New Owners - Stupid Questions Thread

:eek1 Now that's the bomb! I likey....

Thanks Lukas, I hadn't seen this piece before.

HF

+1

Wish I had gone that route for integrated relay. I fit a PC8 only because of Shorai conversion.

KaliCarl - At the risk of sounding cheap (I did have a KLR ) if you are only going to run one device at a time like I do (no GPS here) you could wire directly to the battery as you intimated. Put a water proof fuse holder w/ 15 amps in line and finish it off with an SAE connector. Then add SAEs to your stuff and plug right in; including a non-BMW battery tender.

In the alternative, but still cheap - would be to to wire in a PowerLet 12" 15 Amp iCAN harness, p/n PKY-046-12, into the existing socket port. The socket itself is replaced with this kit be/ the OEM is a cheap, plastic item subject to melting w/ more amperage. It gets a new and better BMW style socket. So says the tech @ PowerLet. Call them and talk to a tech to be sure you get the right kit. Not affiliated, etc. Here's a link for installing, although this fellow used the PowerLet as a second plug: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=473247 Thus, he can run two devices at a time this way, using the OEM plug for low amp stuff. I think GPS is pretty low amperage.

If you really want to run your TV , then the CenTec, or many others as explained above, is the way to go - not cheap but really effective, particularly if you envision adding lots of stuff, especially lights and electric water heaters .

So I noted that I had at least 1 gallon of fuel left when the "Low Fuel" light comes on. Pretty funny that the "reserve" portion of the tank is ~ 25% of total capacity and that you have a good 45 miles to go before truly running out.

I also finally memorized the symbols for the computer...average speed, average fuel use and current MPG, and temp.

Is there a way to reset the averages? Or is the average all the way back to when I started the bike for the first time?

hold the lower (I think) display button..

I have a feeling that you've not read the Riders manual...

I have a feeling you haven't read it since you were unsure of your answer.

I have a constant confusion about what the upper and lower buttons on the BC do .. I bet for the lower one though

And of course I've read the Riders manual... as I remember about a month BEFORE I got the bike.. and several times since that. I like manuals

So of course it's impossible that I read the manual, and forgot how the computer works (because I've owned the bike a whole week), and just don't have it with me at work, right?

aha sorry I didn't know that you have the bike only a week... and of course why you're still at work.. it;s evening

---

btw: be aware not to touch the BC controls (not those on the handlebars) during ride... I've almost crashed because of that several times... and you know... I'm a very capable and multitasking rider

You have to hold the info button for a few seconds to reset/restart the average values (section 4, pg 37)

Happy Easter to everyone. First post here! I am trying to find out what crash bars are installed on this bike as I would like to install the same on mine, which BTW I am picking up this week.




Thanks in advance for your replies!

it's imho Tourarech.

---

definitely TT:

http://www.touratech.com/shops/008/...=6313&osCsid=aa5e0f8b1ef073ed34affdba3ff08cc0

http://www.touratech.com/shops/008/...=6314&osCsid=aa5e0f8b1ef073ed34affdba3ff08cc0

With the bike on the centerstand if I spin the rear wheel when it is coming to a stop I get a small squeak. I can also hear it if I start turning the wheel very slowly. Anything to be concerned about?

Here's a stupid question: Why do my wrists, especially my throttle hand, hurt a LOT after an hour's riding? At first it happened because I was leaning way too far forward so that my wrists were at an odd angle. Once I fixed that I found thay still hurt quite a bit especially when I rotate them after about 1 hour's riding. What am I do doing wrong? Do I need bar risers? Or a lower seat to alter my angle?

The factory grips are hard as granite and offer no vibration dampening. I've found that loosening my grip on the grips/bars helps a little.

it could be brake pads... take a video with sound and post it here....

do you do any wrist excercise? for example with a gum-ring?

how tall are you?

Another stupid question for you all. Actually, a stupid situation. My rear brake pads are stuck as I accidentally pressed the brake lever, with the rear wheel off, when removing the front sprocket cover. It just came down and hit the brake. So, do I pry a screwdriver in there? Or bleed the brakes, or both? Thanks. That front sprocket ain't coming off either. It's corroded as hell.

HIGHWAYMAN: Try some Grip Puppies or Grab Ons, foam grip covers @ about $10.00. You can rotate/pivot the handle bar a little bit in the stock clamps to change the angle of your wrist. Also you can rotate the throttle housing & brake lever a bit to get a straighter angle for your wrist. My preference is to have a straight line from my elbow to my wrist and hand as I rest my fingers on the brake lever with the throttle open a bit. Look here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=561245 The rest gets costly if these little things fail to help out.

CALI: If you didn't shoot the pucks out of the caliper, just take a very clean screw driver or tire iron and pry the pads back into the caliper. You should not have to bleed the brakes. Good practice whenever working around brakes is to wipe the rotor clean with alcohol as a last step. You might need a small gear puller to get the counter sprocket off. Some auto parts stores (AutoZone, O'Relly's) loan tools.