Husaberg 70 Degree Owners Thread!

I'm picking up a new FE570 tomorrow and when I asked the selling dealer about installing the competition map he said no problem, I charge $70 for that. After all my searching I can't find where anyone had to pay the dealer for the map. I have no qualms about paying for a service as long as every other dealer isn't doing it for no charge.

I would weigh that cost against what it would cost to send to a dealer out-of-state to get flashed. I may have to do that (not all dealers will do it / know about it). If the dollars are close between the two options, might be a wash.

I'm loving this machine. That being said, I had one hell of a bad luck night.

Turning a 180 in the woods, setting up for hill climb, give it and fall over. WTF!

I managed to wrap 5 feet of heavy wire around my right rear axle and swing arm. It tightened down and snapped the brake line. Got it unwound and decided to continue the ride. Was only about another hour of daylight anyway.

Hit a river crossing and found a big f'n hole with a boulder on the other side. Bounced off, went over. I hit the kill switch just before the tank went under. Got the bike upright about immediately. Friends helped me drag it on shore and we stood it up, no water out of the exhaust. I put it in 5th gear and rocked it a few times then thumbed the starter. There was hydro lock. I rocked it a few more times and finally she spit and started turning over. It eventually started and I rode the mile back out of the shit hole we were in. Guess it's broke in now.

So, the reason for this whole sordid story was to ask about flushing the motor. It's not my first drowning and I know what to do but is there something I should pay special attention to when I do flush it? I have a 2011 FE570.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't this the same map that can be switched with an aftermarket map switch? if so, why not buy a switch for about the same price and have all 3 maps available on the fly?

here's Sicass's for $79 and Hsaberg's for $35
http://sicassracing.com/store/switches/sicass_switches/husaberg_efi_mapping_switch
http://offroadboss.com/Berg_accessories.htm

The FE570 is not like other dirt bikes. if you put the airbox under water you get water in the piston and gear box.
Not hard to deal with.
First check oil level so you don't have too much water in it to blow your cases or bend your crank. Drain some if necessary. remember oil floats water is on the bottom.
Take the seat off and remove the filter. Make sure you get the water out of the vent to crank area and if needed stand the bike up with the throttle opened to let the water drain back out of the airbox and intake.
Next crank a few short pulses to help push the water out of the piston or put it in gear and try and roll it out.
The try and start it with brief periods with the throttle cracked slightly to help dry the plug.
Don't over crank. Do a few seconds once a minute and in a few minutes she should start up.
The squeeze the water out of the air filter and reinstall it and the seat after it has gotten running.

When you get back to base camp you need to do 4 oil and changes and one filter change. until the oil has not more milky look.

Don't ask why I know. Damn pesky beaver ponds forced me to cross up to the handlebars a few times.

Thanks dude. Yeah, we've got beaver ponds here too. Usually at the end of some hell section you just spent 3 hours beating your brains out in. Tar road just the other side it it.

Got plenty of oil to flush it with and will sacrifice a filter to get it cleaned up.

Damn, it was cold. I'm laughing now.

My understanding is the map switch only switches ignition timing. The competition map takes the EPA map(lean) to the closed course setting. Anyone in the know? I have since found that dealers do charge for this to recoup the cost of their tool, no problem on my end paying.

Fuel pump #3, check.:

I've been playing around with packing the Berg', wanting to distribute the weight nicely and give myself enough space to move around when needed. I found a very solid way to mount the bags up front, I estimate there wouldn't be more that 7-8 pounds of non-fragile gear in each bag.
With the bags over the tank on the front I found there's space to sit comfortably and move around when standing no problem, it feels good.
My question is how do you guys think covering up the "holes"/side panels where the air flows out from the radiator is going effect the cooling of the bike. It looks like there's plenty of other places for the air to flow through there, just wondering if anyone else has run tank panniers on this bike, or does the front Safari tank restrict the air flow as well?
While loaded I doubt there would be much slow, super technical riding.


Also, is anyone running the 70º tank along with the Safari Rally REAR tank?



Thanks for the reply B-Rod!


Finn

Need to do my first oil change on my new '11 FE390. Anyone know the KTM Part # equivalent for the oil filter? My local dealer is KTM.
thanks

I don't know the part #, but my 2011 Fe570 takes the same filter as the new KTM 500 and I think that is the same as the KTM 525/450, etc. I would think the FE390 is the same. Far from an expert though.

I run these because they are bomb proof in water crossings and easy to clean.
Paper filters collapse when drowning.

http://www.scottsperformance.com/products.php?PartType=3&Bike=Husaberg

welcome to the club finn! i've seen what you like to do to the f8. can't wait to see your adventures on the 'berg!

