ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Orange Crush
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-20-2004, 05:45 PM   #1
Katoum OP
Adventurer
 
Katoum's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Oddometer: 711
Gentlemen, remove your plumbing!!

While, its all old news now but I thought I would post a picture of just what comes off after a total SASectomy and Canisteronomy. Total weight reduction by goverment approved postage machine was 1342 gram reduction. This combined with carb needle raised, and fuel screws at 21/2 turns has for me IMHO totally transformed the way the 950 performs. There is no more sudden die syndrome after parked hot for a period, no more surging at steady throttle around 3500-4000 RPM and starts first time every time hot or cold. There's been a lot of discussion on how all these systems interact and what cause's what, but is no denying the fact it plain kicks ass with all the shit removed. As a side benefit with the Akro's it used to sound kind of like a H-D popping on deceleration, now mine is totally pop free and has taken on more of a Ducati sound, I like it.
PS I picked up extra Blanking Plates today so if you need some please read the post by doing a search on Blanking Plates.
Cheers,
Katoum
Attached Images
 
Katoum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2004, 05:55 PM   #2
motozilla
Beastly Adventurer
 
motozilla's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: PHX, AZ
Oddometer: 5,740
What are these things circled??? I don't recall them when I did my canister/SAS/EPC-ectomy....
Attached Images
 
__________________
Hey hold my beer and watch this!
motozilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2004, 06:02 PM   #3
Shuffler
Getting a grip...
 
Shuffler's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Location: Niwot CO
Oddometer: 1,672
Paul, those are Mikuni carb valves that are part of the canister system on some later model 950s (like mine). They're not worth shit which is why they need to be yanked. Some canister systems have them, others don't.
__________________
________________________________
AMA | COHVCO | TPA | NCTR | BRC
Niwot Synthetics
KTM 950A | KTM 300XCW | BMW R1100RT
Shuffler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2004, 06:26 PM   #4
Katoum OP
Adventurer
 
Katoum's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Oddometer: 711
These are called vacuum air valves to the best of my knowledge, and are located beside carbon cannister and under air box, they are found on all true 04 model for sure, they are the models with black rims and center stand included.

Quote:
Originally Posted by motozilla
What are these things circled??? I don't recall them when I did my canister/SAS/EPC-ectomy....
Katoum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2004, 07:42 PM   #5
jimbes
Adventurer
 
jimbes's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2004
Oddometer: 72
Thanks for the pictures. So is this a "true" 2004 model? Could you tell me exactly what you had to do other than rip out all that stuff? I've seen mention of check valves, and another post about running lines through the airbox and such. It's killing me that I have < 100 miles on my S in 2.5 weeks, and that mileage won't be getting any higher for a while, but when I CAN ride, I'd like to have the bike ready to roll. I'll probably even have my "free" bags by then. THANKS.
__________________
Jim
2012 BMW R1200GSA Triple Black
2004 KTM 950 Adventure S
jimbes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2004, 09:29 PM   #6
Katoum OP
Adventurer
 
Katoum's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Oddometer: 711
You may not want to do this if you are running stock pipes, as no one know the effect on the Coleman Catalizers. If you have aftermarket mufflers, please search for Flannys post on what to remove. Basically you vent the tanks, remove the carbon canister, and remove all line and hose that connect to the intake manifolds. You remove the SAS valve from behind the air box and remove the hoses and cover plates from the heads, then you place my blanking plates over the holes leaving the stock reed valve and gasket in place. You will need a K&N or similar inline air vent filter for crankcase, which will filter the atmospheric air to the carb vent tubes. Then you set the carb needles one notch richer, and turn the fuel screws to 21/4 out as manual states, and enjoy. If I missed anything I;m sorry, but it will be very clear once your in there. Allow 4-6 hrs so you will not have to rush, its not hard but you do not want to have to do it twice

QUOTE=jimbes]Thanks for the pictures. So is this a "true" 2004 model? Could you tell me exactly what you had to do other than rip out all that stuff? I've seen mention of check valves, and another post about running lines through the airbox and such. It's killing me that I have < 100 miles on my S in 2.5 weeks, and that mileage won't be getting any higher for a while, but when I CAN ride, I'd like to have the bike ready to roll. I'll probably even have my "free" bags by then. THANKS.[/QUOTE]
Katoum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2004, 08:08 AM   #7
Shuffler
Getting a grip...
 
Shuffler's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Location: Niwot CO
Oddometer: 1,672
Question

Katoum, do you have a part no. or picture of the filter you used to vent the crankcase breather? Is this essential right away, or can it be added later? I'm assuming it's a 2-way vent, as opposed to 1-way, right? I'm also assuming I can install this after everthing's back together, without having to remove panels, tanks, etc.?
__________________
________________________________
AMA | COHVCO | TPA | NCTR | BRC
Niwot Synthetics
KTM 950A | KTM 300XCW | BMW R1100RT
Shuffler is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 03:02 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014