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Old 10-29-2005, 05:25 PM   #1
lacrestadr OP
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Wiring hand warmers

What wire do I "tap" to install hand warmers for the 640 ADV and do I need to install a fuse? Thanks

lacrestadr screwed with this post 10-29-2005 at 05:36 PM
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Old 10-29-2005, 05:48 PM   #2
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i ran a power lead from the battery with a fuse right at the battery to a relay up front. then all accessories are wired from that out. gps, road book, grip warmers, heated vest, radio, etc... added a bunch of switches to the dash to accomodate all the added gear.

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Old 10-29-2005, 06:05 PM   #3
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I just did my XR day before yesterday. I also went from battery with a inline fuse to the switch. My main reason was if the grips shorted out I didnt want it to affect what ever I tapped from, ie no headlight or whatever. But I do suggest you get a lighted switch for the grips to help remind you to turn them off.
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Old 10-29-2005, 06:35 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onaXR
I do suggest you get a lighted switch for the grips to help remind you to turn them off.
that'll werk... but why not a relay through the ignition switch? then there's never a chance of missing the light.
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Old 10-29-2005, 06:51 PM   #5
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Laugh

That would work also. Only reason I didnt do that was I didnt think about it. honest aint I?
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Old 10-30-2005, 06:37 AM   #6
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[QUOTE=Loadedagain]i ran a power lead from the battery with a fuse right at the battery to a relay up front. then all accessories are wired from that out. gps, road book, grip warmers, heated vest, radio, etc... added a bunch of switches to the dash to accomodate all the added gear.

I like the idea of the grips going off with the key. Youy added the relay?? Where does the wiring tie in with the turning on of the key. Sorry but I need a bit of detail, kinda like you are walking me through dismantleing a bomb And the "ACC socket" Trevor spoke of, is that the place it ties in with the key??
Thanks for the help!
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Old 10-30-2005, 08:29 AM   #7
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i added an acc socket when i added the relay. so it is tied into the same setup.

1) run a power lead from the battery forward. make sure to mount a fuse as close to the battery as you can. that way if it breaks anywhere along its length it'll take out the fuse rather than melting the wire.

2) install a standard 15amp automotive relay up front somewhere. **what's a relay?**.

2b) ok now you've gone down below and know how a relay works i'll help you out a little with this a, b, c shit... on almost all (all good ones) relays there is a standard in terminal naming... terminals 87 and 87a are the high current power outs. 87 is the one that is switched 87a is the one you can tape up. terminal 30 is the terminal you want connected to your battery and fused wire. 85 and 86 are the low current electro magnet. piece of cake....

3) connect the fused battery lead to terminal 30 on your relay. leave the fuse out until you're done wiring the whole thing.

4) connect a wire from 87 on your relay to one lead on each grip heater. you're also going to want a toggle switch in this line to turn the heaters on and off. if you really want to get fancy you can put an on-off-on toggle with a resistor in one wire to give you a high and low heat option.

5) connect the other lead(s) of grip heaters to a good chasis ground. some guys will tell you to put your grip heater switch here. don't! if there is a failure in the element, or anything upstream you could have bad things happen.

6) connect a lead from terminal 86 on your relay to the good chassis ground.

7) here's the fun part. you need to find a switched +12v power source to flip the electromagnet on and off when you turn the key. you're going to need a multimeter for this job, or someone who has done it and can point you to an exact wire (i'll go find one later if nobody else bucks up). what you need is a wire that is hot when your ignition switch is on, and dead when the switch is off. once you get that wire hook it up to the 85 terminal on your relay.

done!

pop a small fuse in the fuse block to test everything (like a 1 amp), then once you're sure everything works well pop in the size to match the wire and relay (prolly a 15 amp).

if you ever need power for any other acessories you can jump off the lead hooked to terminal 87. no need to fuse anything beyond that point because you already have a fuse back by your battery.

**what's a relay?** - a relay is a switch that transfers high amounts of current on one side and is controlled by a low current on the other. when the low current side is energized it activates and electromagnet that pulls in the high current side. in the diagram below v1 and v2 are the low current side. the "common terminal "c" is where you want to put the lead from your battery. it's hot all the time... terminal "a" is hot any time your v1 and v2 are not energized (tape that guy up... you don't need it right now). terminal "b" is your switched high current power to run whatever you're powering.

relay diagram:

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Old 10-30-2005, 09:09 AM   #8
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Thanks for the great instructions loaded!! The heaters came with the hi/lo switch so I'm set there. Can the horn or headlight be my switched lead? Thanks again for the help!
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Old 10-30-2005, 09:19 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lacrestadr
Thanks for the great instructions loaded!! The heaters came with the hi/lo switch so I'm set there. Can the horn or headlight be my switched lead? Thanks again for the help!
your headlight low beam is on all the time the ignition is on so it would be a good one... horn would work too if you get in on the hot side of the switch... just make sure the horn doesn't work when the ignition is off.
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Old 12-08-2009, 01:17 PM   #10
Brucasso
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Question

Loaded,

I was wondering if you had a stator upgrade to run the electric vest? If not did you have problems?

I read Flannys electrical post http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82712 and many others about stator upgrades, 640 electrical, etc...

Is the stator upgrade required for heated vests and grips or just careful electrical management required. Looking at what heated grips and jackets draw, that figure is the Max it will draw, usually your not drawing the max all the time.. I guess the the vest can be run and not the grips and vice versa.

I know this thread is old, but hope someone can enlighten me.

Why did I sell my 950 and buy a 640???


Quote:
Originally Posted by Loadedagain
i ran a power lead from the battery with a fuse right at the battery to a relay up front. then all accessories are wired from that out. gps, road book, grip warmers, heated vest, radio, etc... added a bunch of switches to the dash to accomodate all the added gear.

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Old 10-29-2005, 07:10 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lacrestadr
What wire do I "tap" to install hand warmers for the 640 ADV and do I need to install a fuse? Thanks
A auto electrician mate mounted a switch in the dash ah la loaded's (except mine is a toggle with a label for on/off), via a relay from the back of the ACC socket on the dash, this also runs my GPS/Pocket PC, and is fused, we shorted it to double check.

We had already used the power from the horn to upgrade the lights to run both hi/lo when high is on, that would be another source you could use.
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Old 10-17-2007, 09:31 PM   #12
habanero
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I'm attempting to wire my heated grips into the ignition switch...can anyone tell me which wire is the hot? Red/white?

thanks, scott

edit...

got em working via the headllight.

habanero screwed with this post 10-17-2007 at 11:34 PM
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