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Old 03-28-2004, 12:34 PM   #1
creeper OP
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KTM LC4 clutch lock-out switch

The information below pertains to the US ’03 KTM 640 Adventure. It may also be of use to any street legal KTM LC4 model including the enduro, Duke and Motard... and possibly the 950 Adventure.

For almost a year now I’ve been pondering as to why my bike must be in neutral to start. Obviously, I haven’t pondered that much or I would have investigated the issue sooner.
Anyway, after reading the translated (?) starting description and staring at the wiring diagram, I came to the conclusion that there was a problem with either my clutch switch or the diode it is wired to and I should in fact be able to start the bike in any gear with the clutch pulled in.

I removed the fairing, hooked a multimeter to the two-pin plug connection on the clutch switch and saw no change in resistance when I pulled in the lever… Ah Ha! Bad switch!
I removed the offending switch and retested it (yes, I’m like that) and found less than 1 ohm continuity when I pushed the plunger in with my finger… Ah Ha! Good switch!

Apparently, after examining the parts, it appears that the relationship of switch plunger, the “bump” on the clutch lever intended to depress the plunger, and there proximity to each other was insufficient to engage the switch.
I could see no way to make the lever “bump” higher, or to extend the plunger, so I looked at ways to increase the depth in which the switch screwed into the clutch master cylinder casting.
If I had a mill, it would have been a simple thing to “face off” a bit of the boss (oddly enough, about .060”) that extends out away from the master cylinder casting, allowing the switch (and plunger) to go deeper into the casting, and the plunger to be in closer proximity to the clutch lever.
Instead, I used a hand held lathe, designed to turn down the necks of benchrest rifle cartridge cases, to remove approximately .060” from the shoulder of the switch.
This was sufficient for the lever to fully depress the switch plunger, providing continuity for the diode and finally… in gear starts for me. Ta Da!

I may be the only one on the planet that had this problem… but I doubt it.

Creeper

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creeper screwed with this post 03-28-2004 at 01:52 PM Reason: revision of applications
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Old 03-28-2004, 12:34 PM   #2
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A view of the switch and material removed (shiny area)
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Old 03-28-2004, 12:35 PM   #3
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A view of the master cylinder boss.
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Old 03-28-2004, 02:06 PM   #4
dagwood
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Mine took a dump and would periodicly "kill" the motor while in motion. Nada, not gonna happen again. thew that pos away. Beware if anyone else rides my bike, it will start in gear with the clutch out.
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Old 03-28-2004, 04:09 PM   #5
Frank Warner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dagwood
Mine took a dump and would periodicly "kill" the motor while in motion. Nada, not gonna happen again. thew that pos away. Beware if anyone else rides my bike, it will start in gear with the clutch out.
That can be a handy feature .. pushing the bike out of a river (motor won't start) and you cannot push it over a log/bump simply use the starter to get you over that hard bit.. not for continuous use though.

And Yes - the cluctch switches and side stand switchs on all of my bikes have been removed.. problems waitin to happen if you ask me.
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Old 03-28-2004, 04:21 PM   #6
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POS hydraulic clutch!
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Old 03-28-2004, 07:43 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dagwood
Mine took a dump and would periodicly "kill" the motor while in motion. Nada, not gonna happen again. thew that pos away. Beware if anyone else rides my bike, it will start in gear with the clutch out.
Yea, I considered bagging the whole starter "safety" package. I want to see if it all works for awhile, correctly, before I do.

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Old 03-29-2004, 06:15 AM   #8
Gary
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Question Safety switches...

My sidestand switch failed a couple of weeks ago on my LC4E, bike only has 3000 miles, but the wires take a beating under there where the switch is. Removed the wire and re-inserted the electrics source pins (under the seat) together and problem solved for that switch. Looks like I need to get a different bolt for the sidestand inorder to actually remove the (now disconnected) switch itself.

Anyone care to offer a quick rundown on removing/disabling the clutch switch on an LC4 w/cable clutch?

Thanks,
Gary
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Old 04-05-2006, 12:35 PM   #9
lost1
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clutching at straws...

I have the same problem with my interlock. Only starts in neutral (but don't need clutch pulled in)
Although I can't resolve it with conventional means in that the dude that had my bike before me removed the clutch switch (and all wires going into the fairing), stand interlock (I can trace that wire under the tank and its open).

Which wires should I connect to bypass the whole mess. I want to start in any gear with or without clutch.
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Old 04-05-2006, 12:55 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lost1
I have the same problem with my interlock. Only starts in neutral (but don't need clutch pulled in)
Although I can't resolve it with conventional means in that the dude that had my bike before me removed the clutch switch (and all wires going into the fairing), stand interlock (I can trace that wire under the tank and its open).

Which wires should I connect to bypass the whole mess. I want to start in any gear with or without clutch.
Wow! Pulled this one out of the twilight zone didn't cha'.



Number 40 is, or in your case was the switch.

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Old 04-06-2006, 06:03 PM   #11
lost1
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yep, here I go digging through everyones old dirty laundry, trying to pick up a bit of info, and then busted for dumpster diving.

not really related, but it is kinda funny
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/in_pictures/4884560.stm

thanks for the info, and the spaghetti diagram. Problem solved, now I can start and fall down like the rest of yous.

lost1
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Old 04-06-2006, 06:06 PM   #12
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When my switch fragged and died on me, I just cut a piece of copper wire and stuck it into the connector on the harness at the clutch lever perch, then plugged the connector back in. An elegant way to short the switch.

I never bothered to correct it.

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Old 04-06-2006, 06:08 PM   #13
rapiti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaspipe
When my switch fragged and died on me, I just cut a piece of copper wire and stuck it into the connector on the harness at the clutch lever perch, then plugged the connector back in. An elegant way to short the switch.

I never bothered to correct it.


Mexicanada?
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