R60/5 rebuild nears completion – with some puzzles. . .

Superb work and detailing.

The easiest way I have found to torque the output flange is to clamp the bar of the special tool in a vise.

You have a Trident, too?

I always put a fork tube over the puller's bar and put the fork tube against my stomach and then pull the torque wrench towards me. The tranny can be setting loose on a bench on two 2x4's and it will set there just fine. Same deal with busting that nut loose but instead of my torque wrench I use my breaker bar and another fork tube.

Mmmmm...sort of thought you were going to be a bit more...um...thorough.

I can see skipping the horn and gas lines, who needs 'em? right? But are you really planning to show your face in public with the thing without properly indexing the dipstick? I suppose you could wear real dark sunglasses....



BTW, what are you holding the right side cover on with?

No, the Trident is a distant memory as will this toaster be probably soon after its completion. You have prompted me to come clean and adjust my signature, though.

That's not me in the photo of the two guys loosening that output flange nut. When I saw that photo, and the expressions on their faces, I was convinced I didn't have the tools to do the job properly. BTW - excellent use for old fork tubes!

They don't make sunglasses dark enough to hide my shame. You don't miss a thing. I guess I was so overwhelmed by an actual NICE DAY in Vancouver, I forgot to complete the illusion of a completed bike. No matter - I was suitably punished for my trickery when the rivet on the gas cap seal was, in a poltergeist-like moment, suddenly spat into the gas tank (or was it the heat from the sun that caused the expansion of the pot metal?).

Like many things on this expensive lawn ornament, the right side cover is held on with hope.

Mind sharing that wire routing diagram? Been looking for one for a while.

Sure -

http://www.stephenbottcher.net/BMW/R755-Dateien/Restauration/wiring.htm

I found Stephen's site to be quite helpful. He gives credit to the respective authors on his website. He may be an ADV inmate. Stephen, if you're watching, thank you.

You're welcome ... working on a R60/5 engine myself that started with an completety empty block so this thread is subscribed. One never knows what one might learn!

Stephen

You're the jam! Finally!
Stephen, you're my hero.

Whoa. That has to be some of the neatest headlight bucket wiring I've eve seen. And a good diagram.

--Bill

I have the diagrams and pictures in higher resolution, just go here:

http://www.stephenbottcher.net/BMW/R755-Dateien/Restauration/wiring_files/

I included links to the higher resolution pictures in the original document as well.

Glad the information is of use. The guys at 5united are awesome!

The wiring in the headlight bucket seems to be the final hurdle but of course instead of focusing on that, I chose to play with the gas tank which had a couple of minor chips that were really bugging me. Didn't have any more black paint so I shot the tank with some metallic silver I found in my shop. A couple of coats of clear and it looks like this -



Purists will not be pleased.

I'm debating whether I should do the fenders the same colour. Still no plans to pin stripe. Your opinions always welcome.

Mmm...no, We are not pleased.

You should be doing ride reports by now. The bucket wiring is easy, getting it neat is not. So go light on the neat.

Chipping on the extreme front edge of the tank is always a problem. A small trip of plastic edging (Dunno what to call the stuff, it's folded over metal filled plastic edging to trim panels) can be applied temporarily when removing and replacing the tank. Or use a rag.

You're doing exactly what I am. I keep putting off the headlight wiring crap and messing with the tank.

At least you probably still have your fuse assembly. I have to hunt one down.

But at least many have gone this way before - and some had the sense to take pictures. (I didn't but that was in 1984 when film was expensive.)



Almost done and I substituted new fuse mounts - way better. Very messy so will make Plaka happy (he's a little down on himself today.)

In 1973, in europe and Canada, these tanks came with knee pads and badges with striping and no chrome panels. The rubber mount under the badge had beveled edges that enclosed the badge and hid the bump on the tank that the badge is mounted on. These rubbers would look really good on your tank. Only problem is these were a one year only part and I can't locate any parts books that have them listed. Sadly, I only have one, not a pair.

Pokie, you may have inadvertently solved one puzzle but created another.

I seem to recall the bike having the toaster panels on the tank but maybe it's just a phantom memory. I know that tanks with panels have small mounting brackets spot welded to them - I thought I must have done a remarkable job of grinding them off years ago because there was no trace of them. Here's the kicker, though - even though I still have the original rubber spacers, the mounting screws for the roundels are too long. They are definitely the original screws.

If you have a chance, can you take a pic of the part you described? Thanks.

Here are some close-ups of the rubber "gasket".





The longer screws were for the chrome side panels. This gasket takes the regular, short screws.

Thanks for the pics, Pokie. I'm betting they call those things 'bezels' . You're right - they do make for a neater installation. Will try scaring a couple up as a future project. Wonder why BMW lumped Canada with Europe in '73 - strange, isn't it?

Only a couple more connections in the headlight bucket and I can button it up. Time for a new battery - is there consensus out there? Mine is the SWB.

Odyssey battery is the cream of the crop. Or if you're feeling like you want to shed some weight, research some Lithium Ion batteries.

Thanks Blaine for cutting to the chase - I didn't want to set off a firestorm. By the way, what oil do you think I should use?