Two Moto Kiwis Arctic To Antarctic May 2012...

Yeah lucky with the leak alright, we were being looked after for sure.

Re the rain, we were committed by the time it started hosing badly and the weather map showed it miles away, never mind that is the way it works sometimes, believe me I would not have put a key in the bike had I known what we were in for!!!

Hell yeah, few more miles and I am sure the RED light of death would have come on we woulda been in the middle of nowhere with probable damage too.

Just so lucky to discover it there.

RE Spot, yeap died, Spot are replacing it under warrantee, only bugga we will have hole in our map for South East Mexico

Not a biggy in the scheme of things.

Spotless ... in two ways, what a beautiful city and now we don't know where we have been .... or at least I don't, Ellens memory is betterererer than mine

So ..... leaving the love shack we had a nice warm and dry day, milage to complete was 350 km, easy as.

We chose the Cuota road for this leg as the Libre is partly dirt and loaded with toppes through small town so would take two day for not much.

We paid in total 100 Pesos so about $8 dollars which was worth it to make the ground on mostly smooth road with NO toppes.

To be fair the view from out the window was pretty good too, once we got to Tuxtla we then got on to the Libre road which took us up to 3000 metres with a beautiful twisty road and views that were outstanding.

Only a few road pics today

Someone wrote KTM on the road but clearly can't spell KTM



Beautiful day and backdrop with mountain ranges



A large inland lake we passed



Arriving in San Cristobal was sunny, warm and inviting, within 10 minutes of arriving we found a nice hotel called Hotel San Luis with a courtyard for Maya to play in, the rooms nice, Wifi and QUIET ... something to treasure in Mexico.



We decided that was the place, soon as we unpacked we decided that was the place for two nights!

Walking into town once in civilian mode we went to a recommended coffee shop, up till now Durango had the best coffee, now it was this place buy a country mile.



So good was the coffee we didn’t bother going elsewhere for the duration of our stay, of interest the coffee is locally grown as well so we are supporting the local, a nice feeling to be honest.

Around and abut we walked through town taking in the sights and at one point at the top of stair near a church we just sat and observed.....really neat watching the Mexican world go by.

Cool old bike



We like our shadows as they are taller than us



Town in the evening



Like a boring old couple we went back to the Hotel San Luis with a bottle of wine, cheese and crackers (like Wallace and Grommitt) and caught up on our trip reports and purchasing stuff for Maya.

Also to our surprise we saw a traveller earlier in the day on a Yamaha Tenere, when we arrived back home there was the bike in the courtyard and its owner Eamon Molloy came back later on so we sat round chatting... till after midnight.

Morning arrived dishing up a beautiful day again. We set off to our favorite cafe this time bringing Eamon with us, again the coffee did not disappoint yet again reinforcing it being the best we had since leaving New Zealand.



On returning to the hotel we fixed the rear brake pads which were covered in oil from the burst pipe thus leaving us with NO back brake and hauling up on one single front disc wasn’t cutting it.

Took the pads out, took them out to the sandstone street and sanded the oils shit off, job done in two minutes.

I then helped Eamon fix his leaking carb with a quick needle and seat cleaning job and some new filters.

Maya stalking Aemons Tenere like a tiger in the bushes



After fixing Eamons bike Ellen and I went for a ride to a couple of local villages to look at them, it was a nice ride and on our return we returned for a Frappe Coffee treat at our new local.

Staircase to the top of the hill



Crusing back to the hotel was more writing and picture uploading before heading out for some Indian for tea which was very nice indeed.

All in all we absolutely loved San Cristobal, is was nothing like we thought and far better than our expectations to the point that both of us agreed it was the nicest place we have been in Mexico so far ..... did I mention it was quiet .... just golden!!!

Eamon had gone to the movies and on his return we decided to ride together to Pelenque etc ...... 10.31 pm, time for the old fella and felles to go to bed.

Good to see you two Gruvers groovin. I like the pic of stalking Maya. Maybe pick up some oil hose and clamps for the kit.

freezing in Peachland.

