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Old 11-04-2010, 09:56 PM   #1
Krusty ... OP
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DR650SE Index Topic #4- SUSPENSION/CHASSIS

A lot of material in this category... What improvements have you made to your DR's suspension?


FRONT SUSPENSION UPGRADES:
-SPRINGS
-FORK OIL
-OTHER INTERNALS

REAR SUSPENSION UPGRADES
-SPRING
-INTERNALS

SWAPPING SUSPENSIONS FROM OTHER MOTORCYCLES

RAISING CHASSIS

LOWERING CHASSIS

SIDESTAND

MAINTENANCE/LUBRICATION
-STEERING HEAD
-SWINGARM
-AXLES
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SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
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Old 11-04-2010, 10:13 PM   #2
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i run the proper spring rate and intiminators valves in the forks
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468588

and a cogent rear shock w/ the proper spring
http://motocd.com/index.php?option=c...id=35&Itemid=1

unreal improvement over stock!
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Old 11-05-2010, 08:08 AM   #3
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Bump for the day shift...
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SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
"...choosing a DR indicates an affinity for peace, harmony and enlightenment. Serenity lies in accepting it as it is, changing what you want, and the wisdom of knowing it ain't orange." -psmcd
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Old 11-05-2010, 09:32 AM   #4
WhichWayNow
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I'm running Eibach 0.5 springs with emulators in the front. Eibach 8.3 springs with Sasquatch rebuilt shock in the rear.

The pig does not wallow anymore!
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Old 11-05-2010, 09:46 AM   #5
ShadyRascal
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Eibach springs front and rear, no shock mods or fork mods.

Big difference nonetheless in squishiness and fork dive. I weigh 195.
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Old 11-06-2010, 01:45 AM   #6
Snowy
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I tried the Gold valves and upgraded springs. I thought they were great at the time.

If you were going to do back road touring, dirt road riding, maybe some desert twin tracks, the upgraded standard setup is fine.

For a rider of say 140lbs or more, the standard setup is disgraceful. No real workable adjustment on the bike, it does have compression adjustment on the rear, but I could find very little difference in it. It went from really bad to just bad.

It would be nice to have some fork adjustment externally though.

I looked at a couple of guys bikes that had DRZ 400 forks with heavier springs and revalving. To tell the truth, the DRZ option still appeals to me. I have another DR (my sons bike that I have inherited along with the loan due to his newly arrived daughter) with the upgraded standard forks. I'm going to start using it to ride to work soon, so I might end up doing some modifications.

For my trail riding DR I decided to go with the RMZ suspension swap.

I chose the RMZ because I wanted motoX suspension travel and the adjustability. I have to say, it was worth swapping just to be able to adjust the compression and rebound front and rear.

Using all the RMZ parts unmodified was the tough decision. I wanted to make it so I could buy stuff straight off the shelf. So that meant modifying the frame to take the rear end. The first cut is the hardest. After that failure drives you forward.

For my standard DR I'm thinking of concentrating on getting it sorted using all genuine Suzuki parts, and keeping it looking as standard as I can. So I'm thinking DRZ swap. It will also keep it closer to standard height.

Ebay is my friend.

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Old 02-19-2012, 04:04 PM   #7
TheMightyQuinn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
i run the proper spring rate and intiminators valves in the forks
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468588

and a cogent rear shock w/ the proper spring
http://motocd.com/index.php?option=c...id=35&Itemid=1

unreal improvement over stock!
Eakins,

Could you please elaborate on the "unreal improvement"? I've got 20K on my DR650. Ride it hard on both street and trails. I'm still on the stock suspension with only the rear preload and damping set to near max. I'm 210 lbs and usually carry 10-40 lbs on the rear rack. About the only things I cannot do well with my setup are hitting big bumps (large whoops and jumps) fast, and keeping up with race type dirt bikes in the rough stuff. I'm considering the suspension mods you mention. Will these mods allow for fast riding in the conditions I've mentioned?
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Old 02-19-2012, 07:21 PM   #8
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ely243 View Post
Eakins,

Could you please elaborate on the "unreal improvement"? I've got 20K on my DR650. Ride it hard on both street and trails. I'm still on the stock suspension with only the rear preload and damping set to near max. I'm 210 lbs and usually carry 10-40 lbs on the rear rack. About the only things I cannot do well with my setup are hitting big bumps (large whoops and jumps) fast, and keeping up with race type dirt bikes in the rough stuff. I'm considering the suspension mods you mention. Will these mods allow for fast riding in the conditions I've mentioned?
yes. compared to stock i ride alot faster, but still not USD fast.
if you hope to keep up with true dirt bikes you bought the wrong bike.
go buy a wr450f as the dr is not a true dirt bike.
all the $ in the world won't make it KTM plush.
the DR is a japanese dual-sport from the 90s, nothing more, but they make great day exploring and adv touring bikes.


