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Old 04-06-2008, 04:02 PM   #1
Hair OP
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Joined: Dec 2003
Location: Northern New Mexico
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Cam bolts stripping.

In the past I have had problems with the Allen part of the cam bolts rounding off.
So when I remove the bolts I make sure that my Allen tools are high quality with no ware.

But that didn't help me this time.

This is the second time that I have checked the valve clearance on my SE. This time I wanted to record the shim sizes so I could plan ahead for when I might have to change a shim.

I was using a brand new Allen tool. I held the ratchet head in place. But the Allen head stripped out anyway. The bolt didn't move from its factory setting.

So now I have a few months to figure out how to remove the bolt.

It really seems that the 950 cam bolts are unacceptably soft.
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:23 PM   #2
larryboy
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Sounds like you need to make a custom allen wrench. That's probably the best way to get out the bad one too. Take the next size up, grind each edge until you have to hit it to go in. Is there room to put the socket on an impact driver? Impact drivers are the only way to go for phillips and allen fasteners.
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:30 PM   #3
RED CAT
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Metric?

Metric allen wrenches?
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:32 PM   #4
ceeco
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Yeah...somethings wrong here?? I have not heard of this issue before. What size and brand of tool are you using??
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:04 PM   #5
kkug
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I wanted to remove my caps and then I noticed that I would have the same problem.

So my plan is to have a friend help me. As I am torquing on the bolt to loosen it up I will have him use a long punch of some type and rap it with a hammer.

I have been putting this off a very long time but I know that some day I will have to tackle it.
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:21 PM   #6
Hair OP
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I use a new metric tool each time. The tool fits about as good as one can hope for. That is why this brothers me so much. Those bolts just don't seem hard enough.

I like the idea of tapping it with punch. Anything that would get it going would be a big help.

From what I have seen of air impact drivers leaves me to think that that is not the answer.
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Old 10-17-2013, 01:15 PM   #7
veesquared
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Valve grinding paste

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hair View Post
In the past I have had problems with the Allen part of the cam bolts rounding off.
So when I remove the bolts I make sure that my Allen tools are high quality with no ware.

But that didn't help me this time.

This is the second time that I have checked the valve clearance on my SE. This time I wanted to record the shim sizes so I could plan ahead for when I might have to change a shim.

I was using a brand new Allen tool. I held the ratchet head in place. But the Allen head stripped out anyway. The bolt didn't move from its factory setting.

So now I have a few months to figure out how to remove the bolt.

It really seems that the 950 cam bolts are unacceptably soft.
When my allens show a little wear i will use air cutoff wheel and remove the worn area.I use an angle air sander and take off any burrs and make sure the end is flat. Try a very small dab of valve grinding paste on the end of the allen. Clean bolt head before re- stalling.
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Old 10-17-2013, 01:22 PM   #8
borborygmus
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had the same problem on the bikes first valve adj.(950 adv) I think Hans at the ktm factory can't hear the little click the torque wrench makes! I won't even tell you what I had to do to remove it!
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Old 10-17-2013, 01:37 PM   #9
BigTony
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veesquared View Post
When my allens show a little wear i will use air cutoff wheel and remove the worn area.I use an angle air sander and take off any burrs and make sure the end is flat. Try a very small dab of valve grinding paste on the end of the allen. Clean bolt head before re- stalling.
Good tip here - I think I my tools may be due for this treatment
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Old 10-17-2013, 05:13 PM   #10
GLRRA47
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One of the bolts holding the cam bridge down on my bike was bent. Obviously a factory defect bolt. Couldn't even fix it with a die. Apparently the person who did the first valve check didn't notice it and messed up more than one threaded hole. A couple helicoils later and a new bolt all is fine. Be sure everything fits together smooth. The bolts should screw-in all the way - pretty much by finger - then use a good torque wrench to snug them up. It's easy, once the bolt starts OK to want to go ahead and seat it- even if it's a little sticky feeling - but don't do it if it doesn't feel right.
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Old 10-17-2013, 06:56 PM   #11
pdxmotorhead
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Just a thought, if there is enough meat around the hole ,, look at threadserts instead of heli colis.. They are installed like a helicoil but designed for aluminum, they use them on the head studs of heavy power VW cases. I found them once through an aircraft supplier. They have a special tap with them and the threads engage DEEP they are Iconal If I recall so really tough but match AL expansion ..

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Old 10-18-2013, 09:29 AM   #12
Katoom72
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I stripped a bolt aswell and that made me buy new bolts for the front and rear, just to be sure id never run into this.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...320_154706.jpg
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