Heya Mike, yeap all happening again which is great, still snowing up your way?

Got everything we need now I hope for our kit.

New report up next

Perfect weather again, I can get used to this, 9.30 am start with Eamon running a bit behind we left at 9.45 am, 209 km to do, waterfalls to see and thousands of toppes to run over we were on or way.

The road was very twisty with moderate traffic so we set a slower pace so we could look out the window as the scenery was mint.

There was a number of the 15 mphr club on their Sunday drive on Wednesday so we passed these guys.

During the day Maya clicked over 10000 km



At one stage we caught up on a line of traffic probably near on 700 - 800 metres long all caught up behind a semi trailer going very slow, one by one we picked them of as it was half of first gear crawling speed with hot temps which Maya does not like ... nor do I sitting on top when it is 35 degrees plus at that pace.

After about 10 - 15 minutes of passing and pulling in one at a time we finally broke free of the pack just in time to get to a military check point and to be waved through, had we got stuck behind all the trucks etc we would have been there for hours.



Getting to the turn off to the waterfall we headed off down the hill, paid our 57.00 Pesos each and parked up by a restaurant with the restaurant man waving us in and inviting us to leave our gear under his watchful eye (also when we come back we have to buy from him .... a good business man)

Ditching all our bikie gear and turning into humans (cos it was 38 degrees C and STICKY as we wondered off looking like everyone else taking photos of the waterfall and it was very well worth going to.









Ellen piled in for a swim, bit cold for me as I like it steaming before I get in.



Returning to the bike and the restaurant Aemon bike was there, we took a seat and ordered two nice cold Cokes, no wonder he flagged us in with a big smile on his face as they were spendie ... but worth it to get a sugar boost and something chile inside, in that heat neither of us felt hungry so we didn’t eat.



Carrying on to Palenque we turned off toward to ruinas per good advice from the guy running the Indian restaurant in San Cristabal, the first few places were very expensive, one was super cheap but we had to share it was cockroaches mossies and an assortment of other aliens and finally we found a place within our price range and not to bad ... but no Wifi ... a funny thing now we have come to rely on being our link to you guys.

At that stage of the day it was sticking hot and super sticky, we both had a quick shower then the water ran out!!!.... not cold ... ran out!! 8-(

The restaurant was below so we went down for a feed, Ellen wasn’t hungry and I was only peckish so I ordered a medium size feed which fed both of us easily couple with a coldie each.

The owner had some seriously awful almost depressing music playing (note DEFINITELY not restaurant style stuff) so Ellen politely asked if he had Mexican music to which he said yes and changed it ..... this lifted the mood in the whole place.

Bedtime was calling .. time to rest for the ruinas.

Next morning we woke to a fine day for poking around the ruinas so we set off on Maya with only two km to do to the gate.

Parking Maya up the guy wanted 30 Pesos to wash her and 20 Pesos to watch her, we said no to both ... maybe he should have washed her but to be fair she is covered in oil from the popped pipe so it would not be fair to him as his gear would have gotten caked.

The ruinas were excellent to say the least, it is hard not to take photo after photo and we just sat looked, listened and learned taking in the place, many tourists on tour just rip around and out the other side, I think our money comes to us a bit harder than them so we want to make the most of it and it was a big effort to get there, your good advice Bevan, when you see it see it well!! (reinforces what we were already doing and advice taken as a reminder)

Just a few pics of the place as it has been done to death, if you want to see more go here

http://s1263.beta.photobucket.com/user/Twomotokiwis/library/Mexico/Palenque ruins









Finishing at the ruinas we wondered back to Maya who was patiently waiting in the carpark, still dirty, still intact, jumping on the super heated seat in shorts I temporarily toasted the blokes !!!.:eek1

The Museum was just back down the road so we dropped in to see that as well, again very well presented and air conditioned it was a nice reprieve from the heat and humidity.

Again Maya waiting in the carpark we piled back on to go to the hotel, again jumping on the super heated seat in shorts I temporarily toasted the blokes !!!.... again!!!

