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Old 05-12-2010, 11:36 AM   #1
rockhopper OP
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Cry help- need procedure from BMW manual for clutch

Hi all,

I fried my clutch on the 800gs on a muddy Welsh hillside a while ago, anyway got a new clutch kit last week, and have now got round to fitting it, took the side cover to find the old one - not looking too bad, a bit of overheating but nothing too bad




swapped for the new plates and started to put the side cover on....... now the problem, the clutch actuating plunger in the middle of the clutch on the bike has to locate in the socket on the cover in order for the lever on the cover , only problem is that the plunger bit doesn't seem to be going far enough in and when we are all re-assembled, the clutch is nearly out of adjustment, I have had it apart twice now and still the same result. I am hoping one of the inmates could show me a copy of the reassembley part of the procedure from the service dvd- as I am sure there is something not right here
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Old 05-13-2010, 04:03 AM   #2
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Well I would not have thought it ... but there appear to be several ways to screw this up..........







and .... as I have ALWAYS come to expect, the manual (Rev. #4) leaves me wanting more information..........

Right off I see:

Pic - 1) I'm not QUITE sure what they mean when they say install... wide/narrow drivers ... maybe this would be more clear if had the parts in front of me...

Pic -1) note the sharp edge of the plates goes IN ... not sure why this matters, and would not guess that this is your problem, but since you are in there anyway ... I'd do it like they say...

Pic 2 & 3) Note that some "construction groups" have a segmented thrust washer which might or might not be replaced with a NON-segmented thrust washer, or might be discarded completely as it indicates the new construction status does not use it?

It does give what I would call a "stack height" dimension well TWO of them actually ... 46.3 / 44.9mm so you could see if what you've got matches either of those.... If yours is thicker than 46.3 ... that would explain what you are seeing ........ If you discard the thrust washer it looks like the stack is supposed to be 1.4mmm thinner ....

Also ... note the F658GS has different shoulder washer bits......
I wonder if the spring preload is less on the 658?

Well I'm sure I've cleared everything up for you now eh?
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Old 05-13-2010, 10:25 AM   #3
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...just browsing through these threads and can only say that jrwooden is a great inmate.
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Old 05-13-2010, 10:32 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorrad-Carlsbad
...just browsing through these threads and can only say that jrwooden is a great inmate.
+1
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:58 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSL3 View Post
+1
Regarding JRwooden
+1
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Old 05-13-2010, 12:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorrad-Carlsbad
...just browsing through these threads and can only say that jrwooden is a great inmate.
+1
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Old 05-13-2010, 02:29 PM   #7
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PS: Thanks for the kinds words folks....
Where's the "blush" smilie
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Old 05-13-2010, 02:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden
PS: Thanks for the kinds words folks....
Where's the "blush" smilie
Use this one

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Old 05-13-2010, 11:05 AM   #9
rockhopper OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden
Well I would not have thought it ... but there appear to be several ways to screw this up..........

and .... as I have ALWAYS come to expect, the manual (Rev. #4) leaves me wanting more information..........

Right off I see:

Well I'm sure I've cleared everything up for you now eh?


AAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH

We will have a look- many thanks
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Old 05-13-2010, 11:26 AM   #10
JRWooden
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You're welcome Chris

I'd like some clarification myself on the segmented vs. non-segmented vs. "not there" thrust washer... if you find out anything let us know....

I think I smell a "clutch upgrade" for us F658GS owners i.e. using F800GS shoulder washers .... and to think that in the old days I used recycled crush washers from spark plugs under the springs to get a bit more preload!
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Old 05-17-2010, 02:52 PM   #11
rockhopper OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden
Well I would not have thought it ... but there appear to be several ways to screw this up..........







and .... as I have ALWAYS come to expect, the manual (Rev. #4) leaves me wanting more information..........

Right off I see:

Pic - 1) I'm not QUITE sure what they mean when they say install... wide/narrow drivers ... maybe this would be more clear if had the parts in front of me...

Pic -1) note the sharp edge of the plates goes IN ... not sure why this matters, and would not guess that this is your problem, but since you are in there anyway ... I'd do it like they say...

Pic 2 & 3) Note that some "construction groups" have a segmented thrust washer which might or might not be replaced with a NON-segmented thrust washer, or might be discarded completely as it indicates the new construction status does not use it?

It does give what I would call a "stack height" dimension well TWO of them actually ... 46.3 / 44.9mm so you could see if what you've got matches either of those.... If yours is thicker than 46.3 ... that would explain what you are seeing ........ If you discard the thrust washer it looks like the stack is supposed to be 1.4mmm thinner ....

Also ... note the F658GS has different shoulder washer bits......
I wonder if the spring preload is less on the 658?

Well I'm sure I've cleared everything up for you now eh?
right then, job done !!!!

took it all apart stared at the bits, compared it to the factory guide, may have had the steel plates the wrong way round ?!?!- sharp side out on a few of em! - the sharp side Vs the non sharp side is just the way the plates are punched out by a machine- if the sharp side is the wrong way it "may" cause the assembly to stick a little I guess.

the wide Vs narrow driver is to do with the drive segment of the friction plates..... the old one I took out had 9 identical plates marked 26g A5


the new unit has 7 plates marked 26g A8

these have the top drive sections approx 1mm narrower than the other 2 that are marked 26g A7


you can see the difference here

Vs


so you put the different steel plate at the back- really dont know why but whatever they say.

then one of the A7 frictions, then alternate with the rest of the steels and the A8 plates[all 7 of em], then finish of with another A7 but moved round one slot in the cage


the washers under the springs look like this on the 800, so you can have a compare with the 650 if you want





only other difference that I have found is the new kit came with longer springs- suppose a little more strength for the drive


Anyway it all works


many thanks for the help-
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