo you woudl need not one that exist. However I recently learned that ALL Balls makes an adaptor kit, which they claim will make a RM stem work in a DR. Must have larger bearing races. . You have a dirt version which makes things a little easier as the indexing roll pin causes issue wtih the pressing of the stem. Some info and pics on the steering stem/bearing swap http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/forums/index.php?topic=87152.0 http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/forums/index.php?topic=87152.0 "the bushing". I found that a 3/4 copper pipe coupler is almost the exact size needed to take up the extra space between the RM top triple and DR stem. I was going to shim the rest of the space with a sliver of beer can material. However I could not even get one wrap of beer can shim in there. I did slide a .25" sliver down length wise.
Sounds like its a bit more complicated than what I want to mess with right now. I may end up buying one of those Husqvarna Terra 650's next year and keeping the DR350 the way it is now.
Got the Acerbis tank installed... they forgot to include the Y fitting for the fuel lines, but I was planning on replacing them anyways with some other line. I can't wait for that Shinko rear tire to wear out and get a real knobby back on there. That stupid $40 tire has 4k miles on it and just wont die.
FWIW, and FYI, im in love with your bike..LOL sorry dood. I think i may have to replicate the look if im allowed. haha. The black on white looks awesome, and that giant CYCLOPS Light its bitchin man. Good job at maintaining and Creating an awesome looking bike!
