Thanks Tom. Yeah it does. There are some scratches, but all of them are in places that I'm going to replace or places I simply don't care. It's really tall, and I'm going to have to lower it some. First up is the seat. Turns out I'm really close to Seat Concepts here, so have an appointment to get the seat redone on Wednesday. I'm hoping to get a pic or two at their shop. I'll wait until I get home to do the factory lower, which I think will be enough. The bike had 372 miles on it when I picked it up, but will have triple that by the time I get back home. I have a Rotopax, tank bag, and a USB power port arriving this week for the trip back. Lots more to do, but I am looking forward to the ride home. Is there any way to display a tach, or do I need to install an add on computer for that?
I'm running a 13. Right now a 12. But mostly a 13. Bike has 30,000 kms and I have replaced 3 guards, need another one right now but waiting a bit. I am going to do a full swing arm movement adjustment. I found that the more I weight the bike down the sooner the guard is destroyed. Slack is set fine for normal riding or empty bike but gear up or two up and it will be too tight.
I had a 13, switched to a 14 and came up with a chain adjust and check tech that has worked well so far.
I run a 12 or 13. Was running the 13 when I got the damage. Stock chain was not that old, but It got kinky when I let the maintenance slip. Kinks will eat that slider faster than anything.
Unsure if you have read BigDogs mods, but he is not a fan of the smaller front sprockets and has a good theory behind it. He runs a 14 now and changes gearing on the rear. http://www.bigdogadventures.com/WR250R.htm
I am running the stock 13 front with a 50 rear. Have never used a 12, and wouldn't. And that chain adjust and check tech would be...? In my case I think the damage was caused by 1. Chain/sprocket wear, leading to excessive slack. 2. Several weeks exposure to salt air, 1000's of miles of sand trails, and one spectacularly impassable mud pit that caused the rear wheel to completely lock due to mud packing around the swingarm, chain guide and front sprocket area. Grit and water got past the x-rings and eventually caused several links to kink up. 3. Riding with the above conditions with a full load of camping gear on extremely rutted/washed out dirt roads, where g-outs and 6" potholes are as common as cardon cacti. The loose and kinked chain tends to wrap upward as it leaves the bottom of the front sprocket under acceleration, add in the upward movement of the rear wheel under a g-out which further pulls the chain toward the bottom of the swingarm... I'm sure you can get swingarm damage in other situations--say a too tight chain--but it is very clear that the damage in my case was NOT caused by a tight chain. (i.e., much respect to BigDog, but my data simply doesn't jibe) I tightened up the chain slack, lubed the heck out of it, and got home with no more significant damage.
Utah Fox good luck on your trip. If you can set the shock sag to 4+ inches, should help with the height. Seat Concepts will be a big plus. I am here in Prescott AZ, if you have any issues along the way on your trip just give a shout & I will give any help I can. Good luck & ride safe.
In case anyone is in the market I got this email from rockymountainatvmc.com this morning about clearance prices on a battery. To our valued customer: This email has been sent to let you know of a machine-specific clearance offer: AGM No Maintenance Battery clearance items are now available in limited quantities for your 2009 YAMAHA WR250R at special clearance pricing! Clearance price: $23.99 Reg Price: $54.99 Hurry! Clearance items move quickly and are limited to stock on hand. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p.../Motor-Power-AGM-No-Maintenance-Battery-CTZ7S
>"AGM No Maintenance Battery clearance items are now available in limited quantities for your 2009 YAMAHA WR250R at special clearance pricing! Clearance price: $23.99" Hmm... the online reviews for this battery are not very good.
I didn't look into it at all just passing it along. I bought a new battery about a month ago so it's of no interest to me.
Thanks! The spoke wrench gauge is a good idea. But... "The TSB says to do this with the bike on the side stand. I did mine with the rear tire in the air." That is a HUGE difference. I suppose there could be a strange coincidence where the relation of the chain/swingarm pivot/sprockets is the same in both cases, but I'm not willing to gamble on that one. Have you checked the slack with the bike on the side stand, in neutral? How does it compare to your slack with the bike on a center stand, rear wheel fully lowered?
Good catch... Yes, I do this with it on the side stand. By the way, in my case it was the same on the side stand as on the lift in the chock, but on my trips of course it is always on the side stand. 30bones, I really like the trailer for commuting and for long trips.
I love the idea of not spending all this $$ on bike specific racks/luggage. All that would need changing is the mount for whatever bike (I assume). Price it kind of high, but not too bad if you consider what a full line of wolfman or giant loop gear would run.
I may be getting these tires soon and making the WRR into a part time commuter bike. The front listing for these tires on RMATV are 2.75, 3.00, & 3.25 X 21". Stock tire size is 80/100-21. Rim is a 1.6 X 21". Which front tire size to get??
Thanks Tom. I did bring my toolkit, so hope to set that sag before I take off. I weigh about 150 and my bag will be kind of heavy; I'm going to have a 1 & 1/2 gallon Rotopax in there + about 10 pounds. Would that change the amount of sag I should set? I'm not going to do any dirt on the way home as I'm really not set for emergencies (flats) yet, just a tiny amount of touring since I'll be in the area. Dave P. S. Oh, and the gear I wear is pretty heavy too, maybe 10-15 pounds (Rukka jacket, BMW city pants, Gaerne boots, and my Shoei). P.p.s. what about break in? The bike now has 500 miles exactly, and the owner gave it to me with a fresh oil change. I have around 700 miles to get home. Should I ride the piss out of it or baby it? Should I get the oil changed again on the way home?