My bike is built way beyond what you're describing and I run a 70s pilot. I've had it on the dyno at 600ft and the A/F was perfect. I think you'd have a hard time coming up with a situation where you'd ever need a 72 pilot if my bike doesn't need it. For comparison I run a 192 main jet most of the year, 190 when it's REALLY hot and humid, 195 when it's really cold. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
So I joined the Porcine Patrol with the purchase of a 2003. Did a quick shake down shred, and found a out the DS kit the previous owner installed has some errant behavior. If I flick the right blinker on, works (pretty much) like it should. Flick the left blinker and the head light blinks:eek1. On top of that no brake or tail light (have yet to put a meter on things), and the whole system likes to have a bit of throttle to operate. The battery still seems alive (strong horn when engine off). Any one run into something like this? Thinking its going to be some hours of poking and prodding.
Lean it out. Do you have a screen kit on the airbox cover? Take it for a quick whip without the cover on it, I bet the stutter is gone. Or drop the needle.
That is what happened when I added a header and cam, I had to drop the needle and go up 3 jet sizes, currently 180, because it went lean on top and fat in the middle. That last dyno run he said it needed another bigger jet and a pilot, now at 70.
I just rebuilt pretty much the whole bike including the engine, ended up modifying the side panel for airflow and going with a stage 1 cam which required me to go to the third clip on the B53E needle and bumping from a 165 main to a 170, it seems to be running great, good power througout the throttle range, minimal popping on decel, decent idle. throughout the break in Ive been a little nervous that my water temp sensor wasnt working so Ive been doing short runs to keep the temps low, today I finished up with the rest of the odds and ends and took it for a ride, well ill be damned it started to register the temp! Which means its either been staying below 100*F or the thing actually wasnt working and now is. I did go with some larger chinese built ebay radiators that Im actually quite pleased with but now they seem to be working too well, I couldnt get the temp to break 130*F. I was running without the T-stat before the rebuild as it was running hot, but I assume I should run one now? I think running temp should be around 190-200 right?
Quoted a post, but it grabbed some other post! This was for for the guy with the XR600 rebuilt to 628 getting hot. Did you up size the jets after the rebuild?
Sweet. I hit a set of whoops the other day while day dreaming at around 60mph. Then only thing that slowed me down was fear, the bike sucked it up perfectly.
Jwalters & Flyguy, I seem to remember the floatlevel is 18mm in the books but 19mm cures a dribling carb when parked over on the stand. Hence that mentioned 16mm sounds awfully wrong?
Does anyone live near Southern California , Long Beach more specifically. I want to compare my piggy to someone else's and I don't know anyone who has one. It would be awesome to go on a little ride and compare if you have it plated, gas would be on me, send a PM.
The Clymer service manual also calls for 16mm. That seems to be the general consensus. I'll play around with it, and report back. So much easier working on the one carb, than my Honda CB750. All 4 got tedious!
Ditto. I'm hoping Hodakaguy will make another batch sometime soon - buy if someone is sitting on a spare, drop me a line ( after contacting Shibby first of course).
Actually having thought about it, using Borynack's mid-agressive shim stacks, I would add one face shim to the conpression stack in the forks and one or two face shims to the rebound in the shock if you want your clickers set close to the middle. Mine are turned in about 3/4 closed, which isn't an issue for me. I really like using the thinner oils (3w) and have since started using 3w in my truck shocks. It requires more shims, but I think it works better.
Mine's a little soft too but for dual sport use with slow, often very technical trails it can sometimes be nice. I wish my KTM had 3w. I notice it changes quite a bit while it warms up. I have to stop and release the air multiple times too. Only then does it come into it's own.
Hi Guys, Just wanted to say thanks for the help with my jetting. The bike was running lean last December, but I over compensated. After double checking the float height (right at 16mm) I downsized to 70 idle jets and 175 mains. Still was spuddering so I pulled the air filter, lo and behold it ran great! So at that point, I knew I was too fat in the mid range. Long story short, I lowered the needle 2 clips and that put me right where I needed to be. Thanks again. Jesse
