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Old 12-26-2010, 11:18 AM   #1
Kevin 007 OP
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1974 yamaha dt360 carb

What Mikuni carb is on my 1974 Yamaha dt360a? Is it the 32mm?? Where can I find a rebuild kit for it? or a new carb for that matter...
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Old 12-26-2010, 12:13 PM   #2
Tosh Togo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin 007 View Post
What Mikuni carb is on my 1974 Yamaha dt360a? Is it the 32mm?? Where can I find a rebuild kit for it? or a new carb for that matter...
It's an RT, not a DT...the 'D' prefix in those days referred to a 250... as in TD and DT: all the 350-ish bikes were 'R's...as in TR, RD, RZ, etc.

Check here for parts- SUDCO
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Old 12-26-2010, 12:22 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Tosh Togo View Post
It's an RT, not a DT...the 'D' prefix in those days referred to a 250... as in TD and DT: all the 350-ish bikes were 'R's...as in TR, RD, RZ, etc.

Check here for parts- SUDCO
Then how come Yamaha refers to the 360 as a "DT"?
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Old 12-26-2010, 01:42 PM   #4
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Then how come Yamaha refers to the 360 as a "DT"?
Because things were changing at that time. I never said that the Yamaha model lettering system was cast in stone. Rules get bent, changed, or forgotten sometimes. In this case it may have been a marketing adjustment.

Even though I was there, I don't remember the 70's all that well, so don't press me for all the details.

Medium-bore Yamahas were TD250's, TR350's, DT350's and RT360's until the watercooled engines arrived here in ~1974, and then they all became TZ's or DT's. There was even a DT400 for a while.

Ask an old dirt rider what a DT-1 is.
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Old 12-26-2010, 02:40 PM   #5
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Now you've started something! My brother bought a '73 DT360 and still has it sitting in his shed - yup the old two stroke with the bronze tank. I got a chance to ride it as a youngster. I still remember the similar 250 & I think the 175 from the same year - same style but different coloured tanks. I decided to go to Google and plunk down the 'DT' & 'RT' 360 in the search window and I got the same pictures of the bronze tanked bike both time - though the majority of results showed the 'DT' as being the bike my brother has. So you might be right in your claim of 'RT' as being the identifier for bikes in the 350 range, but I'm not sure.....
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Old 12-26-2010, 05:39 PM   #6
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Yup, for a few years they called ALL the enduro's "DT's", it was kinda lame. Really, the model designations are as follows... JT=60cc. AT=125cc, CT=175cc, DT=250cc, RT=360cc. They even called the street bikes by the same letter design for a couple years, all two strokes were RD's, and all four strokes were TX's. Then they woke up and dropped the designation after the TX750 was a steaming fizzle.
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concours screwed with this post 12-26-2010 at 05:48 PM
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Old 09-18-2012, 06:44 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tosh Togo View Post
Because things were changing at that time. I never said that the Yamaha model lettering system was cast in stone. Rules get bent, changed, or forgotten sometimes. In this case it may have been a marketing adjustment.

Even though I was there, I don't remember the 70's all that well, so don't press me for all the details.

Medium-bore Yamahas were TD250's, TR350's, DT350's and RT360's until the watercooled engines arrived here in ~1974, and then they all became TZ's or DT's. There was even a DT400 for a while.

Ask an old dirt rider what a DT-1 is.
Cut my teeth on a DT-1. Great engine, handled like shit.
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Old 12-27-2010, 10:54 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Kevin 007 View Post
What Mikuni carb is on my 1974 Yamaha dt360a? Is it the 32mm?? Where can I find a rebuild kit for it? or a new carb for that matter...
You don't say where your at but if you are serious about getting a new carb, visit Vintage Iron. They can set one up to run right out of the box.
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Old 12-27-2010, 01:04 PM   #9
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A new carb would be crazy expensive. The Chinese copies don't work at all. These people have all the parts for all the Mikuni's. No kidding. http://www.sudco.com/
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Old 12-27-2010, 04:20 PM   #10
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A new carb would be crazy expensive. The Chinese copies don't work at all. These people have all the parts for all the Mikuni's. No kidding. http://www.sudco.com/
189.95 from Vintage Iron, plug and play.

Riding and maintaining these old bikes is not an inexpensive sport/hobby. If you want cheap, buy the chinese clones.
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Old 12-28-2010, 12:59 PM   #11
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Still not sure.....

I just got back from a visit to my Brother and we started chatting about his old Yamaha. He then pulls out the owner's manual and a period Clymer manual that he still has. The title on the Owner's manual said RT3 360 Yamaha, but he claims that the serial number on the case has RT1 stamped somewhere in the sequence. He was aware of all the confusion that exists with these bikes. It was too crappy/cold out to go out to the bike to give it my own eyeball, so I couldn't verify his claims. We then went to the Clymer book and had a look at the specification section. He was always using the RT3 references for his maintenance but then I flipped across to the DT360 part to compare. The DT360 had the 21 inch front wheel whereas the RT3 had something along the lines of an 18 inch. We go back to his owner's manual and there in the specs it said that his bike came with the 21 inch front wheel. Now he is scratching his head realizing that his bike is actually a DT360 instead of a RT3. I'm glad I've got my Beemer - at least I know what it is.
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Old 12-28-2010, 06:09 PM   #12
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that's crazy for a 30mm mik vm. should be $89.95

and 30mm seems awful small to me for a 360. i generally put 32's on 200, and 34/36 on 250's...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Armchair View Post
189.95 from Vintage Iron, plug and play.

Riding and maintaining these old bikes is not an inexpensive sport/hobby. If you want cheap, buy the chinese clones.
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Old 12-28-2010, 11:20 PM   #13
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that's crazy for a 30mm mik vm. should be $89.95

and 30mm seems awful small to me for a 360. i generally put 32's on 200, and 34/36 on 250's...
So you have little to no experience with piston port and early reed valve 2 stroke motors?

BTW, the price is for a plug and play carb, no trial period of selecting the idle jet, main jet, slide, needle, etc. to get the bike to run correctly.
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