I bought 2011 TE 630 last season. 2nd dual sport of the season after 20 years of not riding. Lovin it. A bit of a beast for my re- learning curve. But a FMF q4 and JD power FI tuner, holy crap, torque monster. Already looped it. Dang.
On the tuner, some of the riders on cafehusky have the settings at zero, or same as factory, or maybe just one of the five changed. So I couldn't see spending $250 on something that didn't change anything. When you say 'out of the box settings' does that mean they put some adjustments in compared to stock? Or is that 'same as stock'? What I notice is the power just kind of tapers off over about 5800rpm, and it will ping sometimes, so I think it's lean up high. I'm thinking it should pull harder all the way to redline, or pretty close. I'm running de-catted and gutted stock cans. No issue with flow, that's for sure. Otherwise stock, just the PU, and airbox maze out. I get about 50mpg. Yes, the seat concepts seat is only wider at the back for when you sit down. Mine got put on as new and can't imagine the bike being any other way.
Chris, If you can hook up with someone's iBeat you'll be set. IMO, you're better off spending $150 to get iBeat than $250-300 on a tuner. Love my SC also. I debated getting the standard or low model (I'm 5'8"). Jim went low and I went standard and we both agree the standard is better. The low has a rise about 1/2 way back that you feel on the back of your butt after a while. .
Re JD tuner settings. My TE has an opened up air box with a pre filter. A single FMF q4 can. And my JD settings are: Green 3/4 low Yellow 4 mid Red 3 top Green/blue 3/4 idle Yellow/blue 4 transition Red/blue 4/5 accelerator Is anyone running similar settings with my set up. Apologies if this has been beaten to death already.
Is there a module that sits in front of the ecu or does i-beat modify the stock ecu? I know ibeat is a computer program and you need a special cable to connect it to a laptop. For a tech guy I sure don't know much.
It's so easy it's ridiculous. Pop the white headlight surround off, plug the $150 iBeat USB cable to the diagnostic port, and use the free (JTemple) software to adjust the ecu. Trust me, you'll kick yourself you didn't do it a long time ago. With your TCI windshield, getting the headlight surround will be the hardest part... .
Yep it is really that easy. Do it first and you'll probably find no reason to buy a JD tuner or PC-5. Both of those are add-ons to stock ECU so something else possible to go wrong also. Early back in iBeat posts the numbers posted were very low and most didn't bring dramatic change. Only with Dynobob's dyno results did the CO numbers jump to 110/110/120 for max power. Not sure if anyone prior actually dyno'd or just seat of the pants. Even George at Uptite only recommended 104/106/110 or something in that range. I still need to fine tune my settings with a dyno but I'm pretty close. See Dynobob's thread at CafeHusky for details. I was content with my bike's power before but it didn't have the high end punch like you mentioned. Now it pulls strong all the way to redline. Previously I could get mine to ping under certain circumstances also. If I was cruising 70-75mph and going uphill or standing on the pegs causing drag and hit the throttle it would sometimes ping. Now under exact circumstances it now longer does that and will accelerate strong to near triple digits without having to downshift first. LAB2LV was a great ride and definitely will do it again some year. Next time I want to do all the hard way options. This time I only did half of them as my travel and riding buddy DNF'd last year and wanted to ensure this year he finished the entire ride and wasnt taking any chances. I did break away from him for some sections the last time being the hard way up into Red Rock but turned around half way into the technical and came back down as I was with a heavy BMW 650 Dakar that wasn't up to the task. Honestly at that point I was probably looking for an excuse to bail also as was up to my eyeballs with the ice and snow and didn't want to slide off the cliff only 20 miles from the finish. Prior to LAB2LV we rode two days in AZ and then parked our haul rig in LV and rode the bikes via dirt to Barstow before switching onto pavement at darkness to ride into OC the day before Thanksgiving. That was a cold night ride. _
BRP/Scotts submount is the only one I'm aware of at ~$550, ouch! I did get a 20% off coupon from my buddy at LAB2V so that's why I have it on my radar before the coupon expires end of this year. Both BRP and Scott's website use the same photos so assume they are identical mounts. Note that you must remove submount tower in order to remove gas tank though. Unless you cut the front protion off that bolts to tank mount. I have seen that done either here or CF and no problems reported with doing so. http://brpmoto.com/products?page=sh...page.pbv.tpl&product_id=2294&category_id=2241 http://www.scottsonline.com/Stabili...ID=5457&Year=2011&Size=630&Fred=&BI_ID=148393 _
Cable is a standard USB, it is the custom adaptor plug (with internal electronics) to TE630 diagnosis connector that is special. It costs $150 because Mikuni/Husqvarna charges >$500 so someone has reversed engineered and made their own to sell. Probably a grand total market of 100-200 of these will be sold over the product lifetime so selling price set accordingly. If you were local I would loan mine out but I dont want to ship it and chance not being able to use it on any given day. Never know when you might get a ECU code that you need to diagnosis, reset your TPS, etc. _
Anyone have any thoughts on pipes for these bikes. I'm mostly looking for something that will improve midrange RPM response and torque. Ideally, not overly loud (or something that has a DB killed option). At the moment I'm thinking either an FMF 4.1 or the Arrow system. Leo Vince have discontinued their full Ti system...
