Get a 530, can do whatever you want to them and be cheaper too. :) Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Have you ridden anyone's 500 with the unrestricted Euro map? They run fantastic. You can also monkey with the TPS voltage settings (documented in this thread) for a little better personalization. You're here in the SE where dealers will load the firmware for you, unlike some CA dealers that are concerned about it. I "only" have the 350 with the Euro map and typical desmog and the mapping is spot on. I am not going back to a carb after experiencing what good FI feels like. Besides, the '08 -'11 motors, while fine for 99% of us, would not hold up under extreme racing conditions, and that is why they didn't stick around like the RFS design did for so long. YMMV.
Wilmar13 just keep in mind the JD tuner does not allow any changes to the ignition side of things in regards to tuning.
A couple of questions, sir: == Are you running the stock exhaust? == If not, what brand/model are you using? == Did you try the 350 XCF-W (US) FI map first? == Have you notice any reduction in your gas mileage with the EU map? Thanks! E-Ticket
Stock exhaust with the perforated restrictor removed. Did not try the either the stock EXC-F map or the XCF-W (US); bike was set up by the dealer with the Euro map for me when I picked it up. Seat of the pants dyno, I felt my bike pulled better than the 350XCF-W demo bike I tried, but that bike had a lot of hard, hard miles on it. DS riding, I get 45 - 53 MPG. That's mostly gravel FS roads with the throttle pinned out of the corner . Hard to say what it would get in the tight woods. With the 13L tank, I can go 100 miles and still know I have 40 or 50 miles to find gas. Around here, that's all the peace of mind I need.
I guess one more thought. I see where the perception is that the euro map might be richer than needed with the stock muffler, and you might lose a little power by having the A/F mixture richer than ideal. But, all other things being equal, an engine "jetted" richer is going to run a little cooler and in theory last a little longer. I'll take that.
I run the unrestricted EU map with map switch. Definitely not too rich. Also run the JD tuner and had to richen all settings from standard to avoid flame outs and get engine to run as it should. Perfect now. Have standard exhaust with noise mesh removed.
I just spent 3 days in the oregon desert with a desmogged cali bike. JD tuner, 14/48 and stock exhaust. I'm an ok rider and the bike is still waayyy better than me.
I bought a PMB kickstand and installed it this weekend. Looks sweet. It sure is close to the swingarm! About jetting and mods. I rode mine bone stock with all smog stuff on it. It is a 2013 500 EXC. Then I pulled off the smog stuff and rode it with the stock mapping. Then I rode it with the Euro map installed. Then I added a trail tech switch. Every step of the way, it got better. At some point the screen on the end of the silencer tried to fall off so I took it out. The gearing is way too high stock. I am running 14:50 and it seems about right for dual sport. I have a 13 to try for trails. It was lean at first in stock form. Now it is fantastic. I just did a 1330 mile dual sport ride in Nevada where we climbed over a ton of 9000 foot passes. The bike performed flawlessly. I did not even have to add oil. Most of the time I was running in the Mild setting to try to save fuel. I am having a hard time understanding why anyone would want to do all this JD jet stuff or change the exhaust. It is great the way it is. More power than is needed. Always more left for when I need a little extra. Lugs down super low. I still have not had this flameout issue I keep reading about. Maybe it will come up when I am trying to do more tight singletrack. I am wondering if people are trying to idle the engine too low. It is supposed to idle pretty fast.
Thank you very much to all for the information! When I need to change the slider I will post my experience as well
Just adjusted my TPS sensor using the awesome Suzuki test plug. Having the right tool for the job sure makes life easier. It was still a challenge because of the sensitivity of the adjustment. As someone else already noted, it jumps around as you tighten the locking screw. Took me plenty of tries to end up at.609. The factory setting was .592. Even tightened down, you can make the reading move a little by pushing on the sensor. Anyway, too wet to ride, but I did start it up. Came off of the enrichener faster than normal, felt like maybe it was spinning up faster when snapping the throttle. It's all seat of the pants until someone puts one on the dyno and fiddles with it. What part of the map does the TPS sensor effect? Again, seat of the pants, feels like the effect we used to get by advancing the ignition timing a little back in the dark ages of carburetors :eek1
- Has anyone verified that the suzuki test leads provide the same voltage read from the computer with the KTM diagnostic tester? - Does the idle screw setting effect the TPS reading? Carl
Just a quick note to help ya'll that's worried about the subframe breaking. On the weekend I was out for a ride and ran into a hiker that was off course and needed a ride back. Chucked him on the back and rode about 10km of off road trails without an issue. My guess he was 190-200lbs. Good thing it was stronger than I thought. Yes I know it's not perfect science but thought the info might help someone who does a little touring.
I would think the Suzuki cable would give a better reading than using a powrler supply as you are using the bike power to supply the tps. Not sure if the readings are spot on compared to the KTM tool as I do not have one but like the way mine runs at .640. I have the euro map and fmf full system de-smogged. I really like how mine runs with this setup and 14-50 gears but am curious what the JD tuner adds? Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
I ask this because on my old Husky the idle speed adjustment knob DID effect the closed position of the throttle and the TPS voltage. Also, the spec in the manual for the TPS voltage is as read by the KTM diagnostic tester. If there is a difference reading it with a wiring harness splitter, that might have some significance?
Most early info said .610 but I have seen several posts referencing .640 as better. I tried .610 and still had a bit of hesitation when hitting the throttle from idle. I bumped it to .640 and the hesitation was much improved. So I am leaving at .640 but who knows, .900 may be spinal tap nirvana Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
Took the 500 out to Colorado for some skid plate testing . If you need a right side wing look around the steep section of Black Bear Pass. Looks like this KTM part was only welded on the bottom? Something I read when putting the bike together a year a go but I'm old and like shiny metal. Looks like the left side is about to go as well. That's what I did to the right side on Chinaman Loop and finished it off 3 days later in Ouray. After loosing a wing off my skid I open to plastic or carbon suggetions. Prefering the best out there to make up for my lack of rock avoiding skills . Anyone running this brand? http://www.ktm-parts.com/KTM-1850.html Scorpion HD Skid Plate
