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Old 01-31-2009, 09:58 AM   #1
Cummo OP
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How to service MD Roadbook?

I am in the process or preparing my bike for the Tunisia Rally in April and want to service my road book, it needs new belts and one of the roller bars vibrates like crazy, the vibration is okay but its one of those things you really hear on the last stage!!

Anyone have any idea how to service it?
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Old 01-31-2009, 10:48 AM   #2
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Hey Cummo,


I've serviced several MD roadbooks before, so I might be able to give you a hand...
The belt drives are standard seal rings. They can be bought at any general hardware store. Just remove them, and take them with you to the store and find ones a tad smaller in circumference (better smaller than bigger!).

Which roller bars were you exactly referring to? The ones which have turning knobs on the left-hand side of the RB? Or the one on the very top where to paper slides over? Or the motor driven one?

What you might also want to do is:
- Take apart the motor, clean it from dirt and sand, and grease it up again
- Roughen up the motor driven roll with the help of a lathe, as these tend to lose grip over time

What you must remember is, that the 2 knobs have 2 different threads!!!! The bottom one is a standard right-turn-to-tighten thread. Top one a left-turn-to-tighten!!!
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schattat screwed with this post 01-31-2009 at 10:55 AM
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Old 01-31-2009, 04:06 PM   #3
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You can buy a spares kit from MD which has the belts and bushes etc.
I carry a kit in my jacket pocket in case something breaks.
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Old 02-01-2009, 12:15 AM   #4
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Thanks for the reply guys.

Basically, I dont know where to start to get the drive bars out, firstly to replace belts and secondly to renew the nylon bush that rattles.

Schattat, its the drive bars that I have no idea about, do you drive them out with a drift/ How to you move the paper guides?

Starting at scratch on this one!!
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Old 02-01-2009, 02:47 AM   #5
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Hey Cummo,

First of all, don't use any violence at all!!
Everything can be taken apart with a few tricks

To start, you'll need to remove all 8 of the nylon caps around the RB. To do so, get a sharp blade and just jab it underneath them and slowly lever them out of the aluminum casing.

Next up is removing the drive shaft. You'll have to turn the motor (with the help of a 12V power supply), so that you have access to the little allen grub screw, which is located on the far right hand side of the RB. Just right of the rubber ring. Simply loosen it a bit, but don't actually remove it from the shaft

Now that's done, you should be able to move the drive shaft from side to side a bit. Since the nylon cap on the left hand side is gone, you should be able to push the drive shaft a bit out of the RB casing. You may use a little force here and push against the rubber grip on the shaft. After having pushed the shaft out of the casing on the left hand side, you should be able to lift it up out of the casing on the right hand side. Remember to remove the rubber rings of the rollers on the shaft!

Next up are the other 2 shafts, with the turning knobs.
As I mentioned in my previous post they both have 2 different threads. Grab a pair of pliars and grab hold of one of the 2 shafts. If you're doing the bottom one, you'll have to turn the knob counter-clockwise (unscrewing it). If it's the top one, you have to turn it clockwise, also unscrewing it as it's a left hand thread. After removing the knobs, just push the shaft to the left, and lift it up on the other side.

To remove the motor, you see that there are 3 flat head screws holding it to the case. Simply remove them, and remove the motor.

Also, you'll notice that the drive shaft has 2 so called "sprag clutches" on it, where the belt drives sit on. Be careful not to swap them around, as they are supposed to only turn in 1 direction, and block in the other!!!

The best thing to do to clean the parts (sprag clutches, nylon parts, knobs), is to get a small cup and fill it up with some sort of cleaning/grease-killing substance, such as petrol. Let the parts sit there for about 30mins, take them out and clean them off with a clean cloth. The sprag clutches should get a couple of drops of oil. When turning them on the shaft you may notice a bit of crackling. This comes from the the little dirt/sand that's still in the part. Oil/grease will help remove this effect!


I hope I was able to give you enough info to get you started. In case you get stuck somewhere, just write back, mate!
Good luck
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Old 02-01-2009, 03:12 AM   #6
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md

where do you get the MD kits from?
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Old 02-03-2010, 07:19 AM   #7
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Bump for ManxBerg.
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Old 02-03-2010, 07:46 AM   #8
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Another option as well: The Free 2 Ride roadbook from Portugal. Belts like an MD, very tidy design, looks like a genuine competitor to the MD for much less $$.

www.f2r.pt
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Old 02-03-2010, 08:54 AM   #9
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Thanks that is exactly the info I needed to fix my MD roadbood. The motor is a fiddly thing to take off, but I need to solder a wire back on. I possibly could have just taken the metal cover off, but it was siliconed sealed on and is easier to work on it seperate.
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Old 03-09-2010, 09:41 AM   #10
borsiin
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MD RB Holder drive belts

I have my bike shipped out for Rally Tuareg and too late I realized a pack of spare drive belts would be nice to have. In the threads i found with the search engine everyone just says that they are regular O-rings found at industry supply stores.

So what dimension o-ring should I ask for?
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Old 03-09-2010, 10:40 AM   #11
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From my records (collected somewhere on the internet):

1x 55mm diameter, 2.5mm thick
1x 36mm diameter, 2.5mm thick

I was also advised to degrease them well so they grip properly.
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Old 03-05-2015, 03:29 AM   #12
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I'm in the process of straightening out my MD for a two day rally coming up after I crashed at Safari on the last day.

My motor wasn't turning so I pulled it apart, the motor is fine but the output / drive shaft was slightly bent (the one the gears are fixed on and not able to slide off). I've straightened it now but I can't seem to find the correct way to fit the removable gears and have the shafts turning.

I might be missing something else thats stopping the shafts turning and is nothing to do with the way I'm assembling it but to help with the assembly does anyone have a pic of the gears in their correct positions ?

The offending gears, why so many ?


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Old 03-09-2015, 01:39 AM   #13
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I figured out what was going on with my MD.

Some pictures.

This was the state of it after my crash.



It took a knock on the motor housing which pushed it out of square. After I'd dusted myself off I thumbed the MD switch and got no movement at all so I followed other racers to complete the final 100km.

I stripped the MD down using the instructions earlier in this thread and then tested the motor which still didn't move so I pulled that apart by removing the two remaining screws. Once the motor was free of the gears it ran just fine in both directions so I pulled the gears out.
As I mentioned in my previous post the drive shaft was bent slightly, which took me a while to notice, I straightened it, cleaned up the gears and applied a bit of grease and then put them back together.



Hey presto it worked but didn't sound too great in hindsight.

I'd "panel beaten" the housing straight which was not too difficult and reassembled the MD.

Once it was together I tested it and it was all ok but I'd gotten one of the pulleys on the drive shaft wrong so quickly pulled it out and then put it back. Whilst I was doing this I heard a click and the shaft wouldn't turn after that.

So apart it came again.

The gears on the drive shaft, on closer inspection had gotten tighter, when I pushed the drive shaft too hard putting it together. Thats when the penny dropped........... that was the issue the whole time. When I crashed the unit took a knock and compressed the drive shaft which basically locked the gears against each other so they would turn but with great difficulty.

The blade of a screwdriver between the two metal gears sorted my "tightness" issue.



Wish I'd have thought of that sooner

So there you go. If you have any MD roadbooks and you think the motor has failed maybe its just the gears locked up.

Good to go and in the end all I needed in the way of spare parts was this $3 part.



Like a bought one / Job in the town as my old tradesmen you to say !



Hope this helps someone.

Neil. (a bit slow but I get there in the end)
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