KTM LC8 Air Filter Kits by SW7

Not a problem as i am not in a hurry. i can check in next week. I would prefer to run the "regular" version so as not to have to cut my stacks, etc. Thanks for the quick reply! Your setup looks really good.

Thanks, SW. Nice kit, well done.

Are you going to offer a kick start kit for the LC8?

950 kits back in stock. Get'em while they're hot.

More 990 kits are in the works.

Thanks GP. Hope you enjoy it!

Just had surgery on the leg, I'll have to pass on the kick start.

Thanks for the great deal and looking out for me Chris!! Another Happy Customer!!

Bike runs fantastic with your baseline recommended jetting, runs better than it ever has!

Great Chuck!

It took over a hundred jetting combos to get to that Holy Grail combo. Huge pleasure to know its working out for you.

I'm in the middle of installing this on my 990 SMT and have a couple of questions.

The plate with grommets goes right on the throttle bodies and the velocity stacks hold it in place, correct? Any grease at this junction advised?

Regarding the crankcase breather, why wouldn't I remove that last length of hose and fasten the breather filter directly to the check valve?

On the SMT, no biggie with breather height. ADV and SE hitting high water would want it high. I'm partial to running a line from the pcv valve to above the countershaft. I'm working of finding just the right tubing to include with the next batch of kits...to make it complete.

A little grease is recommended at the mounting surface and where the velocity stacks clamp. Also put a thin bead around the filter seal. Enjoy! Let me know how it works out!

On the SMT, attaching the breather filter to the pcv valve puts it at pretty much the same height as the adapter plate.

True.

What is the Holy Grail combo? I am at 100 ft, cannister and SAS removed with Wings and db killers?
TIA
Chatleyg

I'm supposed to be taking it easy due to a medical issue, but SportingWood's air filter has been sitting there for 2 weeks and my Dr. doesn't read AdvRider, so out to the garage.

Off with these bits (easy to do, but sometimes not so easy to get back on, but in my case no problem since I have studs for the crash bars and thru bolts for the lower tank mounts).



Next, the tanks need to come off (need an oil change? now's the time). I have an oil drain tube, so I'll do that another time.



Now that the tanks are off your bike might look like:



Next you need to remove the snorkel (if you have one) and the air box top, crankcase breather and ambient air temperature sensor (I unscrewed the sensor since you need to install it on the air cleaner base later) giving you something like:



You also have to remove the velocity stacks and paper air filter. You will use the velocity stacks to hold the new filter base plate on later.

Now you have some fiddly issues to deal with. Take off the air box side covers, loosen the fuel line from the FI fuel rail and release the FI electrical connector on the right side of the frame. This one is always a bitch on my bike. I have to move my second fan and shroud and the radiator catch bottle to loosen the connector.



Next loosen the top hose clamp holding both throttle bodies and lift them up and out of the way. I zip tie them to the handlebars. You don't have to disconnect the throttle cables.

Then you should loosen the bottom clamp for each throttle body boot and remove the boots. Finally, lift the air box bottom up off the intake tubes and your bike might look like:



(Need to check valve clearance? Now's maybe the time. Loosen the radiator mounts and oil tank moving those forward for additional room for the front cylinder.)

Next you can reinstall the throttle body boots, tightening the bottom clamps.



Now you can lower the throttle body assembly back onto the boots and tighten the top clamps. I oriented the clamps so all connections could be accessed from the same side, but this is not necessary since we are not working through a air box side hole anymore. This is also a good time to check/adjust the throttle cables. Keener pointed out that these should be pointed to the rear so you can remove the carbs/throttle bodies without taking off the tanks. Great idea Keener.



Now you are almost ready for the SW's neat stuff. First install the ambient air temperature sensor in the filter base plate using the supplied hardware. You can now slip the base over the throttle bodies. Note that the Dzus connectors should be on the right and the temp sensor towards the front. The
velocity stacks are used to hold the base plate in place and compress SW's neat rubber rings giving a tight seal and firm attachment of the base plate.



