New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

Thanks guys. I might do the external fuel filter and ca cycle works pump at the same time as the injector.

I'm using the mild map with the KTM alloy slip on can.

I did the throttle reset and 15min idle this morning and went for a run and didn't get any problems but, better safe than sorry - I'll do the injector.

I suggest dealing with this issue one step at a time. It will simplify any troubleshooting.
When you do the filter look at how you want to clean up the hoses inside.
I used 2 x 12" pieces of the submersible fuel line. This eliminated all of the plastic line. It was a royal PITA to get the clamps to fit. However, I was successful. For the external filter choose a location that suits you. Some just replace the inline valve. I replace all the lines and relocated my filter to a location accessible without tearing stuff apart.

Yes, I do! I am a huge fan of the Motion Pro T6 forged aluminum tire levers. They come in a bunch of different sizes

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...T-6-Combo-Lever?term=motion+pro+t6+tire+lever

I also purchased their bead breaker thing, which works great on stiff-sidewall tires (i.e. dirt tires). Soft sidewall (i.e. street tires) not so much.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...-Tire-Bead-Breaker-and-Lever-Tool-Set?ref=sho

Regarding air pressure, I have a neat little Crank Brothers bicycle pump. Works great for pumping up tube tires, but you're not going to seat the bead with a tubeless tire with this, that's for sure.

http://www.crankbrothers.com/pumps_alloy.php

Looks like I finally got bit by the KTM electrical gremlins. 15k miles. Not bad for a 690.

Funny how once you've drank the orange KoolAide that we make allowances... ... because it is simply unthinkable that, say, a DR650 would need to be trailered home at that mileage.

I rode into the city a couple nights ago, and it ran fine. I went to go home, and it fired briefly, stumbled and quit. Then it wouldn't fire at all.

I got it home (thanks Kenyon!) and decided to replace the wonky quick disconnect fitting since it had been causing problems. I found a 3/8" splice kit at the automotive parts place and put that in place of the fitting. No joy.

I couldn't commit any further diagnostic time to it, but anticipate a fuel pump replacement is in my near future.

Can anyone provide a link to relevant posts regarding relocating the rear indicators when removing the large numberplate holder? I want to still use the original indicators. Do you simply drill new holes?

Probably fuel related but check the blade connectors on the coil. I doubt it is that but easy to check. Mine gave me some fuel starvation symptoms and it was poor coil connection.

from my little reading - clean the injector as a first step, no?

I want to know more about this !!!!

I know RR was testing a new shock 275 mm travel!!!!
will it match up with my 300mm front forks?
How much $$$ How soon can I get one ???
I am going to start working on a 690/450 mod this would be a great thing

Sure you saw this. Rally version lists 300mm rear travel.

http://www.rally-raidproducts.co.uk/blog/2013/05/tractive-suspension-shocks-in-production/

Last September I ordered rbott's 2" risers and Scotts damper, but then got hit with a bunch of travel for work and no time to ride. Work has eased off a bit, so this past weekend I found the time to install both and go for a short street ride. Wow! When seated I don't really notice a huge difference, but I can finally stand without being hunched over too far and always fighting for balance. I didn't even notice the damper (set at eight turns out, per the manual).

I'm heading up to the Lost Coast this coming weekend to do some motorcycle camping so I should get a better feel for these bits soon, but first impressions are great!

The install was pretty straight-forward, although I did have to search the forum here for how to re-route (rotate, really) the throttle cables. Having the throttle grip rotated 180° is bothering my O/C, but it's time for new grips anyway so I figure I can fix that soon enough. :) I took my time with a Dremel cut-off wheel to trim the plastic shroud around the ignition switch and I think it turned out OK.

The only thing I've noticed is that the pin slot on the damper interferes with the ignition key when the handlebars are locked to the left and I'm trying to remove the key. Not a big deal, and some trimming of the key would eliminate the issue.


KTM 690E riser and stabliizer by sobiloff, on Flickr

I had the same issue when I installed the Scotts post on mine. I did some filing off of some material on the post. It was causing the key unit to cock back at an angle. I think it was where the post was contacting the frame tubes up top. I took off some material on both sides so it was able to lay flat without contact.

