'13 XC-W, the small running light burns, but not the stock headlight bulb. The bulb is good, glows fine when wired direct to a spare battery. I have seen mentionof this as a recurring problem, but have not come upon the fix. Where do I start looking, or is the stock headlight just worthless crap that needs to be replaced.? I really use it as a dirt bike, but it is licensed for occasional trail connector use, so would like some kind of working headlight. If I do go aftermarket, looking for suggestions for a rugged headlight the stock electrics can handle - since it is a dirt bike mainly, I don't really need any deer burners. Thanks.
I sprung for the SAR light kit for my '13 XC-W 500 and love the kit. However the stock headlight bulb is absolutely worthless! I ordered a halogen replacement bulb and it works a lot better, although it could be worlds better yet. The stock bulb is also prone to early retirement (measured in minutes depending on trail conditions). Make sure the rubber o-ring that is on the bulb socket is still there-it serves as a vibration damper otherwise the bulbs just vibrate into oblivion. Hope that helps.
I got off on a tangent from the KTMforums link above and somewhere it was mentioned that Blaise Racing de smog kit recommends setting the idle speed by unscrewing the idle speed knob, CCW, all the way till it stops. Then screw back in 17 CLICKS CW. the person that posted said they found 15 CLICKS in to work better for them. So i tried it at 16. The bike started instantly and idled much smoother and seemed stronger. I did not need to pull the choke knob out either, the bike would never start and stay running without the knob pulled. No chance to ride it yet, but i will tomorrow. I am pretty sure this will help the stalling at traffic lights and flame outs. I am off to the dealer in the AM to re-map to XC-W spec and will have them check the TPS and actual idle speed while it is hooked to the diagnostic computer. Richard
If anyone is looking for an ohlins 2.1 I took one off my 350exc when I sold it and it won't mount on my 450xc-f. pm me.
i know this is the XC-W thread but they all seem to have similar issues, so here is how it went today. I took the bike to my dealer and had them re-map to the XC-W map, check the TPS and idle speed. My TPS was at 0.610V so we left it there. The idle speed as i had adjusted it was 2300, so it was dropped to 1900 RPM And the Map for the XC-W with ending with 601was installed. Looking at it now i need to call them and ask if it was the US map or the EU map. I also asked about the 701 Map, and they had not heard of it before so they called KTM Canada and were told no dice! you cannot have this map! and you really should not put the 601 map on an EXC! Bottom line, the bike does not seem to stall anymore and will lift the wheel in 4th without really trying. If the flame outs are really gone i will be extremely happy. So if you adjust the idle screw as outlined above, 17 clicks may be too fast an idle.
Been in the garage all day adding Sicass light kit, heated grips and Lynx fairing with USB and dual HID. Nearly killed my brain but it's all working now. This is on a 2013. Question: is it really just the thin brown and white wires bringing power up front? The Lynx ran it's own dedicated power from the battery but I'm far from clear about which wires will carry the load for heated grips, GPS, phone. I'm no electrician but I'm handy with a multimeter if anyone has pointers ...
I ran a dedicated set of wires up forward. 30a fuse at the battery, then into a fuse block. From there you have separate fused circuits to each of your accessories, and can run smaller gauge wire to each. The fuse block I used has a built in relay, so when the bike is off so is the power to the accessories. I used the stock fan circuit to switch the relay. No dead battery because you forgot to turn something off.
anybody using extra inline filters . And is there a alternative filter to replace the one used in the tank?
Jason, The yellow wire connected to the push - pull switch is the main power wire coming forward. I am assuming the small Brown and White wires you are looking at are to the headlight and the White wire is connected to the other side of the switch making it the hot and Brown is ground.
Thanks, I think I have it sorted now. The Lynx fairing has a dedicated run to the battery and extra pigtails for switched and unswitched power. I tied into those for the accessories and hardwired the push/pull switch shut since I'm using the Sicass light kit. I'll do a write-up later for others thinking of combining those kits on the XC-W.
I guess everyone is out riding. I idled my bike about a minute with too much oil expecting things to settle in the sight glass. Shouldn't have been a lot too much since I still can't see where I deviated at all from the manual. But anyway, after draining to the right level and about 15 more minutes of riding, still some oil smell from the exhaust and a curl of white smoke when I shut off. Worry or don't worry?
How much too much....1/2 a liter or 100ml? Should not be a big deal if you did not rev the hell out of it. Get a measuring cup for changes, easy 1.5liters.
Cool. Had to be closer to the 100ml. Rode about an hour last night (pictures!) and the symptoms seemed to go away so I guess it's all good. Thanks for the answer.
Check your airbox, pretty sure the over flow comes in just below the intake throat there will be oil sitting in the btm of the airbox and spatter. Oil is'nt bad but it can foul plugs and carbon build up becomes a problem i suppose if its a constant.
The dealer here in Tucson gave me a deal I couldn't turn down. Thanks to the info here I went with the XCW. This scoot will be replacing my 300 and my 690, so it will be doing dual sport as well as single track rides. A couple of the wrenches at the dealer who ride 530's have had to replace their counter shafts. They suggest a cush drive at the rear. This just confirms my experience with a 525 and a Honda xr 650 r, both of which ate sprockets and chains when dual sported ( ridden on the street ) Anyone had a cush drive wheel built for your 500 ? I'm thinking a Rad hub. Twist it, Max
