Just picked up an 84 R100RT, and although it'll need a bunch of work, it seems to be mostly there, the pistons aren't frozen, the tank looked clean, I'm ready to start tearing into it. Fairing was already off, but none of the mounts have been removed... I'm probably going to start with the following: oil change and new filter new fuel lines and filters Spark Plugs check air filter try charging the battery and then attempt to start it should I put a few drops of oil in each cylinder before attempting to start? or just cycle starter without fuel or spark plugs a few times? Bike had new valve guides and rings done a couple years ago due to minor smoking. Then he started it, and it smoked like crazy, and he moved on to another project... nothing has been done since. I'd like to get it started and running to see if smoking is my only issue... before I tear it apart and spend more money. I'm also guessing that the brakes will need quite a bit of work, although the fronts do grab... Better pics coming sometime this weekend
Was it sitting on the side stand? They can smoke on startup like that. Loose the tractor saddle and get her pinstriped when it's mechanically sound. RTs look great in white.
A New To You Checklist from a Famous Guru: As was said, sidestand-parking will make it smoke on startup. If related to the earlier ring job, that can be fixed, nothing major. Nice seat-- may be a Bill Mayer. Comfy, and an BMW is an old tractor ** . Cloth tag should be on the underside. --Bill ** compared to Ducati, Suzuki, Kawasaki and even the current gaggle of BMWs the old Airhead BMWs are closer to tractors...
If you want an old tractor I suggest buying an old Rokon Trail Blazer. Maybe an old Harley or Indian? BMW's are not old tractors although it is readily apparent that many try their best to turn them into one. Meanwhile, they are really a lot closer to an airplane than a tractor. A super high rpm airplane. Have fun!
Thanks for the ideas of where to start... This weekend is looking like a wash with all the pre-winter honey-do's... But maybe I'll be able to squeeze in an hour or two tomorrow. The tractor comments had me confused, since many of my chores today involved my tractor... I hope this new bike is better that it, as 13hp and 12mph, with no suspension isn't very inspiring. I did pull the dipstick and the oil looked brand new, which goes with the story I've been told, and it isn't seeping out anywhere, so I guess that's a step too...
Oil and filter came out tonight, both looked ok. Fuel tank was drained through petcocks, and nothing except old gas came out. Pulled the bottoms off both carbs, and they look like they may have been rebuilt close to when it was taken off the road, but one of the gaskets was shifted during install, so I'll need new gaskets. Somewhere in the past, one of the previous owners REALLY didn't believe in metric hardware.. Lots of little pieces have been replaced with cheap Home Depot hardware... Rear subframe, only 3 bolts holding it on, and they are three different sizes... Left side peg was held on with a carriage bolt and wing nut. I'll be doing lots of replacing... Luckily, I don't think they did any of the real maintenance, just bolting stuff on... Odometer says just under 16,000, and at first I thought this was a long ways off... Now I'm thinking this might be close to accurate. Too bad the bike seems to have been abused for those miles. Just under 16,000 miles? by dkizerian, on Flickr Untitled by dkizerian, on Flickr Untitled by dkizerian, on Flickr From end, you can just make out the broken fender mount on the left fork. Front shot by dkizerian, on Flickr
Rear shocks look like Ikons! and the guy I bought it from said the owner prior to him said he'd put progressive springs in the front, I hadn't given that any thought, since it wasn't confirmed, but given the Ikons at the back it might be true. Even with everything it'll need, I think the price I paid keeps looking better and better, which is a great feeling when buying a project.
Seat is hideous, and I'll make another, but I may keep this one for longer rides, IF it's comfortable - I'll just keep my eyes closed when off the bike
Haven't done too much else this week except ordered a bunch of parts. Figuring out a way to build it the way I want, but make it easy to return to near stock as needed/wanted. Love that the rear subframe is removable. I'm getting a bunch of time Sunday, plan on draining/refilling trans,drive,rear. Removing tank so I can see what's going on with the fuel and choke cables, and see the wiring. Pulling petcocks off tank, both screens have fallen off into the tank, so I'll be trying to get them out, and see if I can get them mounted better. Pulling plugs. Flush and bleed front brakes. Also may get to look at the rear brake and start to see why it's not doing anything. Damn.... Such a short list... Oh and I need to adjust valves, and,and,and....
Tank came off, oils got drained, previous owner got cussed at, it was a good day. Got the petcock filters out of the tank, pulled the air-filter housing to replace the fuel hose, did a bunch of misc work... Gearbox oil was horrible, probably speedo cable intrusion. Driveshaft oil looked ok, but there wasn't much of it at all. Is the driveshaft filler plug supposed to be brass? I have a feeling previous owner just wedged this in the hole, and it's just plumbing parts The drain plug is a square-head plug that looks like the same... If it doesn't leak I may just leave it for the time being... Rear oil looked nearly new, but the rear filler/vent just spins, I can't loosen or tighten it.... Any ideas?
Got the air injection stuff all removed last night, the bungs on the head were finger-tight :huh I'll be checking everything for tightness now... Choke and throttle cables are off, and new will be ordered as these are falling apart. Lots of other little fiddly bits examines and cleaned.
In response to your F/D question: the orifice at the top of the F?D is only a vent. The filler opening is at the far left in your photograph with the drain plug at the lowest part of the F/D. RE-filling is a pain - ring gear allows for very little room for a tube to be inserted into the F/D housing. Usually I drain the old fluid and add the specified CC amount of oil.
