I've got a 92 Yama YSR 50 with a rusted tank. I used Kreem tank liner on it 10 years ago or so and it has went back and started flaking off in the tank. I bought more Kreem and was going to line it again but I cannot get the old Kreem out? I've tried soaking it in Acetone, and I've put a bunch of screws in the tank and shook it around...it's gotten some of it out but there is still alot in there. I've read about some radiator shops being able to "hot dip" a gas tank then re-line it, but apparently they dont do that anymore as every shop I have called said no. I was thinking about calling around and seeing if I could find a shop that could sandblast the inside of the tank that would be great too? And IF I ever get the rust out, should I use Kreem or another better product?
Acetone and a few pounds of drywall screws (lots of sharp edges!) have always worked well for me. Use short screws, they get into the corners better. Let it soak for a while to soften. Resist the urge to re-Keeme it. Just keep the tank close too full when not in use. The small space above the fuel will fill with the gasoline fumes, which will displace the oxygen. No oxygen, no rust. Good luck, Bob P.S. Once the bulk of the Kreeme is out, take your screws, tank and a few old pillows/blankets to the local laundrymat. Leave the acetone at home. Stuff the tank into the center of the dryer, pack the pillows/whatever around it to keep it centered, put it on the low/no heat cycle and let the machine polish the inside of your tank. Take some beer.
About the only way to really remove old coatings is with paint stripper, or if you can physically reach it use picks, awls, and paint scrapers. These are too big for a motorcycle tank obviously, but for larger things that you can get your hand and arm into I've found the "5 in 1 painters tool" to be the handiest for getting old sealant out of fuel tanks: You can use pressure washers and steam cleaners, but I'd suggest resisting the urge to use sandblasters or radiator hot tanks as what happens is you will remove whatever coating was originally applied (i.e. tin) to the inside to resist rust in the first place. The other concern I have for abrasive measures inside the tank (screws, nuts & bolts, BB's, gravel, piece of chain,etc ) is they can cause holes where there were none before but there was thin metal. Most all sealers will seal pinholes but when you all of a sudden create a hole that you can stick your little finger in, it needs to have a backing before sealing. Back when all tanks were steel I'd cut out a sheet metal patch and solder it over the hole, if I had one now I'd probably just epoxy a patch instead of solder. Regarding what product to use, not to spam the forum but I recently put a can of the only product I use anymore for sale in the classifieds: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=730963 (Not here to pimp my stuff, but this is what I'd recommend either way to a question about sealing tanks, I just happen to have a can I'm not going to use any time soon and it does have a shelf life which is why I'm selling it at half price) Either way, good luck! GM
POR15 sells a potion for the specific purpose of removing failed Kreem. http://www.por15.com/HD-CYCLE-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/HDCTRK/ Kreem is nothing but krap. I've seen POR15 work very well many times.
I take them to a commercial paint stripping company. They come back with bright shiny bare metal. No paint/sealer, no rust.
I've now cleaned/sealed over 200 tanks. I'll no longer "redo" the ones that have the trash called "Kreem" inside. The best remover is MEK, methyl ethyl ketone, or methyl ethyl DEATH. Nasty stuff. If you choose to use it, put a plastic bag over your head and tape it closed; just kidding, but use it outdoors, and be aware that it is capable of melting multiple brain cells. Since the gvmt is into everything else, it'd be good if they'd ban Kreem.