since i wrote that i figured out my fork spring (.50 eibach) is for someone aprox. 215lbs so i'll be pulling that one out selling it and getting a .47 eibach (175lbs)
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Old 02-20-2012, 12:20 PM   #9
TheMightyQuinn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
yes. compared to stock i ride alot faster, but still not USD fast.
if you hope to keep up with true dirt bikes you bought the wrong bike.
go buy a wr450f as the dr is not a true dirt bike.
all the $ in the world won't make it KTM plush.
the DR is a japanese dual-sport from the 90s, nothing more, but they make great day exploring and adv touring bikes


since i wrote that i figured out my fork spring (.50 eibach) is for someone aprox. 215lbs so i'll be pulling that one out selling it and getting a .47 eibach (175lbs)
Thanks Eakins,
The wr450s are nice dirt bikes but I rather doubt that I could have put 20,000 of the kind of miles (80-90 MPH for several hours at a time, two up exploring, touring) I have so far on DR650 without wearing out several of them and myself for that matter. The bike I need is a TE610/630, KTM690 or 950 SE. What I can afford right now are some springs and valves for the suspension to hopefully get part way there. I did not buy the DR to race with dirt bikes but now and again when the pace picks up on a rough trail ride it will be nice to have a bit more control. I agree that the DR650 is a great exploring and adv touring bike. I would add that its also very fun and fast on a tight twisty paved road. Did not buy it to race with sport bikes either, but sometimes I can't help myself.

I would be interested in your .50 Ebachs when your done with them if the shipping cost is not prohibitive. I'm 210 lbs and I use a 5 gallon gas tank so the .50s might be just about right.
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TheMightyQuinn screwed with this post 02-20-2012 at 12:31 PM Reason: Forgot somthing
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:11 AM   #10
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Suzuki designed the DR650 with a suspension that is changable, to allow the chassis to be lowered. The procedure is outlined in this thread: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=176223...

Lowering the chassis does require a shorter sidestand. Suzuki sells one, or the stock one can be shortened...
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Krusty ... screwed with this post 12-24-2010 at 03:01 PM
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Old 11-28-2010, 10:42 AM   #11
SkunkWizard
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Lowpeg

home brew lowered pegs required me to modify the brake lever.
this is my version





I added some spikies during the burn

If you have a welder and lowered you pegs and want to do the brake lever, just make the cuts and take it to a welder
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Old 11-28-2010, 11:54 AM   #12
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i guess this section includes footpegs.
i use those ebay ones from d2moto.
cheap, strong & work great!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuk...Q5fAccessories

procycle has lowered pegs in a full kit that includes mounts & wide pegs.
his design move the pegs down but not back, plus nothing protudes below the skid plate.

others make just lowering plates that move the peg down & back, plus it hangs below the plate.
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Old 11-28-2010, 03:53 PM   #13
BergDonk
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I posted this info on the big one, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...5295&page=2831 but thought it might be more useful for someone here:

Quote:
Originally Posted by danbeck
Out of curiosity, where abouts did you score the ohlins from? I've had a bit of a look around and apart from references from people saying they've used them, I can't find where to buy them Whats the damage? Are they hidiously expensive? Will I cry when my wife finds out how much?


I got mine on ebay after following Mezo's thread.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ght=mezo+dr650
Cost me $190 Aud delivered for one like on the right of Mezzos pic with a proper Ohlins spring, albeit a 5.1 which is a waste of time for me.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11102...SI%3AAU%3A1123
I have to add to the cost a new 8.5 spring and revalve to suit, and I'm also shortening the reservoir 5 mm to clear the FMF header where it joins to the tailpipe which may not be needed with a stock pipe. I may not have needed to do it either as I had 1-2 mm clearance, but while the shock's apart its easy enough. the shock clears the air box and frame easily. The total cost will be less than a Racetech or Cogent rebuild and will be superior due to the Ohlins body and inherent Ohlins quality.

According to my Ohlins contact, the 95,96,97,98 KTM shocks were 461.5mm long with 134mm travel. The DR shock is 455mm long with 128mm travel. This means that the extra length is also shock travel and bottoming isn't an issue.

The extra 6.5 mm length equates to 12 mm at the axle further away from the frame, ie swingarm droop. The DR swingarm ratio is 2.8:1, but it seems that at full droop it is actually 2:1. This results in the link just kissing the swingarm at full droop, but a little file work fixes this.

The top bush is 24 mm and the Suzuki is 30 mm. You can tack weld some washers in the frame, or get some more and smaller hands when assembling. Alternately Ohlins can supply a 30 mm bush for no frame mods and ease of assembly and this is what I'm getting.

The bottom yoke on the Suzuki is 30 mm between cheeks, the Ohlins 32 mm. You can easily fit 2 x 1 mm shim washers to fill the space.

I should have mine fitted later this week or next for testing. Ohlins are great because they can be adapted, valved and sprung, to suit many/all applications

My WP front end should arrive today

Steve
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Old 11-29-2010, 05:20 AM   #14
plugeye
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economy:
heavier PS shock spring from a member
fresh shock oil & nitrogen charge
for the forks, added 1 1/4"? pre load & fresh ATF oil
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Old 12-07-2010, 09:11 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plugeye View Post
economy:
heavier PS shock spring from a member
fresh shock oil & nitrogen charge
for the forks, added 1 1/4"? pre load & fresh ATF oil
I have a question regarding hard braking front end dive and a slight pull to the left on a stock Dr I just purchased. It's an 09 un-molested stock bike. I owned one previously and I know it is weakly sprung in the front I also had performed fork and shock up grades on it, ebach straight gauge springs and emulaters. I can't remember if this is nomal for the stock set up or what. Could the fork tubes be slightly tweeked in the triple or what. Thanks in advance
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