Wow this an amazing reference. I just got mine too, and this helps a lot. Anybody have any info on additional sets of rims? I like to run street and knobbies at different times of the year, and had resigned myself to just popping the tires off and switching them around. Without paying 1k a rim, are there any alternatives that fit? Like a 650 GS rim or anything. Thanks for all the effort with this spreadsheet!
Does anyone know a compatible clutch lever that's actually possible to buy cheaply? I know the sheet says it's compatible with the 'ktm lc4', but that doesn't narrow it down, seeing as the LC4 series has been around for over 20 years, and many different bikes are built on it. I'm finding it near impossible to figure out what clutch lever will actually fit, and I can't keep using the one from my xt600 with *kind of* fits.
Probably not much help as this is way off the top of my head but I'm pretty confident I have a 97 LC4 clutch lever. I had to drill the pivot hole on the lever out from 6mm to 8mm to fit the Xch. If you have a drill stand I would use it as the KTM lever has a steel insert for the pivot point and you need to drill it straight. An 8mm hole doesn't leave much metal and if you go through at an angle you could go through the edge of the steel which would probably rip the insert out leaving the hole too large. I also had to remove the plastic from the outside of the clutch cable end. Brake lever is easier as the lever from a honda cb500 twin fits straight on.
Well the xt600e one is less work than that. You have to remove the plastic from the cable end. Everything else fits, but the actuation distance (measure from the pivot to the cable hole) is a few mm shorter than the stock one; it's probably off by 2-3mm. Maybe I'll just take the broken lever into a bike shop and see if they can match it with their pattern book.
Ok, I went into a dealership and bought a pattern clutch lever. The clutch lever they sold me actually had a slightly too small pin dimension (it was a ktm lc4 lever) but it had a pvc bush which was easy to stretch out to the correct size; if you buy an all alloy one then it will need to be drilled. While the dealer was fetching the part from the shelf, I took some photos of the pattern reference book; results: The clutch lever (with the slightly incorrect diameter pin hole) is compatible with: --BMW-- G450X F650 95-99 --APRILIA-- RS125 98-04 RS250 95-03 --CAGIVA-- PLANET 03-06 RAPTOR 600 07 RAPTOR 1000 00-05 --HUSKY-- TE610-E 02-09 TE630 10 SM610 99-00 SM610 07 Also some others, although I didn't get a chance to go through the whole book. The brake lever is supposedly compatible with the Yamaha R6 05-06. Finding an aftermarket lever for that should be easy. For further reference, check the parts sheets at MCS Motorcycle parts (http://www.mcsonline.com.au).
Another follow up. The fan on my bike seized then burnt out (pretty common I think). The cheapest place to buy a fan was from www.rallyshop.pl. The part number is VA69a-a101-87a. It's another part that's common to some Aprilias. Through BMW the fan is a few hundred dollars locally. Shipped all the way from Poland to me in Australia, it was PLN347 - which is about AUD$115 right now. The SPAL distributors in the UK wanted to charge me $85+VAT just for the shipping! The Rallyshop were really helpful as well, language wasn't a big barrier as their English was pretty good. I couldn't figure out the shipping options on their online store so I emailed them and they processed the order manually for me.
Thanks for sharing, macrocephalic! I'll add the fan part number & source to the spreadsheet. I was thinking about getting a backup just to avoid dealing with such a failure in the middle of a long summer trip, especially since I haven't fit a low fender yet, and a mud-clogged radiator would probably force the fan to its limits. Cheers, Al
Mine died in about March, but since it's been winter and mine is a road bike, I've been running it without the fan - only overheated once when I was idling at walking pace for about 40 minutes.
I just updated the parts spreadsheet on comment #17 with some information gracefully shared by khpossum and everyone else on this thread.
Just bought two Aprilia Dorsoduro 750 mirrors for 44 (about $60). They are identical with the OEM BMW,which are $120.
I think the dorso shares a few parts with the G650x. I'm fairly certain it has the same wheels and discs as the xmoto.
That would be interesting. Can you point me to any information where that could be confirmed? I always thought a spare set of wheels would be good for track tires - the xmoto ones go for far too much.
The wheels do look a lot like the XM wheels, they cost 285 euro over here. Not sure about the discs, the XM doesn't have wave discs, I think. The Dorso discs cost 197 euro anyway. But see for yourself:
I'm ordering new wheel bearings c/w drive hub bearings. I notice that the drive hub bearings are shown here to be a different size, but I believe on max's part fiche they are shown to be the same size. Can anyone verify if they are the same size or are they in fact different? Thanks for any help
So has anyone confirmed a clutch lever / perch replacement? All the universal ones I tried did not have a long enough pull.
I have an alternative parts page online for the 650GS, there will be some parts in the list which are common to the 650X http://www.f650gs.crossroadz.com.au/AlternativeParts.html
Ignition switch melted. Solution - buy new scarabeo 50 ignition switch for $39 and canabalize only the parts I wanted. I studied pictures of many Zadi switches and came to the conclusion that they all had the same 8 contacts inside and it was just a question of how many contacts each one used. I bought the Scarabeo 50 (cheapest one from AF1 Racing) and dismantled it. Basically the swap is simple enough that if you have basic mechanical skills you will figure it out. Unscrew (2 Phillips) releasing the wiring pod from the switch on both old and new. Pry off the black cap from the new and clip the two extra wires - you only need the orange and green. cut the molex connector to free the pins. install on the bottom of your existing key switch and swap connectors into the old white connector.