Manual Labor

[Gusgus]

The Adventure may once again be ridden. How soon? It is all up to Fed-Ex now.

You see, I have accidentally screwed up my Adventure. Badly enough I thought I wouldn't be able to ride it this summer.

There was an hour or so today where I believed I could not fix the current situation. I thought it might take a year or two, to buy the transmission and components to get it back on the road.

How? By following the BMW repair manual. Yes you heard that right , following the repair/shop manual.

The pivot pins which hold the swingarm and final drive require heat, how much seems to be "the missing link" of information. The BMW manual specifically directs 212 deg F to remove them. Wrong! WRONG????? I knew the heat was at 220 degs for 45 min. before I attempted a removal.

The mechanic at TMS (John) told me to use a torch.. A TORCH? I asked.... He said the manual is wrong. I knew something was wrong. But the manual? How can that be?

I have 3 manuals, 2 published by BMW, all agree, 212 deg F. Waa? Friggin WAAA???

So anyone deciding to remove the pivot pins from the swingarm or final drive. Maybe a clear understanding of the "real" method should be found first.

It is far to late for me.

[kodiakfrank]

Sorry to here of your troubles Gusgus, but I'm happy to here you'll be on the road soon enough. Too bad BMW won't foot the bill...we all know how that goes.

BTW, I once distroyed an H60's rotating swash plate doing a bearing removal because the maintenance manual listed the wrong part number for the bearing puller. All said and done, about $150,000 in parts and labor . Luckily Uncle Sam picked up the tab and the manuals for the fleet were corrected.

[KL5A]

Pssshhhhh!
I killed $100,000 worth of digital publishing equipment using nothing more than electronic representations of 0's and 1's-yep I'm dangerous with a laptop!

Seriously Gus-that sucks. Did you bugger the threads? I have read that you can pretty much tear the threads, and the metal around the threads, right out of the case. Seems odd to me that BMW would engineer a machine that way, especially one intended for use outside of the dotted lines.

[Gusgus]

Well,,, yes!

I did bugger the threads.

But not all at once, it actually took some time for me to completely "bugger" the threads. And not just one set of threads.....

It all started with the final drive removal. An oil leak in the pinion bearing area facilitated the removal. Absolutely ruined the swingarm. The threads from the titanium pivot pin were galled right off of the pin and mashed into the thread boss of the swingarm. I found another swingarm.


Then needed to remove the swingarm and ruined the L/H threads on the Transmission case exactly the same way. Silly me, I followed the manual.

Now it should be noted here, BMW nor anyone has the Tap for a 24mm X 1.25mm thread. How can that be? A thread which is not common, or produced? Why would BMW do this?

[TRACTOR RIDER]

Boy, Gus that sucks. Hope everthing works out.

TR

[KL5A]

After hearing about this, I'm thinking that if I have a oilhead leaking oil.....


fuggit. It can just damn well leak it!

[Wheeldog]

Originally Posted by Gusgus

Now it should be noted here, BMW nor anyone has the Tap for a 24mm X 1.25mm thread. How can that be? A thread which is not common, or produced? Why would BMW do this?

Thats pretty simple......they want you to buy new parts from them everytime something goes wrong. Look at all the money they would loose if you could get all your spare parts up a NAPA.


It's a bummer when they do stuff like that. Honda had some odd-ball sized chain on the wifes ACE that was almost impossible to get. Hope everything works out well for you.

[JimmieA]

I just had an adventure with this part. I guess they use green locktite on this part. I had my bike in for an out of province inspection (after it was checked out by a BMW dealer). There was excessive play in the rear wheel (hands on top and bottom of tire) and the inspector was going to fail the bike. The mechanic had my copy of the shop manual but it wasn't much help. I showed him the copy of our Hall of Wisdom site and that was a big help. I also called the dealer that was supposted to have done the inspection that I paid for. Long story short the mechanic used a electricians heat gun, like a hot hair dryer, and got the sucker out, took about 5 minites on high setting. It is only 5 ft/lbs torque but it is welded in with this green locktite. I wasn't too happy at the time but glad how it worked out. We used red locktite after wards. I would have tried to power this out and done some collateral damage likely.