Lost Rider, Check out SafarBerg's thread on the rally Bergs. Restricted/smaller Safari openings became an issue during Dakar. Other than that type heat and engine stress he said the Safari openings were ok even though smaller. Also, they ran the 70 degree with the rear Safari.

KTM oil filter part # 77038005044

Competition flash is only required on the street legal 2011 FE570s as I understand it. All the other FEs and FXs have the competition map already, hence the decal on the frame stating that the bike is supposed to be used for competition purposes only. Anybody else know anything different?

Congrats on FP3 PABiker.

I have read this on another forum as well but also hear of folks needing to flash it for a 390. Confusing.

And, I'm referring to the fuel map not the ignition map, which I understand a switch is available for.

Indy, do you have a photo of this mounted on your bike?

I'm continuing to refine my bike setup as I ride my 390. Slowly & methodically, I'm getting her dialed in to my liking. Thought I'd share my latest results.....which have evolved from some hard riding in tight, steep, rocky trails.

1) Swapped the drive sprocket to 12-tooth. I'm running 12/52 now. Stock was 13/52 (at least on my bike).

This is the single best change I've made on the bike for riding the trails in the woods. Darn tootin fantastic!
If you haven't tried it you need to, unless all you ride is wide open spaces at high speeds. I think this is how the bike should have been geared out of the crate.....as a "Woods Racer" anyway.

2) Lowered the front end, by raising the forks thru the triple-clamp 4mm. Very good improvement. This leveled out my bike (it felt a bit high in front), and increased the stability of the front end. Feels more planted in the rough stuff. I just didn't get off my line anywhere. And, the steering remained easy and effortless.....look & go.

3) Increased rear shock rebound damping by 2 clicks. So now, I'm at "comfort" setting (per manual) + 2 clicks of additional rebound damping. The rear feels very solid & even comfortable, without bouncing off of stuff. Stays planted when hopping over elevated logs.

4) Removed the MT43 Trials-type DOT rear tire. It simply won't fit on this bike (not mine anyway). Even with the smaller 12T sprocket, there's not enough room between the mudguard/swingarm and the tire knobs at full aft axle adjustment. It continued to destroy my mud guard and rub on the swingarm and shock mount....even with just 8 pounds of air in the tire.

So, I put the stock Bridgestone back on. Works great....and really doesn't feel too bad on the pavement. Its actually fairly smooth running. And you know I like it in the trails.

Note: with this lower gearing and improved front end stability, I might not ever add a steering damper or autoclutch. That'll save me a $1,000 or so. Really...the results might surprise you. For reference, I'm 5-9 & 180 lbs.

I LOVE THIS BIKE!

Its approaching Bike Nirvanna.

HF

p.s. Removed & inspected the steering stem. Top bearing was full of grease, bottom bearing had little to none. So, you might want to have a looksee at yours before too long. Just sayin

Swap between 12, 13 and 14/52 as the ride requires, all on the same chain.

As you said, the 12/52 works great in hard riding but the 12 tooth wears faster than the others.

Are you running the map switch as well?

I run a Maxxis Dualmaxx 120/100/18 which fits and works great and is close to a trials tyre as far as knobbies go. It is a lot more capable than the standard Metzeler Six Days Extreme.

I have a 2011 FE390, and had Jeff Tasky take a look at the FI map that it came with. He said it was the leaned-out EPA approved map. Maybe because this bike came from a California dealer, and the bikes are Green Dot certified there - whatever. Anyway, he flashed it with the competition map, and it definitely unleashed the snort-beast within. The restrictor plate on the end of the pipe also mysteriously fell off while I was riding.

An easy "KTM mod" I did to the stock end cap was to shorten the outlet tube back to the brace. Stock, the tube comes real close to the turbine spark arrestor. Post mod it is a bit louder, but not at all loud. The informal blip the throttle in the driveway test reveals a "puffier" exhaust - better air flow and a more pleasing but still not loud tone. You can see the tube I am talking about in the photo below:



Turbine spark arrestor (looking at it from the rear)


For kicks I removed the end cap altogether to try to ascertain what a larger diameter outlet cap might be like. Oh my, that was shockingly loud. The end cap setup has a lot to do with sound output, without a doubt. Keeping it as it is, happy with the result.

This is a "KTM style" exhaust. Some bikes may have a Husaberg exhaust. Those are more heavily baffled. I would just put an FMF "Q" on if the bike comes with one of those.