KTM LC4 (640) Thread Index

mine starts now too after I cleaned out the foam I injected into the bars that filled up the whole starter switch assembly and dried there

I had the same problem 2 times:
1. There was a problem with the ignition key connection cable (specifically with contact near the key), I noticed where the problem was when tried to turn the steering wheel to the maximum
2. There was a basic bad contact on the battery

Dunno maybe it will help you.

Super, then Im going to get this one!

Thank you! I'll check it out tomorrow.. I tried to wiggle the cables around the ignition keylock, but it didn't make any sense

Can someone post pics of where the parts bolt up for the center stand? I've searched and find the parts diagram for the stand itself but not what bolts to where (especially the crescent shaped piece).
Thanks

here are a couple of quickies if that helps

That is perfect. Thanks!!!

glad I could help

Ok The valves are next to check on my list but I was wondering if anyone knew what the reading should be to test the spark plug wire and how to test the pulsar coil? those are next on my list.
THanks

i would check the plug wire by reading ohms to the coil like before. if it has the same reading with and without plug wire, then it should be good.

one of these days your gonna figure this thing out.

laramie

I'm thinking you should of started your own thread on this... Your posts are spread out over several pages and it has become quite fractured to follow along....

I see now that you have turned to electrical rather than carb problems... When you replaced the parts in the carb did you make any adjustments to the settings or just leave them stock?

Good point, If this doesn't do it I will start a new post with everything I have done.

I tried it stock and messed with setting in the carb and no matter what I did the problem never changed. I have a different low mileage carb in it now with the exact same issues.

It seems strange that this problem is off idle... Usually an ignition problem will see the engine run better near idle and crap out with revs...

Here is something to try in the carb that is simple: Move your jet needle down 2 clip positions and see if there is any difference { move clip away from pointy end}... An overly rich needle setting can cause a stumble like you describe...

David,

do you think it worthwhile to check valve lash? WHY I ask, seems close to this fella's issue.

For sure, always try to check off the list the easy less expensive potential solutions before you start forking out money to replace components you may think faulty...

Well I inspected the battery connection and the ignition switch, and they look OK.

I'll try to describe my problem better:
I've pulled the tripmaster and the rev meter from the bike, so now if I turn the ignition key, no consumers are on the bike by default.

Multimeter - Continuity tester is on the Battery negative and positive pole. If I turn on the key, nothing happens. But if I switch on any consomer, let's say the horn for expample: it starts beeping (the multimeter). I don't know if this is normal or not.
Voltage in the battery is 13V if it's not connected to the bike. As soon as I connect it, it drops to about 0.5V. If I turn on any consumer (horn for eg.) voltage immediately drops to 0.0V.

I've checked the cables and can't find a pinch on them.. What should I do now? Please help:)

Thanks,
Sumi

Oh boy... Found it:)



Terminal was sometimes making the contact, sometimes not.. It had a movement in it.. Time for a new battery
Thanks for the help!

Sumi

What brand of battery?

Not necessarily, a friend had this happen and he "hard" soldered the terminal back onto the battery. Still works. If the battery is good try that and save yourself some money.....

M.

I don't have the tools to solder it back, so I've bought a new one.