Yeah, with a sick seat and some comfy ergos, he'll yes! I would even go for a trick oil injection system and DI.
Good info here Schultz. I especially like your recommendation to change oil weights first. It's easy and relatively cheap. Going to a heavier oil raises and steepens the damping curve. Lighter drops and flattens it. As for after market valving bodies,, the theory behind them is (Race Tech's anyway) that the shim stack should do almost all of the damping. If the bodies end up providing any damping, you end up getting essentially an orifice type damping (ancient tech). Works okay with slow speed damping, horrible with high speed damping. Think about whacking the end of a syringe with your hand versus pushing it slowly.
Have I got problems if I think about riding certain bikes as much as I do, say, the Mercury girl? Now that I've thought about it, I would rather ride the Mercury girl than any bike save for a 500cc GP bike.
Well said. Sometimes engineers are so well educated, they become...well fools. A great driver or rider who is articulate enough enough to communicate things with engineers can tell them things they can't always predict with measurements. Sometimes they can recursively explain things the rider perceives, sometimes not. This subjective perception has driven a lot of audio innovation. Talented listeners can hear things that often take engineers a while to understand or develop measurements for. Einstein supposedly said something like, not everything that is measurable is important, and not everything that is important is measurable.
On the stock bike, then rear is over damped and the fork is sprung for a 115lb. rider. The rear is workable, the front is under sprung for anyone who could pick up the bike.
Yeah...just trying to catch up....I get busy and don't read for a couple days, then I get board. I don't chase girls on Friday nights anymore (it was fun though)...so what am I to do? Aside from emails here and there this is my social network, and I can't get motivated to go in the garage. Don't worry your post count is safe The carb you're sending me to try, I'm not so sure
I just finished putting on the xr 600 exhaust on my L. The exhaust is missing the end cap. I just had on in the garage, that thing barks loud. Tomorrow am taking on it 45 mile freeway, 18 miles of twisty canyon roads, and about 20 miles of fire roads. I will be taking earplugs just in case.
You should always wear earplugs regardless. Although it may not seem like its loud in your helmet, even at freeway speeds. The noise level can exceed 100db depending on the helmet. You may not notice it right away, but prolonged exposure will damage your hearing. Just sayin.
Thanks for the input! From what I understood back when I was working with that stuff more often the piston ports are the "end all be all" of oil flow as you describe with the syringe, even the gold valves will create the same condition if moved through there travel fast enough. Depending on your condition in theory If your experiencing too much High speed compression you can just drill the stock piston ports to a larger size and then adjust your shim stack accordingly to account for the higher volume of oil allowing to flow through the piston ports. Just saying this crap for discussions sake not knocking the fine products over at race tech or the services your local suspension guy offers! I just tend to be DYI to a fault at times
Hehehe hit the nail on the head there, I have been working with the engineering community for over 10 years now.
How complicated is it to take the swingarm off and put it back on? Will I have to wrestle with the rear shock (compress it or something) to reassemble it? My bike lift is a floor jack with a piece of wood on it to go under the bash plate. If I do take it off, I assume I should either re-grease or replace a couple parts while I'm in there right? What will need attention? I want to paint it, but I'm trying to decide if it's worth the hassle.
Unless your swingarms badly scarred/scraped up, or you know you need to replace some parts in it, I wouldn't pull it just to paint. Its a dirt bike, its nice to have them look good within reason, but unlike a streetbike, they're going to fall over plenty, get scratched/scraped up from brush/tree's/rocks etc. Plus your painted swingarm will scratch up and peel faster than you'd like......you need to powdercoat it if you want to color it. If you want something pretty to ride that you can make look sweet, and keep it sweet, get a streetbike My streetbikes look pristine.....my xrl looks good, but I don't worry NEAR as much about its looks as my streetbikes. Personally I'd get a couple of cool swingarms stickers, slap them on and be happy......thats what I just did
Should have specified I'm not going for 'pretty', I'm going for 'someday I want to paint my bike in flat khaki or military colors because I don't like neon motorcycles and shiny metal, but the plastics seem like a lot of work so I'll start with the easy bits like the bottoms of the forks and swingarm.' You're right though, I do need to pick up a cheap old Magna or Madura or something so I can fuck around with paint schemes and rat styles.
It is not that big of a deal and you should take everything off once in a while to clean and check all of the bearing. You'll want to take off the tank (to get to the seat) and the seat to make it possible to get to the upper shock bolt. I did a how-to thread over on TT about removing the shock. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/94...eplace/page__hl__+shock +removal#entry9885700 It will give you an idea of what it involves. Bear in mind, you dont have to remove the shock, but I would just to clean and inspect everything. At the end my series of picture on the htread, you would only be left with loosening and removing the swingarm bolt.
Youre a Technician. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> Then Ill need to make my case in much, simpler terms.<o></o> It is like driving a truck without a steering wheel trying to make adjustments to something that cannot be accurately measured. You are just ambling along swerving from one ditch to the other. Knowing more precisely where you are allows you to position your truck where you want it to be in the lane.<o></o> Why would ANYBODY, let alone a technician, go to the trouble to measure sag? To even get close you need an assistant. It just struck me like a bolt of lightning, more Technicians need, job security.<o></o> All you need is the bike on a stand and a metal ruler to measure spring length and the measurement will be spot on. <o></o> <o> </o>
