KTM LC4 (640) Thread Index

Hi everyone.
2001 LC4E, I have blown blinker/brake light/neutral fuses 3 times over the last few months. It happened this morning when riding into work. The headlight flickered then the next turn the blinkers were dead. I wanted to verify it's the right one installed and through searching I came up with 10A, but the one I have been replacing is a 25A. Which is correct?
Thanks for ANY help!!!

Why not close the sides and eliminate the problem?

You get enough air from the top and it's clean.

bill
bill

Timo, Why not close the sides, that's the problem.
You get enough air from the top and it's clean.
This thread, we plowed this ground, us old ones!!!

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123569&page=5

The link is to Happe's pic but the whole thread is good and I love the old arguements.

IMHO.
Open the top and then leave it alone.
You can flip the filter to get more miles once it grunges up, it will be clean on the bottom.

Easy to clean the stock filter with tank gas and reoil with engine oil.
Carry a couple of EMT gloves or the like.

Pull the fuel line, soak filter with gas, wring it out, di it again, set filter in sun or by the campfire, knock out any loose shit, reoil with engine oil and install.

GO!!!

And don't forget to fill your stove fuel bottle and reconnect the fuel line.

bill

does anyone have a source for a case saver? i find photos all over the place of them mounted, are guys making them themselves, or are they hiding in the KTM fiche somewhere - part number? or buying them from....

kind of like this i'm talking about



and how about these type of case saver for the clutch cover etc...i know this is not a photo pf a KTM LC4, thats kind of my point...is anyone out making something for us?

Paul, it's already on your machine or should be, some of us grind them thinner to fit the 17T sprocket cause it's too small,

The thing is aluminum and grinds easily.

17/42T make an easy cruising gearing and less vibs for sure.

There are several threads on this and the mod.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=649629
BTW there are some really heavy chains and good oilers out there.

I'd recommend the use of one. I'll go on your thread tonight with what worked for me.

bill

Look under "Engine Case" in the motor Fiche.

bill i thought you'd be the first in on this, my bike is still with RAD MFG so haven't had a chance to pull it apart yet, so as i read other threads its is giving me ideas, good to know its there already, thanks

OK, so found the first one in two sizes, thanks for the direction...what i found and pricing right here

CHA.DAMPERSHEET 15/16T 92MM 03 58430047200 $9.74
CHAIN DAMPERSHEET 17T 92MM 03 58730047100 $9.71



so how about the the clutch and engine cover saver?

The LC 4 cases are initially built fairly tough and can take a beating... Not to say that they won't puncture with the perfect hit, but nobody has produced cover savers for this model because there was no demand... The few punctures I have heard of were easily repaired with a JB/quicksteel type product...


Your showing the Suzuki case covers which have a rep for how easily they puncture, hence the need for extra armor...

OK if they're not out there now i can stop looking, i will probably make some myself then just as extra insurance thanks for letting me know

I look forward to seeing what you come up with...

Have you considered one of these?:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=806155

I have personally crashed tested it and no damage to cases or fuel taps.

Plenty of damage to LC4 pilot (not sure how fast as I knocked myself out and cannot remember any of the accident)

Also good for storage and one of the inmates here modified it to make it a bit more secure.

looks like sturdy stuff but at over $700 US to get it here i can make it myself if need be, if you look at my thread i have a bash plate already, and if need be i am a welder and fabricator so can make changes/ additions if required...what i was looking for was just simple covers like the ones that are available for other bikes just as additional coverage and strength. I will probably end up making something out of steel, aluminum or carbon fiber

Now i know how to upload pics (at last..) i want to show you my LC4 adventure:

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Is an '05 witch i bought new, but had to respray after a serious accident in '06.
Fine bike, but sold it a couple of years ago...

Today i own a different LC4.. (bought in jan. this year en restored en had it sprayed in Galoises colors etc.)

It 's a 660RR and has a lot more power compared with the 640adv!
And the noise is also a bit (...) more

Nup, doesn't work as the 640 self-dusts.

I ran my bike for years and years with the OEM configuration (closed side and snorkel in) and it still dusted up pretty bad. I have not noticed any increase in dusting after opening the side and removing the snorkel.

Carry several filter skins which can be changed in a couple of minutes. That will get you through a long dusty day (or days) without having to clean the filter itself.

Thanks for the link, I must have missed that thread when I was searching for info

I'll give it a try with the side closed back up, snorkel off and may make a screen for the top.....and use filter skins.

IMHO, no screen on top as it willl disturb the smooth air flow/ movement-motion into the box and to the filter.


IMHO.
bill

Bill is correct to an extent. This really depends on the carb you have. If you are still running a stock bst 40 he is absolutely correct. In my experience if you open up the airbox to much you establish no pressure(vacuum) in the airbox. The reason this is bad is because that is the way that your carb operates. It creates a lag until that airflow velocity/pressure is reestablished. With a fcr/pumper carb open the intake and exhaust as much as possible and let that (and off course the motor itself) be your only restriction. As far as filtration goes, there are many theories, but as long as you are keeping the dirt out and the air coming in your, theory is as accurate as any other. Beek

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

Thanks, I'm using an FCR 41/JD jetting and Akro exhaust.
I've refitted the blank side cover before reading the above and soon as I get chance will try it out.

But here's a question regarding JD jetting.
I've set the bike up as per JD recomendations for sea level except the needle is on the top notch and runs perfect now. (ie. I've had to drop the needle 3 notches)

So running at altitude, say averaging 6000ft.
If I change the jetting and needle as per JD recomendations.
Will I still need to drop the needle correspondingly or will it be a trial an error thing?

The bike's being shipped out from UK to Alburquerque and would obviously prefer it to be set up beforehand, although I will take a selection of jets and both needles this time.

Beek and Timo,
You are both right.
About carbs and flow I really don't know.
Hey that rhymes.

I go back in time to the flow bench and Sonny Branch making Harley's go fast on the flat track.

Out of all that I got it that air is an invisible, compressible fluid.
So birds fly and so do airplanes and I always loved the look of a velocity stack.
Air flows like water. It's a fluid. Birds swim in the air.

Being a fly fisherman I spent many years of time watching water.
It flows and is predictable in my experience.

That said, we understand that KTM used a BST on the 640 travel bike because the Adventure was not designed as a racer. The BST is a carb that self adjusts to altitude changes and is a frugal user of fuel.

If I was running a FCR carb on a 640 Adventure I'd have to see the layout of the 660 racer's airfilter and airbox, I'd build that as best I could....

The factory always cheats.

They use a dyno.

As for dirt, no worries, chrome bore and chrome rings.
The foam filter in my experience doesn't pass dirt, it will plug eventually but it is easily cleaned with tank gas and oiled using a bread bag, engine oil and some EMT gloves.
FWIW.

bill