Now you should oil up the filter (I use NoToil, but they say not to use NoToil cleaner - I usually use dish soap or laundry detergent when cleaning my other foam filters) and put a heavy ring of filter oil or grease around the edge of the base plate to insure proper seal. After the filter is in place it might look like:



I used a UNI UP-124 filter on the crankcase breather and zipped it to the frame.





I wanted to check the clearance between the seat bottom and the rear edge of the filter.



It's close, but the seat does not compress the filter top. Now put the tanks, and plastic bits and crash bars back on and ride. I need to find a source for filter skins to use on longer rides in dusty conditions.

I had already done the canister removal and SAS removal. If you have not done that, then you need to either do that or deal with where you will mount the SAS plumbing which used to be attached to the rear of the air box.

My bike has Wings cans with small size spark arrestors/DB reducers. Before installing the air filter, I ran the stock 2007 map and the bike ran well but border line lean giving around 44 MPG when running on pavement at speed. It will need another map to accommodate the new air filter. In a later post I will give some details of what I plan to do with TuneECU.

I just installed mine today.

What a great upgrade! I have fought the stock air box on my 950 and 990 and have the skinned knuckles to prove it! This setup really opens things up and provides MUCH easier access for jetting, plug change and valve adjustment. And the weight reduction is always a good thing.

As 50 year dirt bike guy, I am more than comfortable with the foam filter. Beats $40 for a paper filter from KTM!

It runs pretty darn well as is. But I am going to tune with Tune ECU tomorrow. Looking forward to seeing what it will do!

FWIW

Great step by step DirtJack!

Would you mind if I copied it to the 1st or 2nt post in this thread so its easier for folks to find?

Just try to keep the front wheel on the ground and out of the tree limbs. Glad its working well for you. Let me know how the mapping goes.

I went through a few iterations with the stock air box and different maps in an attempt to iron out the twitchiness around 4k under low load that vexed me in the city.

Installed the JC30-80 on my SMT on Sunday. I tried a new trick where the front velocity stack is an RC8 unit and the rear is stock and loaded a modified map for a similar configuration. The bike now happily pulls from 2500 RPM and is much easier to use in low gears at 4k. I'm very pleased with the result even if my local tuner can't improve on it.

The one aspect I'd like to see improved is a reshaped beveled edge to slip under the air filter's tab a little easier.

Before I put it on the bike it took a fair amount of force to get the filter centered on the plate but when dealing with an oiled filter between frame rails, I couldn't get the same alignment. It seems attached well enough with the plate nested within the filter rim but it's off to one side and I worry the tab doesn't have enough bite.

That's an interesting trick, UC. I wonder what the reasoning is for it? The rear intake track is considerably longer than the front and I know on the carburetored bikes, this is some of the reasoning why the factory fitted a 2 size fatter main jet to the rear jug. I did a lot of o2 testing comparing the same mains, one step, and two step mains comparing o2 from either end. I always found that they seemed to run fine with identical mains, making the same afr. I wonder if the injection map treats the cylinders differently? Btw, 4000 rpm is where these things have always fallen flat on their face. Its where emissions testing is done....

Regarding the squared edge, I like it better than the beveled version. I used to bevel the 950 plates and had some customers that would think it was on when it wasn't. The square edge provides a snap when its on. Earlier versions were simply 1/8" plate, no recess, no taper... the recess that the production ones have is what ITG recommends for thickness and width. Its essentially the same as their blank version.

There is a trick to it, push the filter down with one hand and slide over with the other. We want it to be tight against the foam gasket. Adjust it front or rear to align with the dzus fasteners then clip. It won't move as long as the tang of the filter is under the plate and the dzus's are locked. There is absolutely no way! It will be easier next time as the foam gasket strip compresses a little. Your's was the only filter that I have shipped unattached to the plate. I think this has something to do with the difficulty getting it on for the first time.


Have fun, hope you enjoy the improvement!

Feel free to use any thing there.