Leaving the bike at the hotel we took a bus to town to have look around, grab some lunch and just mill around.

We found a shop named after us too :huh



We found The Italian Coffee Company and the had Wifi so that was mint, do a ride report, upload some pics and do some ordering co-ordination.

I also went to an auto shop as Maya has been losing antifreeze, hopefully from junk under the radiator cap.

Finishing our office work over a Frappe-chino (darling) we headed back to home base to fix Mayas coolant drinking problem, removing the radiator cap it had crusty crap everywhere so we cleaned it out lubed everything and filled the antifreeze back up, hopefully this will sort it out.

Home made tacos with salsa and avocado was on our menu along with apple juice.

A quick chat with our french neighbours and it was time to call it quits for the night.

hey!

i resemble that

HA ... yeah that was funny, I still have those pics in my archives at home.

That has is red flagged now from the earthquake and set for demo

is it? thats a buggar - that was a coolio place!

I AM C A U G H T U P! Yippee!


btw what are toppes?


and loving your photos guys!

This bring back memories? Funny, I remember the bikes, but who are those young buggers sitting on them????

<a href="http://s519.beta.photobucket.com/user/SKYCAMNZ/media/DSCN0380.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://www.advrider.com/advrider-photobucket-images/images/S/SKYCAMNZ_DSCN0380.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSCN0380.jpg"/></a>

Hey Pedro .. .great to hear from you mate!!!

Now THAT is a blast from the past .... yeah who those young buggas sittn on our bikes

That house will be no longer soon with the Chch earthquakes

In Playa Del Carmen Mexico at the mo, off to Cuba on Thursday

Nothing happened .... at least that is what Ellen said. :eek1



The trip was very hot and sticky, we are starting to get used to it now but 38 - 40 degrees with high humidity still takes some adjusting for us Kiwis.

Arriving at Campeche was nice, the town is very clean, tidy and nicely kept.





Ellen found a new boyfriend



Finding a hotel was a bit of a mission as there wasn&#8217;t much in centro that was reasonably priced.

There was the 200 Peso dump or the 700 Peso middle of the range and up from there, Campeche is fairly touristy thus this showed in the prices.

We settled on an expensive (for us) hotel at 400 Peso but it did have air conditioning, the first place we had with air conditioning so it was nice.

One of the side streets, beautiful colours



A walk down to the waterfront to watch people do there thing was neat, we were treated to a pretty groovy sunset and the place was alive with people cycling, walking and general exercising which was a little unusual but we are guessing it is the influence from the Expats living there.



And check it out, the sun's brother the moon.



There are canons lined up along the waterfront and lots of places to sit and relax





Being hungry and near food stands we bought chips and deep fried chorizos for tea and churros for dessert .... YUM!!

Churros, dessert in the making



Plus our empanada lunch, we really had a bad food day, big time!

Heading back to the hotel Ellen splashed out and bought some new jandles as hers were falling apart.

A good nights sleep was had in the cool of the room WITHOUT dogs barking their heads off..... it was very nice indeed to have the change.

Mexican traffic control. Speed bumps at the start, middle and end of many towns. Some signposted, some not. Some just a gentle bump, some sharp enough to give you whiplash if you were looking at the ladies and not paying attention to your speed.

awesome pics in here
good luck for the rest of your trip
in

This is without a doubt the best picture of Monument Valley I have ever seen!!

We call them judder bars in New Zealand but these little bastids over hear are everywhere and usually hidden in a shadow of a tree :eek1

As beemer67 some are mountains and some are less than bumps.

In Mexcio city they stand upwards of 400 - 500 mm high, they are more like a Redbull ramp, hit those at speed and you better have Evil Kenevil skills and great suspension.

Thanks mate glad you are enjoying them, that is what it is all about.

Yeah sorry our camera was playing up, unfortunately is has been playing up right here in Playa Del Carmen ... maybe I should post these to see if our panel of photography experts can diagnose the two problems

definitely!!!!!




Panel of Judges standing by............