the art of engine

My red brick after a complete rebuild and getting ready to plug it back into my 1800S. Before and after.





GT 40 engine at the Cobra Museum in Boulder.




In Situ



429





SAAB Rally car

Actually that's an FE Series engine - most likely a 428 between the fenders of what looks to be a Shelby GT 500 Mustang.

The GT-40 engine up top has a reproduction Shelby block. You can tell because the Shelby blocks have two side bolts per cap, where original Ford 427 blocks only have one.

Yeah I know... Call me the Klay of Ford engines. I'm a detail Nazi - Eeet must be correckt!

The quick way to tell if it is an FE engine is to look at the intake manifold and valve covers. The FE intake goes under the valve covers. If the valve covers are off you can see the pushrod holes going through the intake and not the head. Very distinctive feature of the FE. Same if it is the little 332 or the big 428.

I appreciate the correction. I didn't have information on that engine but the photos were from my visit to the Shelby Cobra Museum in Boulder - a wondrous place for motor heads.

https://102449.smugmug.com/Other/Shelby-Museum/16640211_wPj3xT

My take on the double crossbolts is that the block is aluminum and needs the extra support because the skirt isn't as strong as cast iron.

At the time that Ford was competing with these engines, I was working for the company in a research area. I saw the 3 valve heads that would have gone to LeMans if the French hadn't changed the rules to prohibit the big engines. The flow lab boss said they were flowing 550 CFM per cylinder.

^^^^ Kaase!! ^^^^

http://www.jonkaaseracingengines.com/ Plenty of engine porn on there. That's an easy 750 HP on pump gas, with plenty of vacuum to run power brakes, etc.

Those things are da bomb!

Yep, it's a piston out of a Ingersol Rand KVS 26CT Engine. This one was over limits on out of round and was pulled. The bare piston weighs 400lbs so it makes a nice solid vice stand.

Here's a few pics.

The piston has two threaded holes in the dome of the piston that are used for attaching a pulling tool to remove the piston from the engine. I just cut a piece of plate and drilled two holes so I could attach the plate to the piston with bolts....worked great.




This is the KVS 26 engine, it's rated at 1000 HP at 330 RPM and drives two integral double acting compressors. This engine is used to compress natural gas on a pipeline and is the smallest engine/compressor on the pipeline.




Inside the KVS crank case taking crank thrust readings. The power rods are removed in this pic so the power pin is wrapped in cardboard to keep it from getting scratched.




Here's a few pics of one of the larger units, It's a Clark 12 Cyl two cycle engine driving three double acting compressors, it's rated at 4500 HP at 300 RPM.









I have more pictures of the Clark here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ight=hodakaguy

Hodakaguy <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

Two of the best arguments I've seen for LOTO.

I'd like to see what they do to torque the rod bolts....

Hodakaguy posted these pic's in the Westy re-build thread. He works in the industry by the sounds of it. Seriously large engines!

Hydraulic nuts or bolt tensioners most likely.

I want that vice stand!

Cheers
Clint

I want one of those pistons also

if those are two stroke Ports...I wanta see the reed cage and chambers.

A little porting and some expansion chambers and that thing will make some real power.

The rod bolts are tightened with an impact gun or Hi-Tork (hydraulic torquing device). The bolts are tightened using bolt stretch opposed to torque, torque is easily affected by thread condition and proper lubrication....bolt stretch eliminates these variables.

The rod bolts have a dimple on each end, before you start the tightening process you measure the rod bolt length to the nearest thousands using a bolt stretch gauge (basically a long micrometer that spans the bolt and has pointed ends that fit into the dimples). You then start tightening the bolts, then measure with the bolt stretch gauge again and repeat until you reach the required amount of bolt stretch on the bolt.

You can see the dimples on one end of the bolt in this picture, right below the cotter key.



Hodakaguy

That right there is cool. I've got a valve out of some unknown large engine (the valve by itself is slightly larger in dia. than a 460 ford piston) I show my students just for conversations sake. Would love to have a trashcan sized piston to show them that they could compare to their Briggs 3.5 horse piston.

The rod bolts have a dimple on each end, before you start the tightening process you measure the rod bolt length to the nearest thousands using a bolt stretch gauge (basically a long micrometer that spans the bolt and has pointed ends that fit into the dimples). You then start tightening the bolts, then measure with the bolt stretch gauge again and repeat until you reach the required amount of bolt stretch on the bolt.

There's access to measure then on each end of the bolt when installed?

Yep, the gauge is basically a long bar (around 2' long or so in this case) that has a arm on each end that reaches over the ends on the bolts, The top end is fixed, the bottom end has the micrometer built in. It can be a pain to get it in the dimples on the back side, sometimes a combo of feel and a inspection mirror

Here's a example of a small bolt stretch gauge, ours doesn't use a dial indicator (micrometer instead) but functions the same, only on a larger scale.



Hodakaguy