You can see the flats I filed into the sides in this pic.

Same problem I have when standing. Can I ask how tall you are?

Seeking the knowledge.

I just got done riding the Pamir highway and i'm in Dushanbe now. About 50 times today I am riding and the bike starts to run like shit. It gets really loud, backfires a lot and shows the FI fault. I turn the bike off, turn it back on and it runs great for the next 5 hours or 3 seconds and everywhere in between. I had this problem 1 time in Croatia about 10,000 km ago and not again till yesterday evening.

9x long. "Throttle valve position not plausible"

Its looking like I need to run through the TPS adjustment? I am really hoping I don't need new parts.

Is anybody using this mount?
http://www.scottsonline.com/Stabili...&Year=2010&Size=690&Fred= Enduro&BI_ID=169137

The Scott's rubber SUB mount. Are there any opinions about it?

I broke my lower bar clamps in a high speed crash in the desert around thanksgiving, and had been considering a submount to go with my Scott's that had been sitting on my work bench anyway, so I bought the BRP rubber mounted SUB mount. Very clean looking (especially with the Fastway FIT handgaurds that I traded from my other bike) and straight forward install. I won't lie and tell you that I can tell a difference in vibration in my hands, but I can see out of the mirrors on my dual sport much more clearly so the rubber mount had to of reduced vibrations.

To be fair, I never really noticed much vibration in the bars on this bike to begin with. I don't notice the Scott's anymore either but I sure notice when I turn it off, so I may have just got used to it.

If I get on the bike while it is up on the stand, I can push down on one side or the other of the bars and see that they are "flexing" with the rubber mounts. That tells me that they can deflect/absorb shock similar to (but not in quite the same manner as) how Flexx bars do. It does not feel like the same mushy rubber bar mount design that my Honda's had which allowed the bars to twist left to right in relation to the forks. The BRP RMSUB also keeps the stabilizer solid mounted which in theory would improve it's responsiveness.

I looked at it as another small improvement in suspension, kind of like race car builders look for 100 places to loose 1lb vs 1 place to lose 100lbs... very small incremental gains that may go unnoticed alone but add up to a substantial improvement.

...Oh yeah, and I just liked the way it looks!

I can also attest to it's durability. I ate it in the snow going ~40mph earlier this year and I "jogged it out" (I stepped off the bike on the way down and proceeded to jog away while the bike took a nap in some trailside rubble) while laying the bike down on the right side a few months ago. Neither were particularly bad crashes but the bars stayed right were they should have. My buddy's Husky didn't fair quite as well, he took almost identical spills on the same 2 rides and both resulted in us having to unbolt upper and lower bar mounts to realign and then retighten. The time in the snow actually bent one of his through bolts that hold the bar mount to the top triple so he just dealt with it for the rest of the ride and replaced the bolt when he got home. In other words, this rubber mounting works much better than most factory rubber mounted bar setups.

The ONLY thing that I don't like is that I cannot slide my forks up in the clamps very far (11mm including the cap) but that probably isn't an issue in most applications. I 100% recommend this setup!

I'm getting some dust getting past the UNI foam filter installed in my 690 in the same way I suspect it leaks past the paper filter. I greased the sides heavily and will give it one more go.

If after my next ride I still find the fine dust on the sides of the box I'll be looking for a new solution. Is the Rally Raid the way to go to solve this?

I suspect the grease will resolve your issue. I keep 2 of the foam filters, the UNI from KTMtwins, and the orange version from hard parts. I swapped them out last week and certainly found dust on the top side of the UNI where the snorkel dumps air into the filter, but the airbox under the filter had no dirt at all. I used a liberal coating of waterproof grease on the lower mating surface of the filter to help seal it.

Is this the same problem that Luke had with the bike???

Voltage Regulator??? Page 69 of Luke's 25,000 miles thread...

Ok, Has anyone found the part number for a generic Fuel injector for the 690 as I wanted to have one of those for a spare.

It looks like I waited a bit too long to order a spare fuel pump as they are out of stock just about everywhere and my trip starts on 17 ~ 21 June...

I guess i'll be checking that tomorrow. Thanks man. I knew there was a reason I swapped in a Yami R1 regulator into my bike that was stolen. Fooking pikeys!