Rox Risers install on a R1200GSA

[longtallsally]

So there is a really good thread out there with good info in it, but no pics of some of the critical stuff. So I thought I might fill in the gaps a touch. This will be mainly pictorial. For more tech questions go to Jim VonB.

Here they are prior to install:


Before and totally stock:





Fatory switch removed:



Bars removed:



I must be an idiot as I don't think there is any friggin' way to get a torque wrench in there to get this to spec as shown with these:





Here is the initial view of the bars in place:



Taking the caps off the fork tubes:



Loosening the bolt and holding the bottom part stationary with a 19mm wrench (no one else mentioned the size). The upper nut is a 14mm. Just like everyone says, once the nut comes off the top, the fork just slides down. Easy peasy. And just as easy to get it back up.



Initial view of them in there:



Fork tube dropped:



One of the zip ties that had to be clipped close to the ignition key:



Another zip tie needing to be clipped:



My solution for the foglight switch:



I don't see a need to "fix" this any further as the only thing it does is make the key take an extra 2 seconds to pull out. The bike is garaged and I am getting to where I only use it on trips, so the key rarely comes out any more so who cares and it is totally stationary.

Rear view of them in place:



Pics of the wires and cables rereouted:





I'm not nuts about the wires hanging down like they are, but I think they will be OK.

First impressions are that for the first time on a bike I can stand up completely straight. I have not totally finalized the location just yet, but I think I'm close. I put a HUGE amount of weight on them (I'm 220+) and bounced a bit and they seem stable. I'll find out real world in a couple days up in El Dorado in the Sierras.

It's kooky as I feel like I've got ape hangers now, but I think it will by comfy- especially standing up.

I'll report back when I get back as to how they performed. Hope this helps someone out.

[Aussie Steve]

I've recently installed a set on my 1150.

From what I've seen of your posts you ride fairly aggressively offroad, can I suggest you take em for a quick ride on the rough stuff to check they dont spin? Mine do when I jump the bike, I am planning to tig em up when I have found a happy position.

Also I saw you post that you wanted an adjustable top clamp. I think touratech or wunderlich does something you may be able to adapt, very similar if not a quick release as found on bicycle seat post bolts.

Steve

[JimVonBaden]

Looks good!

You can torque them with a crows foot wrench on this:


Looks like this:



As for the wires, they should be fine.

If the switch position becomes an issue you could always buy the relocation clamp from BMW and move it to the handlebars between the ROX risers. That should give you a little more room.

Also, if you intend to move the handlebars regularly, you should be able to adapt the adjusters like Steve said.


http://www.bmwsantacruz.com/Merchant...oduct_Count=74

Jim

[GB]

Nice work! Thanks for the pictorial installation, should help someone else doing it in the future

What's with the surgical gloves?

[Longer]

Originally Posted by Gadget Boy

Nice work! Thanks for the pictorial installation, should help someone else doing it in the future

It's definitely going to help me. Took care of a fork tube question for me. I'm putting mine on this weekend if I can make the time.

LTS: Excellent write up with the pics!!!!!!

-- Longer

[bemiiten]

If you want to torque it with what you have, assemble the risers oriented far forward so you can access the clamp bolts with a socket. Torque 'em and index the nut locations. Now put the risers in the normal position and simply return the nuts to the index marks.

[davidmc]

Originally Posted by bemiiten

If you want to torque it with what you have, assemble the risers oriented far forward so you can access the clamp bolts with a socket. Torque 'em and index the nut locations. Now put the risers in the normal position and simply return the nuts to the index marks.

So you are saying I can torque these Torx bolts with the standard 12pt hex head socket/wrench? I didn't think torquing these with the hex head wrench was a good idea. Of course I don't have the Torx female socket for this bolt, hence the questions....

[JimVonBaden]

Dave,

Most of us replaced the E-Torx bolts with Allens, or in the case above, with standard bolts.

Jim

[longtallsally]

Glad to see it will help some folks out- this site has helped me a bunch in the past couple years, so I try to contribute when I see gaps.

Jim, thank you very much for the crow's foot idea. Man I really was tired last night! I didn't start until well after 10 since UPS didn't drop it and I had to go pick them up from the depot.

My only concern with the crow's foot, though is deflection to where the torque reading may be goofed a touch. We'll see if I buggered it...

Steve, yeah I actually ride the bike and this weekend we are going to El Dorado National Forest in the Sierras for a couple hundred miles in the dirt (put the TKCs back on this past Saturday). It will be mainly fire roads but I'm sure we'll find some single track to try to get lost on.

Thanks for the positive comments.

Oh yeah, the surgical gloves are b/c I'm getting lazy in my old age and sick of cleaning grease and grime from under my fingernails... Yes it looks silly, but makes things much easier.

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by longtallsally

Jim, thank you very much for the crow's foot idea. Man I really was tired last night! I didn't start until well after 10 since UPS didn't drop it and I had to go pick them up from the depot....

For the low torque you are applying, the crows foot wont make a signifigant difference in the values.

Nice work!

Jim

[longtallsally]

Well I guess it is OK. Is it worth the $75? Sure. I guess. Is it the best thing since sliced bread? Um, no. I like that I can stand up straight more comfortably and shift and such, but if this was more expensive, there would be other farkles higher on the list.

It's not that that quality is suspect or the like- it's just the concept evades me to a degree.

I truly feel like I am riding with ape hangers but it is no more or less comfy when seated. It might be a touch easier to get on the pegs, which was the goal, so I guess it is OK.

Would I do it again? Sure, and probably with the sense of urgency with which I did it this time- with little of it.

I'll find out tomorrow and throughout the weekend how they are when on some trails and such.

[Squirrel]

When you drop the fork tubes, does the front end of the bike need to be up off the ground with the wheel suspended? are you dropping both fork tubes at the same time?

[RoadRashed]

Originally Posted by Squirrel

When you drop the fork tubes, does the front end of the bike need to be up off the ground with the wheel suspended? are you dropping both fork tubes at the same time?

I did mine one at a time with the front tire on the ground. It seems the forks are just for dampening, there are no springs in them.

RR

[longtallsally]

Originally Posted by RoadRashed

I did mine one at a time with the front tire on the ground. It seems the forks are just for dampening, there are no springs in them.

RR

No you don't need to support the front end in any way. The forks don't even do damping, they more or less are a place to put the front wheel and allow it to go up and down. I Jat had mine parked on the center stand like any other time.

Oh yeah, I went got a bag of crow's feet thanks to Jim.

[akskyhawk]

Anyone know if the BMW mount for the Nav III GPS will fit onto the rox risers - or do you need to use a different mount???