DR650SE Index Topic#13- PROBLEMS/FAILURES

[Krusty ...]

DR650SE Index Topic#13- PROBLEMS/ISSUES

Lucky 13... how about some bad luck stories . For such an inexpensive motorcycle, the DR has proven itself remarkably reliable. A few problems have been observed over the years. Some relatively minor, others catastrophic. While epic failures like the third gear problem are dramatic and troubling, they are still very rare.

Share your fixes, dodged bullets and, yes, your disasters...

-HEADER WELD
-BASE GASKET
-CAMSHAFT CHAIN TENSIONER (CCT) GASKET
-UPPER CHAIN ROLLER
-STARTER BACKLASH
-NEUTRAL SENDING UNIT [NSU] SCREWS
-3RD GEAR FAILURE

[eakins]

none for me

[Rusty Rocket]

I had an electrical fire in the main wiring harness. Destroyed the whole wiring system. A fellow DR650 ADV'r sent me one from his parts bike just to help an old guy out. Thanks Steve

[sagedrifter]

NSU screws do need to be checked, one of mine had started to come out. Wasn't even finger tight. Check those suckers!

I did the lock tite and star washer method. It was a good practice session to learn about the clutch too, mine was still like new. Then again I was only at 6K then.

[appalachian]

I bought my bike (a 99 that didnt have a limiter from the factory) from a gent who "forgot" to tell me about the boss that holds a gear in place explode on him and tear the boss in half, then he had it repaired (slob weld job). I found the repair after I had a bolt break off the fly wheel and proceeded to chew up my stator.

Instead of attempting another weld job that probably wouldnt last I decided the best course of action would be to bite the dust and replace the motor cases, I'd rather do it rite as have to waste my time and money (quite a bit by the time its finished) on a roll of the dice.

By chance you own a 98 or 99 model and havent put in a tourque limiter, do so ASAP, An idea of the cost involved...motor cases (new) $700ish (used)$300/$400, service manual $65 new, specialty tools (must have) fly wheel puller $80 the rest of the tools you can improvise becuase some run at $200 a piece, Gasket set $80/$160 (depends), labor bids ran $500 to $700 (main reason I'm gonna do it).

A lotta hassle and cash for a $170 part.

[71tr]

I have a 2003 with about 5k miles complete with leaky base gasket. Recall Suzuki switched from a paper to a metal gasket in approximately '03. The leak acts like a pinhole spitting tiny droplets of oil as the motor revs. A nice bead of high temp silicone has effectively taken care of the problem. I'm planning to take this bike through South America next year and have no plans to replace the leaking gasket.

[VtStrom]

Originally Posted by appalachian

I bought my bike (a 99 that didnt have a limiter from the factory) from a gent who "forgot" to tell me about the boss that holds a gear in place explode on him and tear the boss in half, then he had it repaired (slob weld job). I found the repair after I had a bolt break off the fly wheel and proceeded to chew up my stator.

Instead of attempting another weld job that probably wouldnt last I decided the best course of action would be to bite the dust and replace the motor cases, I'd rather do it rite as have to waste my time and money (quite a bit by the time its finished) on a roll of the dice.

By chance you own a 98 or 99 model and havent put in a tourque limiter, do so ASAP, An idea of the cost involved...motor cases (new) $700ish (used)$300/$400, service manual $65 new, specialty tools (must have) fly wheel puller $80 the rest of the tools you can improvise becuase some run at $200 a piece, Gasket set $80/$160 (depends), labor bids ran $500 to $700 (main reason I'm gonna do it).

A lotta hassle and cash for a $170 part.

THATS THE TRUTH!!

[Krusty ...]

NSU link- http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=592472

[ER70S-2]

The Neutral Sending Unit screws have been known to loosen themselves and find their way into the tranny gears, not good. Does not seem to be related to model year or mileage. It's a small percentage failure number, but a big disaster $$$ if it happens. After removing the clutch cover: remove, clean screw threads and holes, then Loctite or safety wire. I prefer safety wire.

So if your neutral indicator light quits or starts acting funny......

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=33543

mx_rob:
"One point though on the screw just gently falling out and settling on the bottom. The hurricane turbulence of the clutch basket and gears in the oil can easily sweep the screw up into places that would be a major bummer for it/them to be."

Like these two pics:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=49541
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=49542

Here's how:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...9&postcount=38

Thanks to LukasM, pics are worth a thousand words:

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=19784

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=19799

Mine only has the single blue wire:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=33214

2laneblacktop's step by step and NSU screw sizes:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=26847

The two NSU screws, the pin and spring hiding behind the NSU, looking to escape:
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=57707



TREE posted this, I think a good solution:

This is the plan for my NSU bolts . . . easy to wrench and then they will be lockwired.
http://i64.servimg.com/u/f64/11/94/64/62/bolts210.jpg

plodalong posted his idea:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=33685

Dyno:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=33257


The oil pump drive gear is some sort of resin/fiber construction, so I replaced it (at 15,000 miles). It's $19.94 and #7 here:
http://www.bikebandit.com/2004-suzuk...5873#sch502975

There is also a seal in the clutch cover I'd replace while in there. It's shown in the middle photo on page 3-42 in the service manual.
It's on the crankshaft page, #10 here:
http://www.bikebandit.com/2004-suzuk...5873#sch502988

[LucidMayhem]

I had my rear brake light shake loose at about 7000k and the Cam chain tensioner gasket leaked at around 5000k miles. I believe that was from over servicing though. Other than that, no problems.

[ER70S-2]

Near spark plug, starts here, with a few following posts:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=35690

Including:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=35695

And:

[NordieBoy]

Originally Posted by Ride-tell-sore!

NordieBoy I done did it! I put on about 85 miles and not a drop! Thanks.

Mine has lasted about 40,000km with the silicon on it.

[Ride-til-sore!]

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

Mine has lasted about 40,000km with the silicon on it.

Just got off the bike and put on another 150 miles today. Still no leaks! A little dab-a-do-ya! Lot cheaper then pulling the head!

[eakins]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
A lot of people strip those screws... they're actually not philips. They're a Japanese "standard" (I forget the exact term)... but if you look closely, they aren't tapered like a true philips.. the slots go all the way down completely. There's a special tool you can get to remove them, but it sounds like you already solved the problem. :)

Rob

-----------------------

JIS screwdrivers - http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcyc...-screwdrivers/
http://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JI.../dp/B005NIY3PM

the special tool for most is using a hand-hammer impact tool.
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...p-00947641000P
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...set-93481.html - light duty one for smaller fasteners.
i've used a dremel tool in the past with a thin cutoff wheel and made a slot for a flathead screwdriver to work.

later found out the trick, if you only have Philips screwdrivers, is to use the next size smaller one (so it gets the tip down in deeper in the JIS screw) and tap it from the top with a hammer. this helps drive the tool head deeper into the screw and also shocks the screw some to loosen it. if the screw is somewhat buggered up, from previous attempts, tapping the screwdriver in harder can work. often the steel screw, alum. cap & brake res. main body somewhat fuse together if the fluid has never been serviced.

here is a way to modify Philips bits/screwdrivers to fit better in JIS:
http://www.kzrider.com/forum/21-tool...rewdriver-tips

when dealing with the JIS screws on the floatbowl, the same technique can be used but often those hand-hammered tools is key. that is 1 essential tool that every home mechanic should have! once you have those screws out replace with allen bolts from PC, Jesse or the hardware store.

[eakins]

Start squeal noise and fixes
http://www.fy-yff.com/2011/08/squeak...-easy-fix.html
http://webpages.charter.net/jrandall...tarter_fix.htm
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=832297