I had dual Leo's before I switched to a single FMF q4. Very quiet at idle and a nice sound under power. The husky seems a little more torque-y at the bottom end. Haven't done much riding this winter. I'm waiting another month before plating.
I don't think you're going to see much difference in performance between the various brands. I only saw about 1hp difference between my bike stock, my bike w/ FMF, and my buddy's bike w/ full Leo (once the fueling was sorted). Until the fueling was sorted, my buddy's w/ full Leo had less hp than my bike w/ stock exhaust. I think if you took a poll here, most changed to single exhaust to drop 14lbs :eek1 off the bike. .
And I dropped about half that just gutting the stockers, which are really nice anyway with the gunsite end caps and heavy duty cans. I've been very happy with them. They are just a little louder than stock, nice deep mellow sound. Internals are straight-thru perf pipe, fiberglass wrapped. And they are cool to the touch which was another bonus.
Righto, copy that. I'll see how I go with the existing arrow's and I-Beat. If that doesn't seem to be cutting it, then I'll look at a single pipe and PC5. Cheers.
Hi, Im currently looking at a te630 with 20,000km on it. Is this getting pretty high for a te630? What sort of kms would i expect to get out of the te630 engine? Im currently tossing up between a Very well setup te610 And a te630 with a safari tank and racks and not much else. The te610 is cheaper though its about 2 days drive there and back. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/buderim/motorcycles/2008-husky-te-610/1036558251 http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/lake-munmorah/motorcycles/te-630-husky/1037292959
The 610 for sale is poppy's old bike.I got sick of waiting for him to sell it and brought a 630.IMHO it's a better buy than the 630 you are looking at. Plenty of info on poppy 610 below in the oz 610/630 thread http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=292786&highlight=poppy&page=60 And the new owner's ride report http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=22074690#post22074690
That's a tough call. I'd inquire about the condition of the counter shaft splines on both bikes and if they've had cam chain service. The 630 doesn't show racks that I can see? If you haven't already, go on CafeHusky and read some of the hi-mileage threads. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/at-54-117-miles-you-might-want-to.39163/ .
I would take a 630 over a 610 hands down. There were a lot of refinements, such as the hydraulic clutch, updated valvetrain. 12km is 7200 miles. Mine has 6K miles and runs and looks like new - wouldn't bother me at all. At 10-12K miles the clutch spring cups should be looked at or replaced. Otherwise you can expect lots and lots of miles to go. If it had 25K miles then I'd be suspicious. Check the screens for debris, check valves. Make sure the rear sprocket bolts are locktited and they are tight. Change the fork oil, grease the stemhead bearings. I personally don't care for the safari tank. It's ugly, bulbous, and heavy, although popular for the guys that really need extended range. I'll take my kolpin tank on the cargo rack when needed. I've used the fuel out of it about 6 times in almost 3 years on four different trips. When I need it I take it, otherwise the stocker is good for about 120 miles. hopefully it comes with the stocker as well. It's really a shame IMS didn't make a tank for us, something in the 5gl range. I would take this one instead: http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/south-west-rocks/motorcycles/huski-te-630/1037317208 4500KM. Was on the same ad page as the other 630. Looks like new.
